[Green96ta]

I finally cut the Uni/powerstrut and installed it on the unit. I used 5.25" torx head undustrial lag/screws (2 in each 2x6 joist) in pre drilled holes. I just used 5/16 threaded rod (cut to length) to install the base powerstrut to the PJ, then 1/4 in threaded rod (cut to length). Are the (4) 1/4" pieces strong enough to hold the PJ up?


Here is a pic of my mischief...


Thanks,

Daniel

 

[Andrew Low]

I'll answer a guarded 'yes'. There is of course room for error, but your description sounds ok.


My test was to hang the projector, then hang off of the mount as well. My 200lbs added to the projector weight.. and nothing moved. I was satisfied.


Roo

 

[Ursa]

You might want to go up to 5/16 all around just to be safe, but you should be fine. Each of the pieces of threaded rod should be sufficient unto themselves, but they would be a bit, um, "bendy" should someone try to swing from it... (I believe that it is sheer that you might be concerned about, stress and strain should be way overkill...).


Later,

Bill

 

[Prometheusbound]

Why are the mounts at different heights? Are the two pieces of strut they mount to also at different heights? I would think that it would hold. I was very paranoid about using lags and laid 6' boards across the rafters and ran the 5/16" ready rod through the transverse laid boards. I then took a fender washer with a nut brazed to it, drilled a hole in the fender washer and screwed it to the top of the boards. I then screwed the ready rod into this. I then screwed another nut onto the top of the ready rod and brazed it to the rod so it could not be unscrewed all the way.

 

[Green96ta]

Hmmm... I was under the impression that the rear would need to be adjustable (height wise). So, I made the rear adjustable like 4" or so. Should I mount it flat to the ceiling? I have standard 8' ceilings and the screen is like 130" away...


I used the regular 5/16 bolts and threaded rod to hold my base to the pj, but they only had 1/4 powerstrut inserts at home depot or I would have used 5/16.

 

[Ursa]

Daniel,

Go for making the whole thing adjustable +/- an inch on each corner if you can. That way you can get your level just right. Also, unless you are shooting straight at the screen, you will want the bottom of the projector level, with the lenses 12 degree angle figured into your throw distance calculations. Search for a Sony program called PJCalc.exe to get an example of the geometry (version 4.x?).


Later,

Bill

 

[Juno]

My ECP300 is mounted very similar to that,

that should work fine.


And if you do the extra work to make it adjustable from all angles, you'll have less trouble later.


You may find that your ceiling is not a level as you thought after hanging that PJ.


Good luck. =0)

 

[Green96ta]

Man, I was off and bored today so I ran by Lowes and Home Depot. I ended up changing the mount. Tell me if you think this will work ok...


I have 5/16 eye hooks on the pj itself and the ceiling mount looks like this:

 

[Jay Wilson]

That's very similar to mine and how my Marquee is mounted, except I kept threaded rods (5/16) at each corner instead of turnbuckles. I'm not sure I would be comfortable with the turnbuckles, although they're probably strong enough.

 

[Green96ta]

Yeah, the turnbuckle thing looked too easy. I may try to find some better (more heavy duty) ones before I throw it up there. I tried a few local home depots and they didnt have any pieces left to use for the mount except 1/4 spring clamps.