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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of building my theater and will be to the staining/finishing portion on the wood work soon. A lot of the wood work will be cherry. I plan to stain and then seal it, but my question pertains to how best to seal it. I want a surface that will not reflect too much light. I was thinking about just a wax paste applied after stain and then buffed out. Any suggestions from those of you that are more knowledgeable than myself?
 

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Where is the woodwork in question...Columns, casing, base boards, chair rail, etc? The answer may depend on which of these you are talking about.


Chair rail, casing or other detailed mouldings are more difficult to maintain a wax only finish. As always pictures will also help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are several areas in question....the face of the stage,riser, and steps as well as the bullnosed ledges of each, as well as, the all trim work on the columns and the baseboards are all cherry. I will try to get some pics posted but the soonest will be tomorrow night because I am out of town for work right now.
 

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Anything that is going to be under wear and tear use low sheen 2 pack poly...hard as nails. Not the best finish, but for your purposes its probably the "best".


Check to make sure your stain can be used under whatever you go with


One coat of http://www.ubeaut.com.au/hardshell.htm would also work. I use it for just about everything (fine furniture) and you can control the sheen by the number of layers/thining.
 

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I found that Minwax wipe on satin poly was very easy to apply and isn't at all glossy. I wouldn't use it for flooring or a table top that gets constant abuse, but for my theater it's perfect.
 

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I'm curious as to why you would stain cherry. If you want it darker, and I'm sure it's too late for this now, try fuming it with ammonia.

Poly or Spar urethane both work well. Just make sure it's not real humid when you apply or it may blush. I prefer a mixture of paste wax and boiled linseed oil, heated on the stove (mixture in one pan placed in another pan of water). Simply wipe it on while it's still a little warm. I have found it's pretty durable and easy to reapply when necessary. The old school thinking is that new polyurethane won't stick well to old poly.

If you would like to see the look of fumed cherry check out a recent sculpture of mine. It's cherry and copper. I fumed it for about 36 hours with commercial grade ammonia.
http://studio407.net/the_war_of_the_world.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Macadoo,


that is a beautiful piece of sculpture, the cherry has a very rich color to it. I will have to keep the ammonia treatment in mind for other projects. For this project, however, I am trying to match colors with some other woodwork so I am stuck with staining it.


Cathan,

I thought about the minwax satin poly but I wasn't sure how much sheen it would produce, I may have to pick up a small sample can and test it out some. Would you happen to have any pics of woodwork treated with the satin poly?
 

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For clarification; the fumed cherry sculpture was finished with shellac, a fairly high gloss. The paste wax and linseed oil mixture has a much lower sheen. I haven't used it in a while but it may be worth a look.

I'm glad you folks enjoyed the piece.
 
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