Xbox 360 automatically resets with HDMI switches
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Just modified my own cables right now in less than 2 minutes. All you have to do is pry open the casing with a flathead screwdriver and you will see the wires exposed. Cut off the black wire that loops onto itself (as seen in the previous post) and then replace the casing. Make sure you're in TV mode and you'll have optical audio with HDMI switching without restarting
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My console won't fully turn on and recognize a controller until I change the input on my TV to the correct HDMI port. It doesn't turn off though if it's already on and I change the input (to another HDMI port; I don't have anything plugged in component) to my cable box.
I'm sure it's some HDCP thing...
I'm sure it's some HDCP thing...
I've seen the reports here that if you mod a component cable to fit next to the HDMI cable, you need to snip a certain wire on the back of the connector. Now, does this also apply to the VGA cable? From examining the pinout of the connector, I could understand snipping the black wire, though there doesn't seem to be any documentation here as to what pins the black wire is connected. From examing the pinout docs posted elsewhere, it would appear that the connections/jumpers apply:
pins 18-20 jumpered = VGA mode
pins 22-24 jumpered = Composite mode
pins 26-28 jumpered = Component mode
pins 22-24 and 26-28 jumpered = RGB SCART mode
Now, if the cable being discussed in this thread is a combo Composite/Component cable with a switch to select, it does not make any sense to snip a jumper wire here. I would've expect that the switch was a DPDT that shorted pins 22-24 when in the TV position and pins 26-28 in the HDTV position. So, it doesn't make sense that there would be a jumper wire between 2 pins that should be cut. All 4 pins should be connected to the switch. This is all well and good and I'm not arguing that it's not working for you guys, just trying to understand how to mod a VGA cable to give optical out with an HDMI cable connected.
Anybody?
P.J.
pins 18-20 jumpered = VGA mode
pins 22-24 jumpered = Composite mode
pins 26-28 jumpered = Component mode
pins 22-24 and 26-28 jumpered = RGB SCART mode
Now, if the cable being discussed in this thread is a combo Composite/Component cable with a switch to select, it does not make any sense to snip a jumper wire here. I would've expect that the switch was a DPDT that shorted pins 22-24 when in the TV position and pins 26-28 in the HDTV position. So, it doesn't make sense that there would be a jumper wire between 2 pins that should be cut. All 4 pins should be connected to the switch. This is all well and good and I'm not arguing that it's not working for you guys, just trying to understand how to mod a VGA cable to give optical out with an HDMI cable connected.
Anybody?
P.J.
Same here, chalk another up to the success category. Thanks for all your help people!
Valence01, not sure what to make of your situation. Sorry, wish I could help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by m4ng0 /forum/post/12496303
Just modified my own cables right now in less than 2 minutes. All you have to do is pry open the casing with a flathead screwdriver and you will see the wires exposed. Cut off the black wire that loops onto itself (as seen in the previous post) and then replace the casing. Make sure you're in TV mode and you'll have optical audio with HDMI switching without restarting![Image]()
Same here, chalk another up to the success category. Thanks for all your help people!
Valence01, not sure what to make of your situation. Sorry, wish I could help.
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233 Posts
I sold my original component cables and purchased the vga cables. I just purchased an Arcade w/HDMI.
I am yet to try it as I am doing heat shroud extension/divider mods to improve airflow to GPU and CPU, aswell will be painting the case.
I will be using HDMI cable with old VGA cable for optical( or that is the plan...might just stick with VGA as I have tweaked the service menu some(sammy hls-5687) and loose picture to overscan). I will post my findings on this "reset issue"
I am yet to try it as I am doing heat shroud extension/divider mods to improve airflow to GPU and CPU, aswell will be painting the case.
I will be using HDMI cable with old VGA cable for optical( or that is the plan...might just stick with VGA as I have tweaked the service menu some(sammy hls-5687) and loose picture to overscan). I will post my findings on this "reset issue"
What pinout docs are you using? Looking at this pinout:
http://www.blogsmithmedia.com/www.en...dget_howto.jpg
It seems that a jumper from pins 26-28 wouldn't do anything, since 26 is ground and 28 isn't connected to anything.
According to this guy on the chadledford site, that's where the jumper is connected and cutting it worked. I'm wondering if the pinout diagram above is wrong, since if there is a jumper between 26 and 28 then pin 28 has to be used for something.
# Keimei wrote:
Speedy,
I was on a mission tonight, I had to get this to work!
Look at this:
http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/14/h...-vga-cable-fo/
go down to the connector pin out photo.
This is the end with the wires of the connector in the shell of the component cable.
Cut the black wire jumper between 26&28
25, 27, & 29 must be connected for the toslink to work
All the wires going to the RCA connectors side of the cable are of no concern (cut them off or leave them, but disconnected from other equipment).
There is also red, black, & white colored wires from 20, 22, & 24. My white wire broke off during testing. So I don't know if you need to cut it or not. You need the red and / or black wire.
