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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the Sony HT-DDW660 Home Theater System and have bought a better sub than what comes with this set up. It is the yst-sw215 what I am wondering is can I hook up both subs (the one that came with it and the yst-sw215 into the same subwoofer slot off of the back of the reciever????


The sub that came with this set up does not plug into the wall and the one that I just bought does. Will I hurt my reciever in any way if I have two subs coming from one Slot from the back of the reciever??? :confused: :confused:
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikdogs117
The sub that came with this set up does not plug into the wall and the one that I just bought does.
Danger Will Robinson! It sounds like your old sub is being driven by the amp in your HTIB receiver. I'm not familar with the your HTIB - can you find links on the Sony site for the manual or a picture of the back of the receiver? Don't hook them both up - and be careful how you hook-up the new sub, I wouldn't do it until you understand how to connect it correctly.
 

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Agreed. The fact that the HTIB sub is being powered from the reciever may mean that the connection is carrying both line voltage as well as the audio signal. That could be a really dangerous combination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't know any better so I have had the new sub hooked up for about 2 months now and there are no problems. (THANKFULLY) But should I be worried if it has been working fine for this long.



I am sure you guys would have figured this out but the reciever is on the bottom and the dvd/vhs is on top


Any info on whether I am going to be able to hook up my other sub woofer will be greatly appreciated. thanks
 

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OK - it looks like the htib uses a passive sub connected via speaker-level connections. That's unfortunate, as it means you are bypassing the new sub's power amp - and therefore you aren't getting all the benefit out of your new sub.


I would NOT hook both subs up to your receiver - the htib receiver's amp just isn't going to be up to the task. Personally, I would be looking to replace the receiver with something that has a little more flexible connections (which would be ANYTHING not in the HTIB category).
 

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If in fact the original sub is being fed with speaker level signals and you have found a LFE output that takes an RCA male connector, then yes you could fed that low level signal to a powered sub woofer. How that would sound along with the current sub is a good question, since you would introduce phasing and room placement issues. But you won't hurt anything by trying. If you get a decent powered sub woofer (one that plugs into the wall to fee a built in power amp) then I would imagine the best results would be obtained by simply disconnecting the original sub and just using the new one.
 

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Thomas - did you look at the picture of the back of the receiver the OP posted? There is no LFE output on his receiver!
 

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If there is no LFE output, then using a powered sub woofer is out of the question. I mistakenly assumed that such an output existed. With no such output then only a passive subwoofer (or the speaker level inputs of a powered sub) could be used. Since the output of the receiver in question is probably minimal then I would not recommend trying to upgrade the sub. These HTIB systems are meant to be played as they come out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendy
The YST SW215 has speaker level inputs so you can use it.Refer to the owners book.


Yes I know that the yst sub has speaker inputs. That is how I have it hooked up to my surround sound receiver. It is working fine and it really bumps my small living room. My reasoning for these posts was to see if I can hook up the sub that came with the HTIB along with the YST. People are telling me NO so I guess I will just stick with the NEW sub that is already hooked up.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikdogs117
Yes I know that the yst sub has speaker inputs. That is how I have it hooked up to my surround sound receiver. It is working fine and it really bumps my small living room. My reasoning for these posts was to see if I can hook up the sub that came with the HTIB along with the YST. People are telling me NO so I guess I will just stick with the NEW sub that is already hooked up.
Since the yst sub is powered, and presumably you have no speakers on its outputs, this will only present a high impedance load to the sub speaker out terminals on the HTIB receiver, as the sub is beign powered by it's internal amplifier. This is the proper way to hook it up as long as you have the xover set to the highest freuency or disabled. If you want to hook up the original sub, you should be able to do so in parallel without worrys, as the receiver will see only a very slightly lower impedance tan it was designed to. However, assuming the new sub is more capable, unless you really know how to position the second sub, to avoid phase issues, doing so will probably do more harm than good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by wleehendrick
Since the yst sub is powered, and presumably you have no speakers on its outputs, this will only present a high impedance load to the sub speaker out terminals on the HTIB receiver, as the sub is beign powered by it's internal amplifier. This is the proper way to hook it up as long as you have the xover set to the highest freuency or disabled. If you want to hook up the original sub, you should be able to do so in parallel without worrys, as the receiver will see only a very slightly lower impedance tan it was designed to. However, assuming the new sub is more capable, unless you really know how to position the second sub, to avoid phase issues, doing so will probably do more harm than good.


If I do want to hook up both subs do I have to have a Y connector?? Can I just use the same outlet for both sets of speaker wires???
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikdogs117
If I do want to hook up both subs do I have to have a Y connector?? Can I just use the same outlet for both sets of speaker wires???
Since you're using the speaker connections, no fancy shielded y connector is needed, as would be for an interconnect. To run the lines in parallel, attach both + leads of each sub to the + lead of the receiver, similar for the - leads. If the receiver has large binding post connectors, you can probably attach both directly, but if it has a small spring clips, you'll probably be better to simply splice a short lead of speaker wire onto the ends.
 

