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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It's time for HT2.0, Wildwood Re-Deux.
Wildwood - a typical American subdivision.
The 'Re' in Re-Deux because the builder grade theater room has zero acoustical qualities.
The 'Deux' in Re-Deux as this is the second theater I have undertaken. Hopefully turns out as good, if not better, than the first.

135"W (11.5') x 216"L (18') 108" (9') height. Slope starts at 95.5" up to 108"

This is the Village Builders WentWorth Collection, Whitaker floor plan. Our house is the morror image of the official layout.
There is attic space on the back side of the screen wall that could potentially add another 5 feet to the room, however, would have to move HVAC ducting, waterlines, and add joists and rebuild support wall.
Left side of the room is the wall of the catherdral ceiling for the downstairs living room.
Right side of room is exterior wall.
Back wall adjacent to game room.

Plan A - Have 2 rows, of seating, utilizing a 20" riser with 2 seats and the equipment rack on the riser. Leave the existing screen wall in place, add RS&S into the all the walls, add wall treatments

Plan B is to knock out the screen wall and add additional length to the room to allow for speakers top be placed behind a AT screen. This add's significant cost and time, however, probably the best looking finsihed room. Addtionally, would add 1st reflection sound diffussors as well, up to 54" high.

Side walls are going to be torn down to add all speaker wiring and Roxul Safe and Sound (R-S&S)
Floor going to be cut out, install 2 layers of R-S&S into floor/ceiling, reinstall floor, Screw and glue, then add GG + 5/8" plywood

Riser - based on measurements, is approximately 20" high. similar to BigMounthinDC build designs that leverages Erskines designs. 2x lumber with dual layer of 5/8" ply, with GG. ports along back and side. stuffed with insulation. roofing felt on the bottom, isolated from the walls. probably will add a tube through it to allow for direct wiring from front seats for future connections into the equipment rack.

Door is currently a 36 in french doors. This is going to be changed with a 30" solid core door with addtional sound stripping and sweep.

Due to the limitation is side width at 135, and would like to be able to have a 4 seater up front and 2 seater on the riser, I am limited on installing hat channel for the walls, as this will consume some of the vital width space, and not wanting to sacrifrice the 4 seater on the front row, i am limiting the walls to only 2x

5/8" DD, plus GG. Not planning to install channel. The walls cavities will be insulated with R-S&S in the interior walls, and Roxul Comfort Batts on the exterior

Planning on a 14" wide soffit, treated on the bottom side with Linaccoustic, stuffed with insulation, with 3" recessed lights.

Mini columns, 3" deep only, sconces to be installed on the columns. stuffed with R-S&S. Give a nice 'theater' feel to the room with some columns and sconces. front columns are in the way of 1st reflection diffusors.

Wall treatments - From the floor to 54" high, will be treated with fabric wall frames with 1" Linacoustic. above that , just painted walls at this time. May add additional frames to the upper half of wall with only batting to fill in the frame.
Front wall will have 2" worth of Linacoustic, along with the project screen.
Back wall will be 0"-20" = riser, 20"-54" = wall treatment with Linacoustic, above that to add a sound diffusor of some sort. I previoulsy built 13 of the Skyline QRD diffusors for HT1.0, however, i was not overly impressed with the final outcome of them, and ended up discarding all of them. I am interested in some sort of 3D, polystrene, or some PVC style mold injected or 3D printed diffusors. Suggestions?

Paint - Dark Gray, eveything below 54" will be black. Carpet will be a dark gray.

Ceiling - Not sure if I am going to do a star ceiling or not. Not really sure if this 'adds' value. wow factor maybe, but that's allot of time for some light pollution. I'm getting old. Paint it one color.

Seating - 4-wide power recline. needs to fit in the space, so not selecting a brand. A well known seating company is just outside San Antonio, so I think i am going to head over and check out there selection. pick up same day, and drive back.

Rack - picked up a 18U Omnipoint RE18 rack from AlTex Electronics for just under 5 benji's. Should fit all the important gear.

Full Dolby Atmos, 4 speaker system. 11.2 speaker layout
Speaker locations L,C,R,FHL,FHR, FWL,FWR, SL, SR, SRR,SRL, TFL,TFR, TRL,TRR.
Debating on adding 2 more addtional Surround Rear speakers, as I can't get perfect Atmos placement specificatioin due to the door entrance into the room, so thinking of having multiple back surrounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Updated - 9-18-2019


"98%" Completion Photos


Photo Album



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Latest Gear Plan

Updated Equipment List 10-02-2019

SEATING
* FRONT ROW : 3 seat straight power recline Seatcraft Venetian's
* BACK ROW : 3 seat straight power recline Seatcraft Venetian's

DISPLAY
* PROJECTOR : JVC RS-2000
* SCREEN : Seymour AV Precision Frame F120 2.35 120" (130" diag) Center Stage XD Acoustic Material

