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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already have two things wired up (HTPC/XBOX) but im thinking about wiring up the other computers.


I read that couplers add some resistance but did not find anything as to how much. Im currently using 50ft cat6 wires with a keystone coupler on each end (and then maybe 3ft of wire going to the router/devices). The other rooms would probably need 100ft cat6. Would I be ok using couplers again? The ones already done seem to work great. I would rather not worry about crimping if the couplers will work.


And any particular router you recommend for a wired/wireless (we have one laptop) setup with usb? Or does it not really matter? Im not too worried about the wireless performance just as long as it can surf the web, but I need the wired to be able to stream well
 

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Probably work fine.


Whatever router you are comfortable with. I can work with any of them, doesn't matter to me. I prefer streaming over gigabit, but it's not necessary. Couplers might cause issues with too many of those splicers in place.
 

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I'd terminate longer runs with a keystone like this, instead of a coupler:




A 2 dollar plastic pushdown tool can help make the connections, but it really isn't much more than a 5 minute job, if that. But like the poster above said, it probably won't add enough resistance to be noticeable if you go with couplers. My option just eliminates one thing to worry about at each wall plate.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_z /forum/post/19505257


That does not appear to be riser rated cable.

Do it right the first time, and use riser-rated cable for installation inside the walls.


Regards

Agreed. I would just buy a spool of CL2 (in-wall rated) cable instead. No splices, and you just buy a couple of keystone jacks for the wall plates. Piece of cake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_z /forum/post/19505257


That does not appear to be riser rated cable.

Do it right the first time, and use riser-rated cable for installation inside the walls.


Regards
Quote:
Originally Posted by kegobeer /forum/post/19505639


Agreed. I would just buy a spool of CL2 (in-wall rated) cable instead. No splices, and you just buy a couple of keystone jacks for the wall plates. Piece of cake.

But its CMG...doesnt that still mean you can use it in walls? I know its stranded. This is the cable I already used
. From reading this should be fine for a single family with a single story house (mine is both). Its alot cheaper and im on a budget.


EDIT: Here says "stranded for inwall" and has the CMG rating.

http://estore.circuitassembly.com/pr...AWG-Cable.html
 

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From that website it lists the different in-wall ratings:


CMG is for general in-wall use. It is equivalent to CL2 & CL3. It is for general commercial and residential in-wall installation applications.


CMR is riser rated cable. These are suitable for situation where cable is passed from one floor of a structure to another.


CMP is for Plenum and is the highest in-wall rating. Plenum cables are specifically designed to go into the Plenum areas of commercial building where air circulation systems are. Plenum cables are formulated so they do not produce toxic gases as they burn.


I'm not sure what's special about riser cable that lets it go between floors. You can get 1000' of bulk cable for the same price as 2 100' patch cords. You just need a punch down tool and the keystone jacks that someone above linked to. Everything from monoprice is much cheaper than your local hardware store -- it's not tough to do, just watch a video online and it's cake.


Everyone seems to like the linksys WRT-54G wireless routers. Just depends on whether you have anything that needs wireless-N, etc.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonpowell /forum/post/19519916


I'm not sure what's special about riser cable that lets it go between floors.

It's flammability (or lack of it). How well does the PVC jacket and insulation burn? Would this cable act like a fuse cord (like when they light up old dynamite sticks in the movies) for a fire burning in one part of the house?


The OP should check with his local Building Department for the local building/electrical codes that he needs to satisfy.


Regards
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob2300NX /forum/post/19505739


I know its stranded.

I'd think you want a solid cable to use with the punch down connectors.


I too would say to buy a roll of cable but I'm not sure where you'd get 1000' for $24 give or take...


Peter
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by colonpowell /forum/post/19519916


Everyone seems to like the linksys WRT-54G wireless routers. Just depends on whether you have anything that needs wireless-N, etc.

That's a rather dated by todays standards 100mbps model. I would recommend one with 1000mbps network ports. It'll come with wireless N too. If you buy a cheaper model then you'll end up either upgrading or buying a 1000mpbs switch to get the faster network speeds. I have a cheap Linksys and it's been working fine for me.


Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by colonpowell /forum/post/19519916


From that website it lists the different in-wall ratings:


CMG is for general in-wall use. It is equivalent to CL2 & CL3. It is for general commercial and residential in-wall installation applications.


CMR is riser rated cable. These are suitable for situation where cable is passed from one floor of a structure to another.


CMP is for Plenum and is the highest in-wall rating. Plenum cables are specifically designed to go into the Plenum areas of commercial building where air circulation systems are. Plenum cables are formulated so they do not produce toxic gases as they burn.


I'm not sure what's special about riser cable that lets it go between floors. You can get 1000' of bulk cable for the same price as 2 100' patch cords. You just need a punch down tool and the keystone jacks that someone above linked to. Everything from monoprice is much cheaper than your local hardware store -- it's not tough to do, just watch a video online and it's cake.


Everyone seems to like the linksys WRT-54G wireless routers. Just depends on whether you have anything that needs wireless-N, etc.

Where can I get 1000ft of bulk for the price the patch cables? I would be paying $24 for 2X100ft of patch cable which is all I would need. Its $92 for bulk wire at monoprice and is $86 for 200ft at home depot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_z /forum/post/19520116


It's flammability (or lack of it). How well does the PVC jacket and insulation burn? Would this cable act like a fuse cord (like when they light up old dynamite sticks in the movies) for a fire burning in one part of the house?


The OP should check with his local Building Department for the local building/electrical codes that he needs to satisfy.


Regards

Great idea, I will check. Thank You


Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshDorhyke /forum/post/19520237


Is this the type of coupler you used, with it installed in a wall plate?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


If so, I don't see any reason this isn't as good as a punch-down jack.


Peter

I used this one: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Thats exactly why I made this thread, I wasnt sure why it would make any difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshDorhyke /forum/post/19520295


That's a rather dated by todays standards 100mbps model. I would recommend one with 1000mbps network ports. It'll come with wireless N too. If you buy a cheaper model then you'll end up either upgrading or buying a 1000mpbs switch to get the faster network speeds. I have a cheap Linksys and it's been working fine for me.


Peter

I am definitely not going to get that router, its great but way outdated. I am using the belkin N+ but im only getting 1.5MB/S with wireless N to wireless N transfers. I was going to go cabled anyways but if my transfer rate doesnt go up ill be changing it. Other than this issue the belkin router has be surprisingly rock solid.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob2300NX /forum/post/19520653


I used this one: http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Thats exactly why I made this thread, I wasnt sure why it would make any difference.

I don't see any reason why a coupler or a punch down would make any difference, assuming both simply make a good connection. It'll be cheaper and easier so just go for it.


Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshDorhyke /forum/post/19525364


I don't see any reason why a coupler or a punch down would make any difference, assuming both simply make a good connection. It'll be cheaper and easier so just go for it.


Peter

Thanks for the recommendation. Ill go with the coupler and see if I have any problems. If I do, I know that monoprice sells punch down's for stranded wire.
 
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