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I think this would be a very big mistake. The HTIB receiver's amp is not intended to drive two subs. A sub requires much more power than the satellites and two is almost assuradly going to be too many. In addition, depending on the impedence of the subs, connecting them in either parallel or serial could be driving the amp well outside it's intended impedence range which could either overheat and damage your amp (impedence too low), or significantly reduce the amp's available power (impedence too high). If you want more & better sound than your htib is providing, save your money and dump the htib, then buy a "real" AV receiver and speakers.


Proceed along your current path at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
alright guys I am going to just stay with the new sub that I got it will do the trick. The other sub will have to just sit there and look good. I am scared to mess anything up and that is weighing on my decision. THanks for all of the information. You guys are awesome!!!!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob_jcv
I think this would be a very big mistake. The HTIB receiver's amp is not intended to drive two subs. A sub requires much more power than the satellites and two is almost assuradly going to be too many. In addition, depending on the impedence of the subs, connecting them in either parallel or serial could be driving the amp well outside it's intended impedence range which could either overheat and damage your amp (impedence too low), or significantly reduce the amp's available power (impedence too high). If you want more & better sound than your htib is providing, save your money and dump the htib, then buy a "real" AV receiver and speakers.


Proceed along your current path at your own risk.
Yes, two passive subs in parallel would lower the impeadance, but his new sub is powered. If it's like all powered subs I've seen, even if connected to the speaker connections, it is still driven by its internal power amp, not the receiver. Without any speakers connected to its outputs, it will present a high impeadance load. The speaker level inputs feed the power amp, with less volatage gain that the line level inputs; they do not lead directly to the driver. Wired in parallel with the original sub, the impedance will not be significantly lower than the passive by itself. However, as I stated before, I don't think this is good idea, as a single good sub is better by itself than with a wimpy sub piggy-backed on top of it.
 

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Thanks wleehendrick - You are right - I was confused on the way powered subs implement the speaker-level inputs.
 

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I disagree that the powered sub woofer uses the amp for speaker level input. The amp only is used to amplify the 75 ohm signal input from the LFE output (which this receiver does not have). Feeding both sub woofers will effectively lower the speaker impedance by half and will most likely cause the receiver to go into protective mode when speaker current demands outpace the output of the receiver.


You can hook both up and try this, but you will gain no advantage trying to feed two subs with the same amount of power available to only one. Most likely the receiver will shut down when driven too hard, but its protective circuit should prevent any damage.
 

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There's nothing like receiving two opinions that are exactly 180 deg apart. :)


If the speaker level inputs are connected directly to the driver, then shouldn't the sub specs show the impedence of the sub when using speaker level inputs? I don't recall seeing this in typical powered sub specs??


Here's an excerpt from the Hsu VTF-3 manual:
Quote:
If your system does not have a SUBWOOFER or LFE output (for example, stereo-only integrated amps or older Dolby Pro Logic receivers) you can use the HIGH LEVEL speaker outputs. The subwoofer taps the signal from the controller’s amplifier, letting the subwoofer reproduce the bass of the left and right channels. This method is also called bass augmentation. Since the subwoofer uses its own amplifier there is no noticeable drain on your main amplifier.
And here is a similar excerpt from the Velodyne DLS manual:
Quote:
Your new subwoofer is equipped with both speaker-level and line-level inputs. Use the RCA/Phono type "INPUT" jacks when connecting your subwoofer to a pre-amp, signal processor, or line-level crossover. The "SPEAKER LEVEL-INPUT" jacks connect directly to the speaker outputs of a integrated amplifier or receiver. Your amplifier section will notice no

additional loading effects when you use these inputs because of their high impedance.
Maybe some subs are and some aren't?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob_jcv
There's nothing like receiving two opinions that are exactly 180 deg apart. :)


If the speaker level inputs are connected directly to the driver, then shouldn't the sub specs show the impedence of the sub when using speaker level inputs? I don't recall seeing this in typical powered sub specs??


Here's an excerpt from the Hsu VTF-3 manual:



And here is a similar excerpt from the Velodyne DLS manual:



Maybe some subs are and some aren't?
Billybob, I'm glad we agree now! Thanks for the references; this is exactly what I was saying. There may be some active subs that are passive when connected to the speaker inputs, but I've never seen one, and can't see the market for one. If you only want a passive sub why pay for the amp?!?


So, to the OP if he's still around: you will be OK, assuming your powered sub is still active when using the speaker inputs (as nearly all are). However, I bet the HTIB sub is so much less capable than the new one that you're probably be better off runnning just the one.
 
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