Put the switch in TV position and it works fine here.
HDMI & Toslink, beautiful! and no $50 charge!
Good luck if you want to try the same.
Later
Posted 02 Dec 2007 at 4:54 am ¶
http://www.blogsmithmedia.com/www.en...dget_howto.jpg
It seems that a jumper from pins 26-28 wouldn't do anything, since 26 is ground and 28 isn't connected to anything.
According to this guy on the chadledford site, that's where the jumper is connected and cutting it worked. I'm wondering if the pinout diagram above is wrong, since if there is a jumper between 26 and 28 then pin 28 has to be used for something.
# Keimei wrote:
Speedy,
I was on a mission tonight, I had to get this to work!
Look at this:
http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/14/h...-vga-cable-fo/
go down to the connector pin out photo.
This is the end with the wires of the connector in the shell of the component cable.
Cut the black wire jumper between 26&28
25, 27, & 29 must be connected for the toslink to work
All the wires going to the RCA connectors side of the cable are of no concern (cut them off or leave them, but disconnected from other equipment).
There is also red, black, & white colored wires from 20, 22, & 24. My white wire broke off during testing. So I don't know if you need to cut it or not. You need the red and / or black wire.
Put the switch in TV position and it works fine here.
HDMI & Toslink, beautiful! and no $50 charge!
Good luck if you want to try the same.
Later
Posted 02 Dec 2007 at 4:54 am ¶
One more question, so if you take off the grey plastic connector and cut the black jumper wire, does this break any of the functionality of the connector (meaning, does composite and component still work)? I don't really plan on using composite or component connectors but I'd like to know that they still work just in case.
Yes, I've seen that, but the doc I'm using came from:
http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/tutorial/X...HandC-V1_4.pdf
I've also seen elsewhere it mentioned that pins 18, 22 and 26 are all ground. A wire from pins 26-28 grounds pin 28, telling the XBOX HDTV (from the quoted doc), but that makes no sense for it to be hardwired.
In any case, my VGA cable has no connections to either pin 26 or 28. All it has, is a single jumper from pin 18 to 20. That is consistent with the doc to which I referred above. Even with just pin 18-20 jumpered, I still have the reset issue. I suppose I could cut that jumper and connect 22 to 24 and that would emulate what you guys have done with your component cables. 22 to 24 jumpered is the equivalent of the TV switch position on you guys' component cables.
I did ohm out an actual component cable to see how it's wired and what I found, raised more questions than it answered. Apparently not all component cables are wired the same, as the one I examined had the following connections:
pin 20 jumpered to 24 permanently regardles of switch selector.
pin 20, 22 and 24 connected when switch is in TV position.
pin 26 and pin 28 connected when switch is in HDTV position.
P.J.
http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/tutorial/X...HandC-V1_4.pdf
I've also seen elsewhere it mentioned that pins 18, 22 and 26 are all ground. A wire from pins 26-28 grounds pin 28, telling the XBOX HDTV (from the quoted doc), but that makes no sense for it to be hardwired.
In any case, my VGA cable has no connections to either pin 26 or 28. All it has, is a single jumper from pin 18 to 20. That is consistent with the doc to which I referred above. Even with just pin 18-20 jumpered, I still have the reset issue. I suppose I could cut that jumper and connect 22 to 24 and that would emulate what you guys have done with your component cables. 22 to 24 jumpered is the equivalent of the TV switch position on you guys' component cables.
I did ohm out an actual component cable to see how it's wired and what I found, raised more questions than it answered. Apparently not all component cables are wired the same, as the one I examined had the following connections:
pin 20 jumpered to 24 permanently regardles of switch selector.
pin 20, 22 and 24 connected when switch is in TV position.
pin 26 and pin 28 connected when switch is in HDTV position.
P.J.
An update here. I disassembled the VGA cable and removed the jumper between pins 18 and 20. Then I brought out pins 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 and 28 to a 3 slot dip switch, so that I could try any and all combinations. Pins 18 and 20 were connected to slot 1, while 22 and 24 went to slot 2 and 26 and 28 to slot 3. Connected the cable to the 360 with all 3 switches in the open position and it worked perfectly! Switching the TV between different inputs and then back to the 360HDMI, it does not reboot. I didn't bother to see what other combinations would work. Obviously if I want to use it as a VGA cable, I can just close switch 1 and leave the others in the open position.
P.J.
P.J.
Thanks for the update Valence01. So do you know exactly why cutting the jumper cable seems to work? Were you cable to verify exactly what the pins it connects actually do? It'd be more reassuring to me to know what I might potentially break on my cable by cutting the jumper wire before I actually do it.
Well, in the case of my VGA cable, cutting the jumper between pins 18 and 20, tells the 360 that this is NOT a VGA cable. The fact that neither of the other 2 possibilites is jumpered, tells the 360 that it isn't a composite, HDTV, or SCART connection either. Various combinations of the 3 possible jumpers, are for those. It isn't clear to me, in the case of the component cables described by others here, exactly how the TV/HDTV switch is wired to the pins, since the component cable that I examined is wired differently.
