[Hyrax]

Hi-

OK. I decided on buying a Sharp 9000. It would have been the Marantz except for the flicker problem. Now, I've a little money left in my budget so I could either buy a great screen or a Faroudja NRS (and a not so great DIY screen). I don't currently have enough in my budget for both.


I lean towards the NRS because I watch a lot of video based shows, I believe it will eliminate lip synch, and it will make wiring easier.


I lean towards getting a FireHawk because I know that it will really improve viewing movies from DVDs & HDTV.


So here I am leaning two ways at once. What do you think?


Thanks,

Tim

 

[leckian]

If you are not happy with your PQ once you receive your projector then spend on the Video Processor. What comes out of your projector is the most important by far. The Dalite High Contrast Cinema Vision is a gray screen with a 1.1 gain that might work for you and should be less expensive. They will send you a sample if you call them.


Lenny Eckian

 

[Harvey Luckman]

I have had the 9000 since Dec. When I first got it I used it with a Dalite Studio Tech 1.3 100 inch dig.screen left over from my Sony CRT pj.

I have not had the update and have really no lip sync problems to speak of(no pun intended) I am using a Sony 9000ES DVD player in progressive mode & RCA DTC 100. The DTC 100 is hooked both ways.RGBHV on input 1 and composite on input 4. No lip sync problems at all. It also looks better on composite then "S" input. The NRS does very little to clean up the poor Direct TV signal and does not improve the image on DVD. It still looks better in progressive mode right out of the Sony. Two weeks ago I got a 96 inch wide 16x9 Firehawk Velux,Delux screenwall. That made all the difference. Almost 3D like. Colors come alive and the image jumps out from the screen. FYI When you guys out there set it up mount pj at max distance to fill screen with no zoom. Big Big improvement in brightness and geometry.( More in brightness) So If I were you get the screen.The wow factor alone will be worth it.

 

[mooneycj]

I agree with Harvey. Get the screen (firehawk) first, it is sensational with the Sharp. Unfortunately, I have a small defect (vertical banding that is not a wrinkle) on the screen, and I will be getting a replacement. I've had a Sharp 9000 for a month now. No lip sync issues, no bulb flicker, just a great picture! Yes there are some "artifacts" that I occasionally see, but these are offset by the beautiful big picture it projects. I am thinking along the upgrade path to a progressive DVD player, then HDTV, then maybe a processor - in that order. Most of my viewing is DVD, and I think a progressive player is where I'll get the most bang for the buck.


Corey J.

 

[Hyrax]

I'll check with AVS about screens tomorrow. I really don't even know exactly what a plain Firehawk costs - all I've heard is that they cost 'thousands'.


I've got an old Sony DVD player made before progressive scan players were even a consideration. Perhaps a good screen and a good DVD player would make more sense than a NRS and a painted wall.


The throw on the Sharp allows me to have a 100" or larger screen, which I guess means that there will be no zoom on a 100" screen. Is this what you were suggesting, Harvey? Anyway, that is what I've got setup.


Am I right in assuming that I can put the PJ on a shelf on the back wall? I want to build a shelf in an attempt to direct the sound away from us. We're going to be sitting almost right under it.


Thanks again,

Tim

 

[toddalin]

"Thousands" is probably an exaduration. I just got a 4:3, 78" fixed frame Firehawk with Velux for under $1,200. I had a metal worker make a 4" high stand that the screen frame sits on for an additional $140. The frame has a 40" x 16" flat iron base with two 1" square risers coming up spaced 24" apart. A piece of "L" stock is welded to the uprights and the bottom is drilled with three holes. Stewart put three matching holes with internal nuts along the bottom of the frame and three bolts secure the frame to the base. As light and strong as these frames are, the base was overkill and could have been half the size, but does make a sturdy platform. This all sits on my center channel speaker with is 44" wide and 30' high

 

[Hyrax]

Toddalin -

Thanks for the info. From your description, I take it that your screen is free standing. Interesting idea.


Tim

 

[toddalin]

Yes, we have a back-to-back, side-by-side fireplace between two rooms. The fireplaces are each 4' wide (8' of brick on either side with 4' of fireplace and 4' of brick wall). There is a 13' high mirror over the fireplace in the living room (HT room), so mounting the screen to the bricks would have obscured part of the mirror (a no no for my wife). So as a compromise, I designed a stand and the screen sits out about a foot from the bricks (and mirror). If viewed from an angle (like the entrance to the room), the whole mirror is still visible, and the screen can easily be moved if necessary. BTW the center channel is about 30 inches (not feet) high and contains two JBL 15" woofers, a compression driver/horn, and a ring radiator tweeter. This matches my L/R speakers.


BTW, the angle iron that holds the screen angles up behind the screen. Because of the snaps and bolts along the back, you must leave 1/4" between the back of the screen frame and the "up angle." A flat pice of 1-1/2 to 2" bar stock would also work and there would be no concern with the space for the snaps.


I painted the stand black and my wife added white/grey/green streaks to match the sofa. I can take digital pics but have no way to post them.


The Stewart screens are so light and strong that they can free-stand if supported across their bases (at least at 78").


I designed and had my stand made up by a metal fabricator. There is no reason that Stewart could not produce a similar stand for the public. (Stewart, are you reading this??? Payola gladly accepted. Plus, I'm in Orange County if you want a look.) Their current stand comes off the sides of the frame and looks like something for a board room, and not an HT. With my fireplace, I could not have uprights on the sides of the screen.

 

[Jim Ferguson]

Stewart makes "t-stands" to allow floor mounting a screen. I have them on my firehawk screen. Kind of pricy, but they're nice and stable. They have a limited amount of vertical adjustment.

 

[Hyrax]

Thank you for the great idea. I'm going to think about this and see if I can just make a simple wooden shelf that I could bolt the screen onto. Having Stewart put holes along the bottom with internal nuts would simplify this greatly.


Also, it seems that this discussion is becoming something that belongs in the 'Screen' forum.

 

[toddalin]

Hyrax, know this,


When Stewart puts the "ravnuts" along the bottom of the frame, there is an exposed "washer" section that extends below the actual bottom of the frame. If you simply try to bolt the frame down, it will sit on these points rather than on the bottom of the screen frame section. While the screen will stand, it will not be stable and can "rock" back and forth. I put shims toward the front and back of where the frame is to sit so that the frame sits level on the shims, rather than rocks on the washers. Another way (probably easier and steadier) would to be to make the holes in the shelf/support oversize so that the ravnut washers could stick down into the hole. A larger "fender" washer could then secure it to your shelf from the bottom. (I hope this is clear.) BTW, the ravnuts use a 5/16" thread.


The noted Stewart "T-stands" come off the sides, and while sturdy, they are not cheap (about $280), they look like they belong in a board room and are not suitable for table-top of shelf placement.