[Continuum37]

Being somewhat nervous about my plans to mount a Sony 1270 from the ceiling of my apartment, I'd like to solicit some opinions here. I currently live in an apartment with vaulted ceilings that extend up to the roof joists. The Living room joists have about a 20' span at a 12 Degree upward pitch, and are 2x6's 18" on center. I plan on using some 2x4's to span two of the joists, bolted into the joists using some 3/8" x 6 lag bolts, and then bolt a Sony mount onto the frame created with the 2x4's. However, this just seems precarious, with such a long span of 2x6's holding a 150 lb projector right above my couch. Is this setup safe, or should I try an alternate arangement?


Thanks for any opinions


Ken

 

[snowmoon]

Sounds good. I was in a similar situation just this past week ( 1252 ) except they were floor joists so they were 2x8's on 16" centers. I used 4 2.5"x.5" lag screws and it's not going anywhere. I plan on adding a wire line to harness the beast just in case, but it's probably overkill.


Just make sure to pre-drill you lags or you can damage the joist and make the lag much less potent. Others might have some recomendations for the slant, as it may put additional pressure on the mount or screws.


It might be helpful to know how the PJ is going to be mounted VS the pitch of the ceiling.

 

[Continuum37]

The proj is going to be mounted facing the uphill pitch, so I will have to tilt the mount down to get it level. I hadn't thought too much about how that might affect the pressure put on the lags. Also, I'll definately pre-drill the lags, but what diam should I drill for a 3/8" lag?


Further info, I'll mount about 5' from one of the walls, so the weight should not be in the middle of the span.


Thanks,

Ken

 

[Vic C]

Remember to predrill just slightly smaller the the 3/8 bolts. Maby like 1/4" holes? maby a little smaller. Just make it that you cant hand thread the bolts in


The hole should be the size of the bolt minus the grabbing teeth, you want the threads on the bolt to cut into the beams. Also, dont over tighten the bollts as you mount the mounting bracket. I had predrilled my holes and was so worried that I wasent tightening enough that I actually broke the heads off the bolts. All you have to do is make sure you get them snug. You'll know when you reach that piont. Seriously, dont over tighten because you will actually streach the bolts and weaken them !

 

[Brian Hampton]

Hey,


Each lag bolt has a recommended pre-drill size. You don't want to get this wrong. If you go to Home Depot you can write down the size drill bit you need for your particular lag bolt.


I bought my lag bolts at HD and noted the pre-drill size there when I bought them.


Good Luck,


Brian

 

[Tom Morrow]

My concern is that the geometry sounds like it will put the projector significantly higher than the top edge of the screen. This is going to require some radical adjustments of the geometery controls and will use less of the CRT leading to more burn in and/or less resolution. Definitely check the mounting specs in the manual to make sure you are within allowable angles.


If there is any doubt, drop the projector with some kind of extension.


At any rate, I have my 1272 attached to some metal tubes which are lag-screwed into two 2x10 floor joists, 4 lag screws in each, and it seems fine.


-Tom

 

[Continuum37]

I'm mounting this on the low side of the room w/a 8.5 foot ceiling height at the mounting point. I think I should be able to fully counter the 12 degree upward pitch w/ the factory mount, so it should face the screen head on. I guess if there's significant electronic adjustment/small raster area, I'll just build a drop in to correct that.


Thanks for all the suggestions so far.


Ken