When you have the WinISD screen that shows what you want, press Alt+Print Screen on your keyboard. Now open MS Paint and simply Paste. Crop the image appropriately, and save it as a .jpeg. Make sure you size the screen in WinISD appropriately too, as AVS will only let you post so big of a picture.
Well, that's what I figured I needed to do but it doesn't seem to work (my print screen button that is). I am at work so I don't know if it is because of windows 2000 or my keyboard is just broken or what--but I do know that is won't work. I will post it tomorrow when I am using a different computer.
Let me take a guess as to what you are referring to - take a look at the attached FR - are you talking about how it kinda dips in the middle compared to a driver that models flatter? Keep in mind that the FR that I am showing is the best I have found to optimize overall performance. If you are experimenting with other parameters, the dip will be even more dramatic.
Well, that's what I figured I needed to do but it doesn't seem to work (my print screen button that is
Use the great little freeware program MWSnap 3 . You can grab any sized section off the monitor, so no editing steps are needed after the capture. It also has a built-in magnifier with crosshairs so you can accurately place the curser to copy only what you want.
I found part of my problem. I was using the T/S parameters supplied within WinIsd for the RL-P15 and it was giving an xmax of less than 15mm. So I entered it as a new driver with the info supplied from the Soundsplinter site but I don't know what to enter for Le. What do you guys use for Le?
Also, has anyone modeled the Arsenal 15 from Ascendant audio? It looks pretty good and so does the price of $210.
I use an Le of 5.65, I believe Thomas suggested that number based on a similar driver. Anything from 4-6 doesn't change too much, but there is a big difference between 0 and 5.65. For the dual 2 ohm version, 260 liters and a 15-16.5hz tune looks the best to me.
It depends on if you want more extension or more output. If trying to keep a reasonably flat response from just the sub, the 2ohm will extend a bit deeper while the 4ohm will be able to play a bit louder. How big is your room again?
So when you compare the two--does it look about like this? The first image called sub3 is with a 260L enclosure and the second image called sub2 is with a 330L enclosure. I can use 330L if you think it is better. However, smaller is better if there will probably not be a noticable difference.
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