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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,


Im actually right in the middle of having drinks (oops) and running 12awg home depot speaker 2-wire around my room which will be under (somewhat) the baseboards. As I was doing this, I can tuck some of it under the drywall which is good, but wondering if its resting against metal studs will it cause any actual/potential interference/degradation?


Whatchu think friends?
 

· The Village Idiot
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As long as those metal studs aren't electrified in some way -- no.
 

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Actually.... if the speaker wire is being run in-wall or behind the drywall, then it should most definitely be CL-2 or CL-3 rated in wall speaker wire. If you're using plain 12 AWG zipcord (the stuff with the clear jacket).... you are using a wire that is NOT recommended or approved for in-wall use.


CL-2/3 wire is more highly insulated and has a fire rating. It will burn a lot slower and if it does, it gives off less toxic fumes. Should you ever have a fire and the improper wire is found to be run inside the wall cavity against code (even if the wire itself wasn't at fault), there could still be insurance implications.


If it were me, I'd grab some 12 or 14 AWG CL-2 or CL-3 from Monoprice and re-run the wire. It's not expensive at all and IMHO, not worth the risk to run improper wire inside the wall cavity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys! Im not actually running it inside the walls, just around the perimeter where the carpet meets the drywall. For example, for the front (L/C/R) speakers I will be running the 3 wires along together. However, One of them I will have room to tuck underneath the drywall a little. The other 2 will be running along the seam etc.


Then I will throw up the baseboard overtop of that. My only concern was that I used metal studs throughout the room with 5/8" drywall. I was just worried that the metal sill plate "might" cause potential degradation/interference to my audio.
 

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Electrically there is no problem as long as there are no sharp edges that can puncture or abrade the wire jacket and insulation.


As mentioned, the wire should be CL rated (plenum grade) and be sure that when the base boards are attached there is no screw penetration of the cable.


After the wire is in place and the baseboards attached, you should take a multimeter and check for any continuity between the conductors themselves and between the steel studs and all the wire conductors to rule out any possible shorts BEFORE connecting anything to an amplifier.


The steel studs will be grounded relatively poorly when nailed to a concrete slab and if there is any continuity between a single conductor and the studs you can easily damage the amp(s).
 

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I agree with the monoprice suggestion. Order a 50ft spool for 14 plus shipping, run wire underneath drywall, attach moulding and be done with it. As for the moulding being attached..I always use phenoseal or Dap adhesive. No worries about shooting a nail or screw thru the wire. Better safe than sorry with any type of wiring inside walls. I have this wire in my setup...nice stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welp, just what just checked the wire from home depot i bought and it just so happens that its CL3 (black/white wrapped with dark green insulation
Lucky me eh? Anyways, the fronts are now ran, will do the rear surrounds tomorrow. It may be a little overkill being 12 guage, but oh well, cant hurt.


Thanks guys
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdmfer /forum/post/16838208


Welp, just what just checked the wire from home depot i bought and it just so happens that its CL3 (black/white wrapped with dark green insulation
Lucky me eh? Anyways, the fronts are now ran, will do the rear surrounds tomorrow. It may be a little overkill being 12 guage, but oh well, cant hurt.


Thanks guys

Good for you. It's NICE when things work out that way once in a while.
 
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