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Wired Remote for Marquee 8000

252 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by sfoltz, Feb 28, 2005

Vineet Singh

Discussion Starter · Feb 27, 2005

When I got the electrohome 8000 projector, I was told it had an IR remote. I've tried it with batteries, and it has never worked, nor does it look like it's backlit. There is an IR sensor (I assume), on the bottom right corner of the foam next to the green tube (or maybe blue).

Where the jumper pins are supposed to be, there are soldered wire shorts from jumpers 1 and 3, with no spot for jumper #2 (middle pin).

Is this projector capable of IR remote control? Is there any programmable one that can control it? Does anyone have a newer controller that has the right style jumpers? Would you like to sell it? Or should I bug Eric Lang after all these years (I told him within a week of getting it 2 years ago about this issue).

Where the middle pin would be, there is a THIN trace on the board, on all 4 jumper locations, but there is no hole or solder fill tab at all (it has that green coating on it in fact).

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lovebohn

· #2 · Feb 28, 2005

I would look on fleebay for another remote or I think Curt may have some programmable ones too. I don't think a normal learning remote (Radio Shack) will work since the frequency for a Marquee is to high. Try doing a search in the archives i know this has been discussed before. If the 8000 is the same as an 8500 you need to go in the menu and make sure you have it set up for IR, the manual also talks about the needed changes.

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Vineet Singh

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 28, 2005

Thanks for your input! I noticed the IR menu, and I have read the manual for it... the problem is, my jumpers aren't jumpers like this picture,

[URL='http:/4delv%5B/img']http://*******.com/4delv[/img[/URL] ]

(and even these look weird, shouldn't they just be pins like computer jumpers?)

They are in the same spot as the picture above, but what would be pin 3 and 1, are just wire shorts with no riser. It just goes straight across from point to point, with no middle jumper location (what would be pin 2).

The diagram below shows how to switch what jumper to what, for the 2 modes of operation.

[img] [URL='http:/3q55c%5B/img']http://*******.com/3q55c[/img[/URL] ]

That means the first picture is set for IR operation, with backlight, sending in protocol A . Mine does have the backlight, no IR, and I don't know what protocol, because of the missing middle pin 2.

I'm bidding on the -fleeBay- one as we speak, but would rather not buy two of the same thing if there was a way to make mine work... I suppose I could eBay my own again if needed, if I figured it out.

Thanks again!

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sfoltz

· #4 · Feb 28, 2005

Vineet,

I assume your remote has the battery contacts inside the battery compartment. Have you opened up the remote (not just the battery cover, but the case itself) and looked at the board?

Before trying to convert the remote from wired to IR, check to see that it has the IR emitters at the front. They are located behind the red plastic piece and look like two little clear bulbs.

If your remote has the emitters, than its probably just a matter of desoddering the wire on j1 and soddering, as necessary wires on j2, j3 and j4. I was able to convert an ECP remote (the kind that look just like a Marquee remote) in this manner. The ECP remote has a label of "9415" inside the battery compartment.

However, I have a wired-only remote (label in battery compartment says "9411") from an 8000 that has the battery contacts, but does not have the IR emitters. One of these days I will buy or salvage some emitters and see if the remote can be converted, but I do not know if it will work.

Alternatively, you can get a Pronto and download the file from RemoteCentral and it works great. Refurbished and used Prontos are very reasonably priced.

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Vineet Singh

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 28, 2005

Hi Scott,

I just checked, and I have a 9415 sticker. I opened it up, and there are two IR diodes behind the smoked/IR plastic.

Looking closely at the board, I see the wire shunt for JP4 is cut/open, and J1-3 are shunted/closed from what would be pin 1 and pin 3. There is no provision on the board for the middle pin 2 as far as I can tell, unless you mean to scratch the traces that run somewhat where pin 2 would be and shunt them instead.

I took a picture with my camera phone (sorry) of what I have.

Thanks!

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Vineet Singh

Discussion Starter · #6 · Feb 28, 2005

hmm, since everything but IR works, and JP4 is cut (which is the only one related to IR function switching), why don't I solder that back and see if it works?

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sfoltz

· #7 · Feb 28, 2005

You need to cut or remove the wire on j1 and solder in the wire on j4 and it should work. BTW, I've found the newer style ECP remotes work with Marquees (but the button labels are different). In fact, I tested the ECP remote that I converted on my Marquee and it works fine.

Is the top right button on your remote labeled "PIC" or is it "F.SYNC"

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Vineet Singh

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 28, 2005

Will do! Thanks!

It's labeled PIC.

What is an ECP? Oh, and I just got outbid for the marquee remote on fleebay... So this better work, because I did put in my max bid

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sfoltz

· #9 · Feb 28, 2005

The ECP is Electrohome's 7 inch crt projector. It came in various models. I just wanted to make sure that you actually had a Marquee remote.

BTW, how do you attach pictures to your post? I was going to repost the picture of you remote board with the areas circled where you need the wires and where you remove the wire.

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Vineet Singh

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 28, 2005

All the pics I posted were on the web elsewhere, but you can attach a picture if you scroll down when you post. You can see an "ATTACH FILE" section, where if you click "browse" you can look for a picture on your hard drive. I think the limit is 512kb (half a mb).

I followed what you said, and made some jumper pins so I can switch quickly from IR and wired usage. I don't really have a way to test it, because there isn't a screen up, and the menu's are too fuzzy to read

Thank you so much for your input! I think you just saved me 60+$

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sfoltz

· #11 · Feb 28, 2005

Don't mean to beat a dead horse, but I've attached a picture those circled in red that need wires and circled in yellow that needs to be cut or removed.

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