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: Klipsch RC-64 II
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RF-82 II
* FRONT HIGH LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RB-61 II
* FRONT WIDE LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-41 II
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-42 II - Row 1
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-41 II - Row 2
* SURROUND BACK LEFT/RIGHT: Klipsch RS-42 II
* ATMOS TFR: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII
* ATMOS TFL: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII
* ATMOS TRR: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII
* ATMOS TRL: Klipsch CDT-3650-CII
* SUB1: Klipsch R-112SW
* SUB2: Klipsch R-112SW
* SUB3: Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (4ft^3 sealed)
* SUB4: Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (4ft^3 sealed)
* SUB5: Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Subwoofer and DIY Mini-Marty Cabinet (17hz)
* SUB6: Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Subwoofer and DIY Mini-Marty Cabinet (17hz)
* SUB7: Dayton Audio 18" PA-460 Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (2.7ft^3 sealed)
* SUB8: Dayton Audio 18" PA-460 Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (2.7ft^3 sealed)
* SUB9: Dayton Audio 18" PA-460 Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (2.7ft^3 sealed)
* SUB10: Dayton Audio 18" PA-460 Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (2.7ft^3 sealed)
* SUB11: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB12: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB13: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB14: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB15: JBL CS1214 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB16: JBL CS1214 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB17: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB18: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB19: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB20: JBL CS1214 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB21: JBL CS1214 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)
* SUB22: JBL GX1200 12" Subwoofer and DIY Cabinet (Nearfield)


EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER#1: Denon AVR-X7200W(A)-HDCP 2.2 upgrade completed
* RECEIVER#2: Denon AVR-X6300WA
* AMPLIFIER: Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP
* AMPLIFIER: Behringer iNuke NU6000DSP
* AMPLIFIER: Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP
* AMPLIFIER: Behringer iNuke NU6000DSP
* DSP : miniDSP 2x4HD 1st
* DSP : miniDSP 2x4HD 2nd
* DSP : miniDSP 2x4 3rd
* STREAMER: nVidia Shield 16gb

* POWER CONDITIONER: APC RM2SUA1500

* STORAGE: Synology DS1813+ (8x2TB, RAID5)

* REMOTE CONTROL : Standard Device remotes
* REMOTE CONTROL : Harmony Elite plus Hub
* REMOTE CONTROL : Fire 7" rooted with The Home Remote custom

* LIGHTING CONTROL: 2x Insteon 2447D
* LIGHTING CONTROL LED: 1x Insteon 2447
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Insteon 2441TH

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* DW2DW - 18' Deep x 11'3" Wide before remodel.
* Stud2Stud post remodel - 302" (25'2") length x 136" (11'4") wide
* DW2DW post remodel - 299.75" (25') length x 11'1.5" (133.5") wide

* Front Row: ~11'9" (141") from eye to screen
* Back Row: ~17'7" (210") from eye to screen

* CARPETING- Mohawk Silk Strand Midnight Black Triexta

FABRIC & PAINT
* Paint - Oil Based Low Luster Sherwin Williams 6258 Tricorn Black
* Upper Wall Frames - Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016, Color Wolf 2027
* Lower Wall Frames - Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016, Black Fabric
* All soffit and other panels Guilford of Maine Anchorage 2335, Color Onyx 2016

SOUND PROOFING
The room is above the kitchen/dining room . All drywall was removed and walls were insulated with Roxul Safe and Sound, 1/2"DW + GG + 5/8" DW
Cut out floor, added dual layer of Roxul Safe and Sound, reinstalled 3/4" subfloorr, and then added additional layer of 5/8" plywood & GG

ACOUSTIC TREATMENTS
* Lower Wall treatments of 1" JM Linaccoustic RC
* Upper Wall treatments of 2" OC703
* Soffit stuffed with OC R-13 insulation
* Front Wall 2" Linacoustic RC ( 1" Linacoustic RC + 3mil plastic + 1" Linacoustic RC sandwich)
* Front Side Walls behind screen OC703
* Front Wall Corner bass traps stacked OC703 floor to ceiling
* Riser full insulated with R-13 per Erskines designs. Ports cut to allow for bass absorbing.
* No stage. ceiling height prohibited stage

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* WAF A+. Budget D- Maybe sometime in the future. (Ceiling is Tri-Corn Black)

DIGITAL MOVIE POSTER
* 32" 4K - Custom Box build. Software provided by meyer64 on AVS forums. (Still pending to be built)
* Custom Scroll Sawed Acrylic Wildwood Re-Deux Marqee :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Overview Photo

Status 8-20-2018










Status 9-15-2019
 

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oh so you're almost at 100% then. Dang! That is really awesome. You'll have to travel up the N. Austin and help me begin mine. lol. I'm still in the dreaming and design phase. I wish I had your knowledge. This forum really gets deep.
 

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your link below fell out, didn't register or whatever. so you'll have to send me that again without the www.

bring it on my friend. worked at Dell myself for a short time. The wife did for 10-15 yrs or so. we're actually up 1431 away from Teravista going towards the Palace, in a new section of a subdivision right across from the water tower. Haven't broken ground yet but getting close. Still in the planning stages for everything.

