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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My scenario/history:
First post, but have had a HT for about 8 years. Been browsing these forums for the last few days, still undecided on which paint to use. I'd like to roll on the paint, and understand that will mean not as smooth of an application. I'd like something I can mix together, and would like to limit it to supplies that are budget conscious.

Before last week...
I had a Sony VPL-HS20 projecting on about 120" wall. About 8 years ago I bought Screen Goo (or something like it, and rolled it onto the wall; came with a kit from ebay). No one ever seems to mention the reality of just having paint on a wall with kids, and if they kick a ball into the screen, it just wipes off. No torn screen, no stress any time other kids come over, but I digress...

Why change?
Projector upgraded to BenQ W1070. Much brighter picture, more vivid colors, pixels seem much tighter. It looks good, but I want to go a bit bigger, so that means repaint. Moving up to about 130". This allows me to use the existing projector mount because the BenQ has a shorter throw range. So it's the perfect excuse to go bigger and repaint. This means repainting the entire screen of course. (see attached picture (ht_which_color.jpg) which shows the old screen, with some of the original black felt tape removed, and you can see the old screen, the in-wall speaker that is moved and the hole, etc. You'll see I've just taped typing paper to the wall just to kind of get a feel for the size. This is just to give you a view of the current state.

What's the environment:
It's a basement, with a pretty flat painted drywall, but I'm relocating the in-wall speakers (no transducers yet MM) and I'm no pro. I'll have it pretty smooth but it won't be perfect after a few layers of sanding/filling. You can see in the picture that there's a return air duct/vent on the left side preventing me from going much farther there, and that's the junction box on the right.
Lighting: I have blackout curtains so I can adjust the light. I also have dimmable can lights (not the best, and in the picture you may see they're pointing down, but if I wasn't working on that area actively, they'd be pointing toward the walls, and only at about 5% power. Sometimes I'll have these off, but behind the seating area may be bright with lights on and other people doing other activities.

What we use it for:
Kids use it for kid movies, games (xbox, etc), watching general TV, etc in all lighting conditions including lots of ambient light.
I watch movies, and sports. Often if it's a sports game or a party the ambient lighting is brighter, so although I can control the lights to make it near pitch black, that never happens in reality.
BenQ is capable of 3d, although I don't think that'll get much use in reality. So I'm not as concerned about that.

So back to the main question. As I'm waiting for the spackling to dry it's time to decide on what I'm going to paint. Keep your suggestions to something I can buy on Amazon prime, or better yet, at Lowes/Home Depot/Sherwin Williams. If it means I have to make a trip to Michaels or Hobby Lobby, I can do that too. I'd love to have this done for the FinalFour this year.

So what paint?
How much?
How many coats?
What other suggestion?

Let me know if you need any clarification.
 

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You should check out some diy screen build's. I thought I've seen someone use spandex across a diy black painted wood frame. If you did build a frame out of wood you could staple fabric to the back of the frame and it would look nice. mike
 

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My scenario/history:
First post, but have had a HT for about 8 years. Been browsing these forums for the last few days, still undecided on which paint to use. I'd like to roll on the paint, and understand that will mean not as smooth of an application. I'd like something I can mix together, and would like to limit it to supplies that are budget conscious.

Before last week...
I had a Sony VPL-HS20 projecting on about 120" wall. About 8 years ago I bought Screen Goo (or something like it, and rolled it onto the wall; came with a kit from ebay). No one ever seems to mention the reality of just having paint on a wall with kids, and if they kick a ball into the screen, it just wipes off. No torn screen, no stress any time other kids come over, but I digress...

Why change?
Projector upgraded to BenQ W1070. Much brighter picture, more vivid colors, pixels seem much tighter. It looks good, but I want to go a bit bigger, so that means repaint. Moving up to about 130". This allows me to use the existing projector mount because the BenQ has a shorter throw range. So it's the perfect excuse to go bigger and repaint. This means repainting the entire screen of course. (see attached picture (ht_which_color.jpg) which shows the old screen, with some of the original black felt tape removed, and you can see the old screen, the in-wall speaker that is moved and the hole, etc. You'll see I've just taped typing paper to the wall just to kind of get a feel for the size. This is just to give you a view of the current state.

What's the environment:
It's a basement, with a pretty flat painted drywall, but I'm relocating the in-wall speakers (no transducers yet MM) and I'm no pro. I'll have it pretty smooth but it won't be perfect after a few layers of sanding/filling. You can see in the picture that there's a return air duct/vent on the left side preventing me from going much farther there, and that's the junction box on the right.
Lighting: I have blackout curtains so I can adjust the light. I also have dimmable can lights (not the best, and in the picture you may see they're pointing down, but if I wasn't working on that area actively, they'd be pointing toward the walls, and only at about 5% power. Sometimes I'll have these off, but behind the seating area may be bright with lights on and other people doing other activities.

