AVS Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help. I am going to order the X1 this week and I am trying to figure the best way to set it up. The pj will be mounted about 13'6" from the screen, which should give me some room to adjust between 80 and 96" diagonal 16:9. I am using a DIY Parkland Plastics screen 4x8.


I am a little confused.

Should I set this up so a 16:9 image would fill the majority of the screen and the black bars will shoot off the screen or into the masking material? What kind of masking material should I use?

It seems I will need to change the mask for 2.35:1, 1.85:1, 2.78:1 (or whatever that ultra wide aspect ratio is).


This is kind of a pain (masking and unmasking for any change in aspect ratio). I can always cut the screen down, but the change in aspect ratio is going to be a problem I think.

I am also confused on placement above/below screen level.


Ok...so I am alot confused. I thought I had a good grasp on this stuff, but it seems like its not that easy. Any help is appreciated.


BTW....this is a 99.999999% DVD movie screen. I like wide....wider is better :D :D . The thing that is bugging me is the 2.35:1 and wider.


Thanks!.....and MisssissippiMan.....please help! *LOL* And don't tell me to set it up 4:3 because a 4x8 sheet of luan with Parkland on it IS gonna 16:9


MQ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
I went with the 16:9 ratio. It is IMOH the most universally used!...


Then you can use a bit of velcro and black cloth to mask the rest out if it bothers you that much..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I have a 4:3 set up. I'd be interested in how you deal with the occasional 4:3 material. Do you use the zoom to decrease the size of your image to fit the 16:9 screen. When I go from 4:3 to 16:9 I just slap up my masking top and bottom, no zoom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
If you're using a regular DVD player and VCR for movies & TV, a 1.78 or 1.85 screen would be best. But if you're using a computer for DVD playback and TV viewing, I'd go with a 2.35 ratio screen. You can use the free Zoom Player software and set it up so that 1.85, 1.78, and 4:3 movies will play in the middle of your 2.35 screen with black borders on the sides. Since most movies are 2.35, you'd be using the full screen most of the time. And for the other ratios, the black bars on the side won't bother you nearly as much as having black bars on the top & bottom.


An easy way to implement a 2.35 ratio screen would be to mask the top & bottom 4.5 inches of your 8x4 parkland sheet. This would give you 96x41".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I have a 72" 16:9 screen. All our viewing so far has been DVD film. I made some masking pieces using Gator Board covered on one side with black velvet. I installed some 1/2" wide 3M Dual Lock (a reusable fastening system similar to Velcro but much stronger) to the screen surround (also covered with black velvet) and the back of the masking pieces. Before we watch a film, I find a scene with clearly defined edges, freeze the frame and put the masking in place. We end up with a perfectly framed image, no matter the aspect ratio. For the occasional 4:3 image, I just stand the masks on end against the screen and even that works pretty well; we watch so little 4:3 that so far it hasn't seemed worth the effort to install Dual Lock on the screen/masks for 4:3 source material. If you watch a lot (on average, we can only watch one film per week ) the slight set-up effort might be a bother, but for us the solution couldn't be better.


Cheers, and enjoy the X1. We sure love ours.


Larry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
435 Posts
I'm not using a HTPC so I use a 1.78 screen (approx. 96" Diag). We watch 20% TV and 80% DVD's.

When we watch TV we just stretch image to fill screen the screen, and it actually doesn't look to bad. Not as stre--------------etched out as we thought. :D


Jessica ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help everyone.


Setup will be X1 running off a Panasonic XP50 through the VGA. Occasional use of an HTPC too, but primarily, the XP50.


mbaxter....I like the way you think, make the screen 96" with a 2.35:1 aspect ratio seems like the way to go for me. I do not watch TV, so the 4:3 isn't really a big issue for me. I do watch alot of anime, but i can live with a smaller screen and black bars on the side for the 4:3 anime and the Wizard of Oz and the limited 4:3 things I watch.


So if I did go with 2.35:1....I guess I would just have to zoom out a little for a 1.85:1?...and zoom out alot for 4:3? I will have to do some calculating when I get home.


Hofman....the masking set up you describe sounds like it works well. I watch 2-4 movies a week depending on length and how tired I am plus usually one night of anime, so the setup wouldn't be a big deal for me either.


I guess 16:9 is the most universal, but I see black bars on 16:9 TV's too for anything wider then 1.85:1. The black bars don't bother me a whole lot, I just worry about the light bleed being annoying.


Perhaps now, the non-believers will see why I insist on watching the widescreen version even on the smallest of tv sets.....lol


MQ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
...or maybe the numbers are running me? ;)


Regardless, I've done some calculating and here is what I come up with based on InFocus website screen calculator thing-a-ma-jig.


