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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought it would be interesting to build a sub that is focused on qualty and quantity. After taking a look at the Genelec HTS6 its obvious that multiple drivers go where others can't and careful loading looks like a nice way to drop the excursion and distortion as well as maintain high SPL's. I believe that Genelec use the Peerless XLS12 in that design, its also waay to big for my tastes and doesn't go low enough either, so I decided to buy four Peerless XLS10's, design a smaller cabinet and go with a non-standard EBS alignment which is tuned to a very low 14hz.


I've included the a sealed version of the sub for comparison, the key is:

Orange = 4x XLS10 in 130ltr vented enclosure tuned to 14hz

Green = 4x XLS10 in 130ltr sealed enclosure with LT(Q=0.5, Fp=20hz)



Maximum SPL:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...288/maxspl.JPG



Phase:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/phase.JPG



Group Delay:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...groupdelay.JPG



Excursion at 20hz/105dB:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-.../excursion.JPG



Port Velocity(in meter p/sec) at 20hz/105dB:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...88/portvel.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And the design:


I was bored once again so decided to play in CorelDraw. Check the sig, how cool is that :D The sub is shown to scale against one of the Perceives. I was thinking it would be cool to have a TV stand/coffee table come subwoofer. Maybe with a recessed smoked glass top, there's a good glazier near me that could cut that sort of thing to size

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1050288/subv2.jpg



View from side showing port detail(that's over 2m long and has a cross sectional area equivalent to a 6" ID Port.):

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-.../subv2side.jpg



Bottom of the enclosure showing driver layout and some bracing:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...ubv2bottom.jpg
 

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That's a beautiful design! Is this a hobby or your business, if yes, you should! Would you mind taking step by step pics of your build?
 

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When's the drywall patching project starting? :) Just poking fun.


I really liked the Perceives. The sub looks like a perfect compliment. Your build skills are extraordiary, and I'm positive that it will come out great.
 

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Great DIY idea, although I wonder about the mulitiple bends in the vent. Even with the large cross-sectional area, you might have some airflow issues due to the length/turns in the port.

JP
 

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I am trying to come up with a very low extending set of 4 colocated TINY subs... thinking 4 sealed 10" drivers in small boxes, one in each corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by zora
Great DIY idea, although I wonder about the mulitiple bends in the vent. Even with the large cross-sectional area, you might have some airflow issues due to the length/turns in the port.

JP
Yep, the port will either make or break the design. TBH I'm a little worried about it myself... but its the only way I could achieve what I wanted given the sizing constraints I have.


Because of these concerns, I made sure that I had a backup plan; I can simply build a regular(and smaller) base without the port and still keep the top section will at least save me some work. The sealed design still looks OK performance wise. I guess I'll just have to build it and see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thankyou for the kind words, very much appreciated.


I'll keep this thread updated with photo's once I start construction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by zkaudio
I am trying to come up with a very low extending set of 4 colocated TINY subs... thinking 4 sealed 10" drivers in small boxes, one in each corner.
Sounds like a nice idea for combating room nodes. Sticking a sub in each corner of the room will be slightly tricky to initially setup but desite the distances between each I'd expect that the output will couple at the lowest frequencies simply because the associated wavelengths are large, providing of course you can correctly time align the subs to avoid cancellations.


The XLS10 works OK in a sealed enclosure, despite what WinISD and the rest predict. I had an 18ltr sealed enclosure with a single XLS10 and extended to 25hz flat in-room. There's a few other subs that work better in this application ie. small sub.
 

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DAYUM! dude, you got some really nice photoshop/coreldraw skills!! :eek: nice pics man...I'm jealous!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Habs4life
I give you full marks for not trying the ordinary or the simple.Nice looking design :)
Thanks.
 

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Shinobiwan


You might want to make the turns in the port as smooth as possible.


I built a test port using custom concentric tubes where the air had to make two 180 degree turns and it proved to be too noisy. If you want to see the work, just google for "concentric port"


I would definitely use a rollover bit on the inside of the turns. For the outside of the turns, you could lay in some PVC pipe that had been split in half lengthwise.


If the required radius is other than a standard pipe size, you'll find that PVC is quite amenable to being opened out once a hot air gun is applied.



Regards

Collo
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Collo
Shinobiwan


You might want to make the turns in the port as smooth as possible.


I built a test port using custom concentric tubes where the air had to make two 180 degree turns and it proved to be too noisy. If you want to see the work, just google for "concentric port"


I would definitely use a rollover bit on the inside of the turns. For the outside of the turns, you could lay in some PVC pipe that had been split in half lengthwise.


If the required radius is other than a standard pipe size, you'll find that PVC is quite amenable to being opened out once a hot air gun is applied.



Regards

Collo
Thanks for the wise words Collo.


This has troubled me for a while now and my only real consolation is that I can seal the whole thing up and still have respectable performance. Or maybe run aperiodic.


I fully intend to radius the important parts and smooth the passage of air. The PVC tip is a good one! I was originally thinking of filling and shaping with a mold but it may just turn out to be even easier with your suggestion.


BTW just how much output did you have to lose in order to eliminate port noise when comparing the compound to a regular port?
 

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Once I found that the port performed worse than a straight port, I didn't go any further with the measurements. The CSA was equivalent to an 86mm port - quite a bit smaller than you're building so hopefully yours will perform better.


Certainly an equivalent straight 6in flared port would handle your airflow without complaint, so you should be in the ballpark.
 

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great work shinobiwan. if it turns out anything like your other work it will be gorgeous. i wish i had an inkling of your talent. keep the pics and updates coming.
 
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