I'm going to be doing all of the wiring myself I guess, since all of these MT stores want way to much money to do it. I've gotten quotes for 53-85k for all of it. Nah, for that I'll do it myself mostly and learn more about it. I can do most of it I'm pretty sure. It's the science of it all that I'm trying to learn.
 

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My plans are real green so don't laugh or make fun of me. I'm still trying to figure it all out. And I've just started working on my plans in detail. Like you, I have a builder. Mine's a Semi-Custom Builder so we've asked for a lot of things. But it too gets expensive and they were in such a hurry to lock us in we let them push us around and hurry us. Now I'm kicking myself because I really never got a chance to break it all down and study it. By the time I got all of my plans and such from them they tell us we're locked in to what we've already submitted any additions or changes now will cost $250 just to submit a change order, $500 if plans have to change and we have to pay 100% of the cost of the difference in the change. So I'm trying to collect everything that I want and hold on to it until the last. Or decide if I can do it myself. I'm going to be doing a lot of that myself.
I'll have to do it one weekend and have you and the wife up to spend the weekend and we'll work all day and hot tub it and party into the night and I'll smoke you some food that'll make even Smokey Mo cry with envy. Lol.
 

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So yes, I've been in the game for a little bit. Always been a movie junkie. My daughter and I love to chillax and watch movies together. Especially around Christmas. I've still got about 400 LD's and looking to add more when I can find them.
Our first serious components were purchased in 1993. And have been adding since then. Now I'm hoping to go all in.

My current HT is just a bedroom take over where I brought a couch in, propped the TV up on the wall, hung a few speakers all over the room and veg when I can. This will be my first HT design from the ground up. Just never had the resources before to do it what with so many kids filling a 5 bedroom house. Now just two are left and in college so the wife gave me one of the BR's to flip and she took one to scrapbook in. And now I'm designing what I want to be the love of my life. But I'll need all y'alls help to do it. There's just so much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Purchased the 30" door, left swing outwards. 1-3/4" solid core. Same style door as the rest of the house from HD. Should be here in about 2 weeks.

Would like to add additional linaccoustic to the door, similar to the GPower frames, or some other ideas?

I am hoping BigMouthinDC can provide some photos of the automatic door sweep.

What seals and gasketing would others recommend?
 

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I use the seals from Ted at Soundproofingcompany.com
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/product-category/soundproofing-products/door-bottom-jamb-stop/

You cut and install the sides and top first, then cut and install the bottom that drops a rubber gasket when closed. Its best to have a solid threshold at the bottom but I've seen it installed over carpet with partial success.

You can cut the soft aluminum with your miter saw. a regular wood blade will work, they do make blades for non ferrous metals.

This is a different brand but the video gives you an idea of the installation and operation of door seals of this type. They use butt joints, I use miter cuts at the top corners.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I use the seals from Ted at Soundproofingcompany.com
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/product-category/soundproofing-products/door-bottom-jamb-stop/

You cut and install the sides and top first, then cut and install the bottom that drops a rubber gasket when closed. Its best to have a solid threshold at the bottom but I've seen it installed over carpet with partial success.

You can cut the soft aluminum with your miter saw. a regular wood blade will work, they do make blades for non ferrous metals.

This is a different brand but the video gives you an idea of the installation and operation of door seals of this type. They use butt joints, I use miter cuts at the top corners.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2MTodSzfts
Thanks BIG! I'd figure I'd ask you on this as I know you've done these. I appreciate the info.
 

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so Big. You're sealing up the door tight as a drum right. With this gasket and all.

So the HVAC ducts (multiple) and with a return in the room and the door sealed tight there's no air circulating at all and this is ok with the HVAC system as a whole?
 

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So guys, are all Solidcore doors the same or are there special ones we need? For instance my builder says he's providing a solid core door, but should I be specific and ask for one in particular?
 

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so Big. You're sealing up the door tight as a drum right. With this gasket and all.

So the HVAC ducts (multiple) and with a return in the room and the door sealed tight there's no air circulating at all and this is ok with the HVAC system as a whole?
If the room has a supply and return you have circulation. Assuming the air handler is mixing air with the rest of the house you are getting the benefit of whatever fresh air makes it inside in the rest of the house.
Most often builder special media rooms have no dedicated return and relies on the gap under the door.
 

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oh I agree there. I was going to talk to him in our pre-build meeting and ask about extra vents and adding a return in both the media room and the media closet.

Let's say he refuses to do it based on the cost is to much. Isn't it pretty easy to attach to an existing one and run new lines of both where i need them?
 

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maybe I meant add another register? I don't know, do I need one of all 3 in order to regulate the temperature better in both the Media Room and a dedicated closet housing all of the components?
 

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Isn't it pretty easy to attach to an existing one and run new lines of both where i need them?
If it is accessible, like in an open attic. If you want more supplies you want to take off the main trunk, not just add a "Y" fitting, adding a Y just splits the amount of air you already have to two locations,
 

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right. good point. thanks for pointing that out. Yes it's all open attic above throughout the whole house.

So vent is the supply.
Return is just the recycle of old air, right.
The Register is the sensing mechanism to tell if it's hot or cold in a room?
 
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