If I mount the projector 12' from the screen I can achieve the following image sizes....keeping in mind my maximum height is limited to 48" or a little less, so I am guessing if I want to have any 4:3 material fitting on the screen, I will have to make some widescreen sacrifices.


At 12 '


16:9 Height Min = 35.682" Max = 42.856"

Width Min = 63.436" Max = 76.19"

Diag Min = 72.783" Max = 87.416"


4:3 Height Min = 47.577" Max = 57.142"

Width Min = 63.481" Max = 57.810"

Diag Min = 79.351" Max = 95.306"


It appears to me that this would be pretty much the ideal distance as I will be able to get an 87" diagonal image in 16:9 and a 79" image in 4:3. On the minus side, I would lose a few more inches on a 2.35:1 film.


Is it possible to stay in 16:9 mode and watch 4:3 material of a smaller size?


This is pretty complicated when you really think about it because you are working with so many factors....screen size, distance to screen and aspect ratio and 16:9 vs. 4:3 mode on the projector.


Basically, I want to get the biggest diagonal I can on a 2.35:1 movie, but still be able to watch a 1.85:1, 1.78:1, and 4:3 on the same screen without moving the projector. I have no problem with having to mask or a smaller image.


Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be? :confused:


Thanks all,


MQ



BTW Jessica, when you stretch to fit, I assume you have to be leaving the pj in 16:9 mode to watch 4:3 material?.....I'm getting a headache... :)
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,642 Posts
mquinn25,


What a lucky guy! I'm archiving the replies to your post for the sheer wealth of info you received. I've been busy wrapping up several things prior to leaving this PM for Toronto, I didn't come upon your thread until a few minutes ago. Too busy taking my dose of "X-llax" (Hi Jessica!)


Heres another tidbit.

"Is it possible to stay in 16:9 mode and watch 4:3 material of a smaller size? "


No matter what screen format you use, or the zoom factor, switching to "Native' on the PJ's menu will frame the image completely within the actual screen area. I don't know of any way you can leave the PJ in 16:9 and watch a 4:3 presentation without stretching the image. Any takers?


Who are all these "Masked" people?:D


I recently picked up on a recent thread concerning Rustoelum Sliver Spray paint being a world (..even Goo...) beater. Always open to new things, I set my Mad Scientist companion on the issue and in no time he came up with an Acrylic Automobile paint that almost exactly matches the Rustoelum product. Being sold in cans means it can be used as a spay or a roll / brush on. But all the more care must be used smoothing the surface, and with any silver hue, priming the surface is an absolute must. At the shootout, I'll be giving some advice on how anyone can smooth out an existing wall surface to the standard required for even the most decerning of eyes.


Not one to blindly accept hype, (X1 or otherwise) I still can imeadiatly see the difference between my Behr Old Chrome mixture and the potential of the paint above even on a 4' x 4' peice of raw dywall. I don't know yet if I can arrange to have some on hand at the Shootout, but in the least, it will be tested on an actual full size screen within 2 weeks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by mquinn25
mbaxter....I like the way you think, make the screen 96" with a 2.35:1 aspect ratio seems like the way to go for me. I do not watch TV, so the 4:3 isn't really a big issue for me. I do watch alot of anime, but i can live with a smaller screen and black bars on the side for the 4:3 anime and the Wizard of Oz and the limited 4:3 things I watch.


So if I did go with 2.35:1....I guess I would just have to zoom out a little for a 1.85:1?...and zoom out alot for 4:3? I will have to do some calculating when I get home.
I like you already. :) Like I said though, the catch to using a greater than 1.78 ratio screen is that to get away with this, you need to be using an HTPC for your DVD and TV/VCR playback. In other words, you need an HTPC with a DVD-ROM drive and a TV Tuner/vid-capture card (for TV and VHS). This is the only way you can set things up so that everything displays at the same height.


If you use regular DVD player and VCR to provide the input to the projector, you really needn't bother with any screen aspect less than 1.78 or 1.85, because you're going to end up having to manually zoom and unzoom the lens constantly.


To summarize, if you're not going to drive the projector with an HTPC, just make your screen 1.85 or 1.78 and put up with the black bars on your 2.35 movies.

Quote:
Originally posted by MississippiMan
At the shootout, I'll be giving some advice on how anyone can smooth out an existing wall surface to the standard required for even the most decerning of eyes.
Well don't be coy my boy, do tell! Seriously, I'm not going to be at that shootout and I'd really like to know how this is done.
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,642 Posts
:D

This my absolutely LAST post I have to leave for the airport in 1 hour.


