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You need to consider the surround speakers are pretty close to all seats, compared to the front speakers.

The surrounds being maybe half the throw distance, and maybe not playing much in the way of bass
when you consider how have your crossover and sound management set up, have a serious advantage
over the front speakers to start with.

I also don't want a seriously dynamic surround speaker right on top of my seat. There's a significant risk to
that speaker standing out to the closest seat, and drawing undue attention to itself.

My preference is big subs up front, and smaller balancing subs if needed, to correct any nodal issues. I would
so take those mini marty's over 4 x12" subs.

I'd consider those C34E for ATMOS and surround duty. I'd much prefer a non angled face for surround speaker
duty though. They would get backer boxes of some sort, to ensure equal air volume behind the speaker.
 

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I would go Volts for surrounds and RSL's or Volt for Atmos/in ceiling in a cloud solution. Both the Volts and RSL's have wide dispersion. By textbook you will see people recommend that all your speakers (front, surrounds, etc) all use the same driver and have same capabilities but this is not always feasible from a money and room/functionality standpoint. I also question what content is actually mixed to take advantage of this as most new UHD releases are not taking full advantage of Atmos/DTS:X as it is today.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yes I've actually done this a couple of times and referred to them as clouds. The RSL ceiling speakers successfully keep up with Triad Platinums see the Brolic Beast project thread. The advantage of the clouds is you don't have to cut holes in the soundproof shell. At that project it was three layers of 5/8 drywall.
Jeff,

What do you think about using the C34E for all surrounds with inwall cabinets?
 

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I am using the RSL's for Atmos and surrounds - for a total of 14 - and they sound fantastic and have no trouble keeping up and integrating with my HTM-12's.
 
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Jeff,

What do you think about using the C34E for all surrounds with inwall cabinets?

the drivers are angled so wall mounting would be sub optimal from an Atmos positioning guideline. If you compensated in the column design and they aimed straight out maybe.


 

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Great! How do you have them installed?
I built backer boxes for the ceiling locations and put the surrounds in columns. You could also install the ceiling speakers in a "cloud" to avoid cutting holes in your theater shell. Here are some pics of the speakers mounted in the columns and ceiling. I thought I had some of the backer boxes but if I do I cannot find them at the moment. Lots of info on the forum for building and installing them however. Just keep in mind these speakers need a minimum of 1 cubic foot of enclosure space if you enclose them (according to the RSL founder).
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Thanks for the good info guys! Here are some updates with the platform completed.

Thanks again for the recommendation on the bigs ass step!!.... though I made it to large.... going to cut it down to 24” instead of 40” wide.

Also I took a photo of where my AV gear is going to go.
 

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the drivers are angled so wall mounting would be sub optimal from an Atmos positioning guideline. If you compensated in the column design and they aimed straight out maybe.


If using these for Atmos with a required wall installation, could you aim them up at the ceiling to get more perceived height out of them?
 

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If using these for Atmos with a required wall installation, could you aim them up at the ceiling to get more perceived height out of them?
It would be a game of angles and trying to bounce sound off walls/ceilings is really not ideal. If you have to do an Atmos wall installation I would mount some speakers to the wall that have wide dispersion as high as possible and slightly aim them at the listening position. How tall is you wall floor to ceiling?
 

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I wonder how hard it would be to rebuild part of that speaker, to create a flat face for wall surrounds???
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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A 13x14x14 riser was built for theater seating with 2 layers of R13 insulations. Going to install 3 layers of 3/4 plywood. (Bass trap with will be cut with 6 x 4x24 slots)
Man people always waste such awesome opportunity to have an awesome infinite baffle sub setup out of a riser firing into main seating and instead build some boxed subs and fill the riser with sand :( It makes me sad every time I see it.
 

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Man people always waste such awesome opportunity to have an awesome infinite baffle sub setup out of a riser firing into main seating and instead build some boxed subs and fill the riser with sand :( It makes me sad every time I see it.
Huh that is true, I wonder why people dont make sub boxes out of their risers??? hmm I will look into that. ^_^

Might be my solution for the next place I live in, to save space for all the subs just build them into one riser... hmmm... if it is doable.
 

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Sounds overly and unnessarily complex to me. I'll stick with my sand filled stage, big badass subs, and AT screen to
hide it all.

People don't make their sub boxes out of risers also, because who wants tactile feedback on some events, such as
male voices? There's also often an opportunity to have an IB sub, created out of an area adjoining a theater.

If one does any sort of tactile feedback, then I much prefer a 20Hz inline filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
So I went ahead and ordered the HTM 12 as I wanted to make sure I was able to set up the sound stage correctly in the front of the room.

But I am struggling with the surrounds.... only having a 12’ wide room with 107” theater seats doesn’t leave me with much room from one speaker on wall to the listening areas...

My thoughts are Volt 6 And install them about 3 inches into the wall on a shelf And leave the remaining 4 inches in a small 4” column....

Other option would be to go with an on wall speaker... Klipsch gallery - Axiom M22....

Ideas? I will only have about 3.75” inside wall space.
 
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