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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just started building a box for a friend and have two of my own to build. I have a full size router I never use. I am thinking about buying a small trim router to use for the veneer edges when I get to that stage.
I also want to do round edges, mainly on the driver recess on the front baffle. Can this be done with a trim router or do I need a bigger router for this?
If yes, do I run the router with the rotation of the blade or against it?
 

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Just started building a box for a friend and have two of my own to build. I have a full size router I never use. I am thinking about buying a small trim router to use for the veneer edges when I get to that stage.
I also want to do round edges, mainly on the driver recess on the front baffle. Can this be done with a trim router or do I need a bigger router for this?
If yes, do I run the router with the rotation of the blade or against it?
Yes, it will work, but I wouldn't do large radii. Probably nothing over 3/8" r, and that might be pushing it. Take multiple passes if needed. Go against the rotation, otherwise the router will want to bite in and take off, and you lose control.

Best regards,

John
 

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Just started building a box for a friend and have two of my own to build. I have a full size router I never use. I am thinking about buying a small trim router to use for the veneer edges when I get to that stage.
I also want to do round edges, mainly on the driver recess on the front baffle. Can this be done with a trim router or do I need a bigger router for this?
Depends on what you're cutting. Hard materials (solid oak, maple, etc.) and/or large (above 5/16) round overs would be easier with a larger router/larger shank, but can be done with a trim router. I own 3 trim routers and 2 full-size 1/2 collet routers, for smaller work I prefer the trim.

Iron Maiden said:
If yes, do I run the router with the rotation of the blade or against it?
Not sure I understand this question. With either a full size or trim router you would run it the same way across the material (never had a router that didn't run counter-clockwise when looking at it from the bottom, clockwise from the top).
 

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I use a Bosch laminate trimmer and its good up to 3/8" roundover. Bigger roundover on speaker cab to me looks out of place. The trimmer is all I need. I used mine to build 20 cabs and cutout another 80 baffles.
 

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I use a Bosch laminate trimmer and its good up to 3/8" roundover. Bigger roundover on speaker cab to me looks out of place. The trimmer is all I need. I used mine to build 20 cabs and cutout another 80 baffles.

Does yours have the built in circle guide, if not, what do you use.

I have the Rigid and it has a straight edge guide. I looked to modify it to do circles but seems more trouble than it's worth.
 

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Yeah, was playing around with something similar with 1/4" hardboard that was in a shipping container for something the wife ordered. Was tempted to just spring for the Rockler trim router circle guide, but, for no more circles than I need to cut... the diy should suffice.
 

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I use a Bosch laminate trimmer and its good up to 3/8" roundover. Bigger roundover on speaker cab to me looks out of place. The trimmer is all I need. I used mine to build 20 cabs and cutout another 80 baffles.
Small round overs only help aesthetics, it's not until you reach 1"+ that it makes a difference in the way the speaker sounds. IMO, Gedlee's speakers look really nice with their large round overs: https://www.google.com/search?q=ged...wTdvYGwCA#tbm=isch&q=gedlee+speakers&imgdii=_
 

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I'm trying to decide which size roundover to do on the cabs I just built. I have a 1/2" bit and did a test strip on a random piece of plywood and held it up to my commercial SVS sub and the roundovers look pretty much the same. Does anyone know if SVS uses 1/2" roundover standard on their cabs? Not sure if I should just use the bit I have or buy a slightly smaller one. I guess I could do the bottom of the cabs with the 1/2" and see how it looks and if I feel it's too big score a smaller bit to do the top/sides?
 

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I'm trying to decide which size roundover to do on the cabs I just built. I have a 1/2" bit and did a test strip on a random piece of plywood and held it up to my commercial SVS sub and the roundovers look pretty much the same. Does anyone know if SVS uses 1/2" roundover standard on their cabs? Not sure if I should just use the bit I have or buy a slightly smaller one. I guess I could do the bottom of the cabs with the 1/2" and see how it looks and if I feel it's too big score a smaller bit to do the top/sides?
To go smaller just lower the bit a little... No need to get a new bit.
 

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Roundover. Will lineup. Just do top edge all from same surface. I usually lightly hand sand roundover as well.
I see what you're saying, I just feel like it won't be an even roundover then... like if I have the router on the top of the box I would think the top edge would round less than the front edge that it joins to.

I suppose I can do this on the bottom of the box first just for peace of mind that it will look good on all of the visible areas.
 

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I see what you're saying, I just feel like it won't be an even roundover then... like if I have the router on the top of the box I would think the top edge would round less than the front edge that it joins to.

I suppose I can do this on the bottom of the box first just for peace of mind that it will look good on all of the visible areas.
Done probably 1000 roundovers and light sanding and never been unhappy . remember to go proper direction so you don't tear out grain. Even mdf will be better in one direction .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So which option is correct? I'm assuming you would choose to go counter clockwise. As in option A ?????


 

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