Two very important tools to have. A cheap 4' aluminum level - 12" Mud Blade


First, If you rub the 4' level horizontely up and down the wall surface, you can revel any 'low or high spots' you have to fill with mud.


Apply mud to the edge of a 12" blade with a smaller 6" er Load it up, and apply with a broad sweep.


Continue to apply mud until you have a fairly even distribution across your current work area.


Use a inexpensive 4' level to spread the mud across an area to be used for a Screen. Done right, the chances of your getting a large ridge of uneven mud is about zilch. This is the "BIG" secret. (..well, 4' IS big, isn't it?)


Let DRY !!!!!!


"Lightly" sand ridges with 220 grit or:


Get a Sanding Sponge. Use 220 grit Sandpaper to "Spot" knock down any obvious ridges, and apply a 2/3rds squeezed Sponge to the wall with light, broad sweeps. Just moisten, don't wet. Flip the Sanding sponge over and use the other side to contiune buffing down any ridges. The wet emulsified sheetrock dust will flow into the craters and minute low points. Don't work the surface too much at one time. After you smooth with the Corse side, re wash the area "LIGHTLY" and get away from it. This should reduce dust to an minimum, and give you as smooth a finish as you desire. Apply as many "THIN" coats and smooth them as required until the level set flat across the surface


Final surface can be eithe dry sanded with ultra fine grit paper, or lightly smoothed again with a almost dry sponge.


I'm outta here!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks you guys....I appreciate the help.


So, it looks like for now, I am gonna go 1.85:1. I do have a new PC that would work well as HTPC, but I don't think the sound card I have will pass the dts signal. I will certainly be using the PC from time to time, but mainly the DVD player.


So basically, I have chosen the aspect ratio and now I just need to mount the projector within the min and max distance to achieve the desired screen size? I assume the zoom adjusts the picture to fit the screen?


Thanks :)


MississippiMan.....good luck in Toronto and please do tell about the screen. I am going to have mine hanging from the ceiling with a chain because I have a fireplace in my way. Plus I can remove it easily and leave 2 white hooks in the ceiling that will go unnoticed and greatly increase the WAF. :)


MQ


MQ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
You might consider getting the projector first before sweating the mounting distance or even purchasing a screen. You may find yourself using Native mode, which produces a better image, but requires more throw and gives a slightly dimmer overall image because fewer pixels are active.


Regards,


Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Ditto what memobug said. Absolutely DO NOT buy the screen before the projector. You're likely to regret it.


Force yourself to resist the temptation to buy everything at once. Instead, get the projector, use a white wall for a couple of weeks, experiment with different means of playback (set-top player, HTPC, VCR) and continue to research and evaluate your screen choices. Then make an informed decision.


There are too many factors that come into play, too many unknowns, to make a smart screen purchase until you've had ample time to play with your new X1. Besides, seeing a movie even just on a wall will blow you away the first time. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Oh and one other thing - Parkland Plastic is super cheap and can be found at most any Lowes store. When you get your X1, you may want to experiment with a 4x8 sheet of PP stapled or nailed to your wall before you make your final screen decision. It's only $13 for a single 4x8 sheet and you don't need a truck or SUV to transport it; it rolls up easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes....I already have the Parkland Plastic screen mounted on a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" luan. A friend of mine has a Stewart Screen with a 1.3 gain he said I can "have"......what a friend, huh? He has a Runco CRT Projector, which makes him my favorite friend.


You guys are right....I might as well mess around and put it on the coffee table for now to see what works best. Then I can test and move without any hassle, and when I come to terms with what works best.....I'll make a more permanent mount.


What can I say?...I'm a big kid and I'm looking forward to this.:D


I was hoping to order it today.....but I guess I'll have to wait until tomorrow now because I want to ask a salesman a question.


....maybe I'll go order the cable...


MQ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
I agree with mbaxter. Get the projector first.


What I did was get a sheet of parkland, nailed it to a piece of 1x4 wood and slapped it up on the wall. I only needed the 1x4 because it was spanning an open doorway to another room.


I then got a ceiling mount and mounted the projector (thanks mandrax). At this point, I was ready to think about the (pulldown) screen. I just received my da-lite model B 2 days ago. It went up without a hitch and everything fits perfectly.


It was only after seeing the projector perform that I could accurately determine what size screen I should look for. I ended up with 80" wide 4:3 matte white. If I had purchased the screen first, I would have probably bought the wrong size/suface.


It was also quite helpful to get the da-lite samples (call da-lite, they'll ship you a set) and stick them to the screen (they are self advesive) so I could come to a decision about screen material.


So, in all, it took me about a month from the time I ordered the X1 to having it all set up properly.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top