When you start talking about screen materials in ambient light conditions, you really need to talk to a pro and not a newbie like me (but that won’t stop me from at least throwing out a couple thoughts for more knowledgeable people to expand upon

).
I would think that as ambient light increased you would want a higher gain screen and not a low gain screen like a gray. When the gain of the screen goes up, the light coming back from the screen becomes more focused and thus concentrated back towards the viewer. You want more light to come back at the viewer to compensate for the ambient light in the room that would wash the picture out. That is why as the gain goes up on the screen the field of view diminishes (meaning you have to sit more in the middle of the room). Since I have control over the light, and my room layout is going to be more of a pit rather than rows of seats like a theater, I don’t want to get too high of a gain screen or else the people on the sides (not perpendicular to the screen) won’t see a very good picture.
As I mentioned before, in reading other posts in the forum, when you have no ambient light the room, people seem to slightly preferred the High Contrast Da-Mat over the GrayHawk. But when ambient light was introduced, the GrayHawk was preferred over the HC Da-Mat. This is probably because of the higher gain of the GrayHawk.
Chris speaks very highly of the 1.3 gain screens. I considered one for a while, but, in my opinion, the Sony is a pretty darn bright projector (about 20% brighter than the Sharp). I was afraid that in my dark theater room that the image on a 1.3 gain screen may be too bright and start to cause fatigue after awhile. If you go to the movies and actually watch the presentation and not the movie, you will see that the image isn’t very bright at all. I believe theaters shoot for a brightness around 11 to 12 foot-lamberts (to tie in with my previous post).
And lastly, gray screens vs color compensating filters. From the very little I know about color and RGB, it is my understanding that the contrast/shadow details are in the red and the luminescence is in the green (which is why if you want to convert a color picture to black and white, you break it down into RGB and then discard the G and the B). Since I am told that the Sony projector really pushes the green and blue, it stands to reason that the green luminescence is overwhelming the red and thus the shadow detail. The filter pulls this back into line. I have no idea what the actual color formula is that they are using make these gray screens, but I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a little bit of red thrown in there with the black and white to pull out that shadow detail.
Other than that, I am willing to accept that I wont have the blackest blacks, but its not the end of the world.