What we use it for:
Kids use it for kid movies, games (xbox, etc), watching general TV, etc in all lighting conditions including lots of ambient light.
I watch movies, and sports. Often if it's a sports game or a party the ambient lighting is brighter, so although I can control the lights to make it near pitch black, that never happens in reality.
BenQ is capable of 3d, although I don't think that'll get much use in reality. So I'm not as concerned about that.

So back to the main question. As I'm waiting for the spackling to dry it's time to decide on what I'm going to paint. Keep your suggestions to something I can buy on Amazon prime, or better yet, at Lowes/Home Depot/Sherwin Williams. If it means I have to make a trip to Michaels or Hobby Lobby, I can do that too. I'd love to have this done for the FinalFour this year.

So what paint?
How much?
How many coats?
What other suggestion?

Let me know if you need any clarification.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/994372-black-widow.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should check out some diy screen build's. I thought I've seen someone use spandex across a diy black painted wood frame. If you did build a frame out of wood you could staple fabric to the back of the frame and it would look nice. mike
Yes I've looked into this, but going to stick with the felt tape for the outline. One other reason for this that I didn't go into is that the frame will spill to the junction/electrical box, so I'm going to have tape on the edge of the door to the electrical box, and it'll blend in pretty nicely. A wooden frame that has depth will make all that more apparent.
 

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A very light flat-grey or white should work solidly if you're afraid the wall won't be very smooth. If the wall does end up in good shape after the sanding, you could also go for a bit darker grey with some added metallic paint to keep the gain up.

All the stores sell flat paints that'll work fine on their own or mix well with metallic paint and there's little/no reason to pay over $10-15 for a gallon.

If you DO go the metallic+flat route, most of the major hardware and art stores have at least one suitable metallic. I personally like HomeDepot's RalphLauren metallic because it's easy to work with, tintable if needed, inexpensive (~$22 for a quart or $48 for a gallon), and it works well.
Lowe's if I'm remembering right sells both Valspar and Rustoleum metallic..I like the Rustoleum but haven't tried the Valspar.

To keep the brightness up around 16ftL on a 130" 16:9screen while using eco-lamp, you'll want the screen to keep 1.0gain. If you tend to use full-lamp or smart-eco, then you could likely get away with less gain..around 0.7-0.8gain.

The RalphLauren metallic mixed with a flat-grey at 3parts metallic and 1part flat-grey will keep 1.0gain while the color of flat-grey you choose to mix with the metallic will determine how much light it'll fight, viewing cone width, possibility of artifacts and forgiveness of wall imperfections and rolling/painting mistakes. The lighter the grey, the cleaner the image and more forgiving the paint but also the less effective it'll be for combating any lights.
Some of the other metallic brands (notably Rustoleum and many of the craftstore metallics) have to be used at a 1:1 or 2:1 (metallic:flat) ratio to make 1.0gain and a 3:1 could end up being too much.

BlackWidow can be a good option because it's not terribly dark, its gain is in a good place and it shouldn't be very expensive getting the AAA-fine on amazon.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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My scenario/history:
First post, but have had a HT for about 8 years. Been browsing these forums for the last few days, still undecided on which paint to use. I'd like to roll on the paint, and understand that will mean not as smooth of an application. I'd like something I can mix together, and would like to limit it to supplies that are budget conscious.

Before last week...
I had a Sony VPL-HS20 projecting on about 120" wall. About 8 years ago I bought Screen Goo (or something like it, and rolled it onto the wall; came with a kit from ebay). No one ever seems to mention the reality of just having paint on a wall with kids, and if they kick a ball into the screen, it just wipes off. No torn screen, no stress any time other kids come over, but I digress...
Awwww....C'mon now ! As if I haven't advocated the use of Drywall as a screen surface since 2003? And for all of the very reasons you mention, and a few you did not.;) I fact, I like to state that even a Beer Bottle tossed in anger at Peyton Manning by a Guest that puts a dent in the wall isn't cause of Murder (...perhaps a ass-whuppin'...)...because it can be repaired, while even a simple hard finger push on a Mfg Screen can leave a everlasting dimple.
Let's not even go into P&J fingerprints, Crayolas and Markers. :eek:

No...the main drawback is if the surface itself is worthy of the high resolution imagery, and does not introduce observable texture. So if your gonna use the Wall, and attempt to have a Screen worthy of watching with your new PJ, then do it right the first time.

So back to the main question. As I'm waiting for the spackling to dry it's time to decide on what I'm going to paint. Keep your suggestions to something I can buy on Amazon prime, or better yet, at Lowes/Home Depot/Sherwin Williams. If it means I have to make a trip to Michaels or Hobby Lobby, I can do that too. I'd love to have this done for the Final Four this year.

So what paint?
How much?
How many coats?
What other suggestion?

Let me know if you need any clarification.
Well....you best bet would be not to rush it. You absolutely must get that wall smoothed to virtual perfection....especially in the blending of the repaired areas. You mentioned "Spackling"....but I KNOW you had to be really referring to Drywall compound...because Spackling is for wee little holes....not major repairs. It will shrink terribly and crack once you put on paint and that paint itself dries and shrinks. Those repaired surfaces needed to be ever so slightly below the surface of the existing wall area surrounding them....Fiberglas Tape used around the edges, and the Center gradually built up with light coating of Compound. You want to put on two light coats before you start sanding. The edges of the second coat are carefully feathered into the existing wall (...DO NOT oversand the center just yet...) and the 3rd coat goes out to at least 3"-4" past the cut out edge....further is even better. Then that outside edge is feathered smooth using a Fine Grit Sanding Sponge...the Center is smoothed out (...not "scrub-Sanded"...) and then..........*


*...............then you skim coat the rest of the wall, and very lightly sand it smooth.

Do all that and you'll have a well nigh a perfect surface as possible. But now you must Prime...and with such a large area and if your Rolling....well I can only hope your rolling skills are up to snuff.

Apply a smooth coating...always working a wet edge. Better to apply a bit heavier a coating than to overwork too little, as the latter isa the primary reason people have streaking and roller marks.

After two Rolled coats of Primer, let the primer dry completely overnight, then lightly sand. Now inspect it carefully for cracks and pinholes, because those items will be painfully apparent later once you start applying any other paint except a Flat white.

If all is right with your world after painting....the decision on what Finis paint comes next.

For me...the decision is easy. RS-MaxxMudd LL. Everything is available locally or easily ordered for pick up at Lowes (Rustoleum products)

Your W1070's imagery will look best on Low lamp in "Best" mode, so you actually do need some gain above 1.0 going for you, and should you ever determine to watch 3D such gain will be absolutely mandatory. None of the sub-1.0 gain suggestions will provide you with the needed Gain...Contrast and Black Level boosting, a decent degree of Ambient Light resistance, nor retain the Colors & Whites that RS-MM-LL will.

To get all of the aforementioned...it's the only best solution.

If one or two ingredients are going to come in close to week's end, well you've got some Wall re-finishing and priming to do until then...so as I said...don't rush things. The Final Four will not be the only thing you will be watching for the next few years....so at the very worst case scenario, you can watch the games on a perfectly smooth, white Primed surface.

One last thing to consider....the Poly / Acrylic Rich combination within RS-MM-LL makes it imminently more wipe-able off-able than any mere "Flat" paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Uh oh. I used dry dex spackling(starts pink and dries white), not joint compound. Only applied one coat of it, and only in the areas where I patched the holes. (I did cut drywall to patch the area first, secured with drywall clips so I didn't have to cut it to go all the way to the stud, then spackle all over the face of it.

Should I not apply any more of it and go over it with joint compound? Can I leave what's there or somehow redo it sand it away first? Several coats of joint compound will get it nice and smooth... But you're only suggesting to skim coat the repair area and not the whole screen right? Just enough to blend it in over several feet?

Thanks for all the other tips guys too.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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I would sand down enough of the Spackle to be certain it's pretty thin, but not to a point where you start removing any under laying Drywall paper or tape.

You still must then apply the normal coats of Drywall compound....and get the edges feathered smooth into the surrounding wall. The further out the repair goes from center, and the better job you do at feathering, the least potential you have with seeing any "rise" or edge.

But still....you must deal with any differences in the wall texture vs the much smoother sanded drywall repair. You might be able to slide on by with sanding down the existing gobblety Goo :p and then priming the entire wall with 2 coats....(but first you "MUST" prime the repairs at least 2x to equalize things...) and then lightly sanding. It's a "maybe" thingee....I'm not there to make a definitive observation.

I do know that when I'm doing a "big" drywall screen on a existing surface I almost always accept that I will have repairs to deal with I cannot initially see. Such things often do not "pop" out into existence until I Prime...or worse, after the first 1-2 coats of finish paint is applied. If I have to do any type of repairs as large as the ones you had to, I ansolutely would skim the entire screen area to be certain that I would not see any variances in surface texture between Primed / Sanded areas and original existing surfaces.

Skimming is really easy. Fixing repairs should only be as easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Following the advice so far. Used the mesh drywall tape and switched to joint compound. Things going well. Some cracking in the drywall compound, but nothing I can't sand out. Probably did too thick of a layer.

After sanding and applying another layer, I plan to prime the whole wall, not just the screen area. Kilz is what I planned to use, partially because of the dark color of the wall.

I do plan to sand down the screen area a bit too before I do that. There are remnants of areas around where I had masked the original screen where the paint has ridges.

Any other thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: everything going smoothly, and getting smooth through all the sanding. My furniture is covered in dust. :)

Next step kilz the whole wall.

For rs-mm-ll, can you post the amounts here? I'm never sure if I'm seeing the exact mixture on other posts, or if it's an old version. Remember I'll be rolling not spraying.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.5 (for lower lumen pj's and controlled light home theaters)



20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver
12 oz. Behr 1750 Ultra Pure White Flat Enamel Interior (For even more assurance of Roll-ability, increase UPW to 18 oz. and Water to 24 oz.)

14 oz. Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
---------------------------------
This is the only mix of the RS-MaxxMudd family that can be rolled
 
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