The worst thing that would happen if you cut any jumper on any of the pins 18 thru 28, is that the cable won't function correctly for the original use of the cable. That is, if it was an HDTV/TV cable, it may not work for that anymore. Since most people in this thread, are just trying to use the cable as a substitute for the "audio only" dongle, that shouldn't matter much, but if you still want the original function of the cable too, you may need to provide some means to reconnect the jumper.
As for the various combinations of jumpers and what they mean to the 360, there is some difference of opinion among the sources out there. Here's what I think, based on some testing and reports from others:
18-20 22-24 26-28
---------------------
-yes----yes----yes-----composite
-yes----yes----no------composite, no reboot
-yes----no-----yes-----???????
-yes----no-----no------VGA
-no-----yes----yes-----SCART (euro TV)
-no-----yes----no------composite
-no-----no-----yes-----HDTV (component)
-no-----no-----no------no audio, no reboot
The only one that I know works for sure to avoid the reset when switching TV input, is the one in the table labeled "Composite, no reboot". Well, the last one with no jumpers doesn't reboot either, but there's no optical audio in that case. That makes sense, as that's what you get with no cable attached at all (save for the HDMI).
So, if you have a component/composite cable, then removing the jumper between 26 and 28 is absolutely correct. I went back and double checked the component cable and there IS a jumper between 26 and 28, just like everyone else reported here. If you have a VGA cable, in addition to the jumper already present between pins 18 and 20, you need to put a jumper between 22 and 24. Could put a switch there, if you wanted to still be able to use it as a VGA cable sometimes.
P.J.
Well, in the case of my VGA cable, cutting the jumper between pins 18 and 20, tells the 360 that this is NOT a VGA cable. The fact that neither of the other 2 possibilites is jumpered, tells the 360 that it isn't a composite, HDTV, or SCART connection either. Various combinations of the 3 possible jumpers, are for those. It isn't clear to me, in the case of the component cables described by others here, exactly how the TV/HDTV switch is wired to the pins, since the component cable that I examined is wired differently.
The worst thing that would happen if you cut any jumper on any of the pins 18 thru 28, is that the cable won't function correctly for the original use of the cable. That is, if it was an HDTV/TV cable, it may not work for that anymore. Since most people in this thread, are just trying to use the cable as a substitute for the "audio only" dongle, that shouldn't matter much, but if you still want the original function of the cable too, you may need to provide some means to reconnect the jumper.
As for the various combinations of jumpers and what they mean to the 360, there is some difference of opinion among the sources out there. Here's what I think, based on some testing and reports from others:
18-20 22-24 26-28
---------------------
-yes----yes----yes-----composite
-yes----yes----no------composite, no reboot
-yes----no-----yes-----???????
-yes----no-----no------VGA
-no-----yes----yes-----SCART (euro TV)
-no-----yes----no------composite
-no-----no-----yes-----HDTV (component)
-no-----no-----no------no audio, no reboot
The only one that I know works for sure to avoid the reset when switching TV input, is the one in the table labeled "Composite, no reboot". Well, the last one with no jumpers doesn't reboot either, but there's no optical audio in that case. That makes sense, as that's what you get with no cable attached at all (save for the HDMI).
So, if you have a component/composite cable, then removing the jumper between 26 and 28 is absolutely correct. I went back and double checked the component cable and there IS a jumper between 26 and 28, just like everyone else reported here. If you have a VGA cable, in addition to the jumper already present between pins 18 and 20, you need to put a jumper between 22 and 24. Could put a switch there, if you wanted to still be able to use it as a VGA cable sometimes.
P.J.
Just like to thank all the previous posters for providing lots of insight into getting up the courage to mod my component cable to output optical only. Especially ryansdad for the pics ...Works great so far no issues.Hdmi for video,optical for audio (no hdmi input on my amp)In case it matters to someone falcon board benq drive 203w ps
Last night I finally got around to opening up my cable and turns out the wiring is different on my component cable. There is no black wire looping back to the connector, instead it appears that there are multiple wires connected to ground coming out from the plug. I am going to play around with it more tonight and see if I can figure out how its wired.
My Xbox 360 is a pretty new model, manufacture date is Oct 2007 I believe.
My Xbox 360 is a pretty new model, manufacture date is Oct 2007 I believe.
Bear in mind that pins 18, 22 and 26 are connected to ground on the 360 m'board. Pins 20, 24 and 28 are the ones that get connected to ground or nothing, depending on switch position. Any working component cable has a connection from pin 28 to ground. In the case of most cables seen so far, that connection is made with a small black jumper wire between pins 26 and 28. A connection from pin 28 to ANY ground will work just as well. It is this connection that must be disconnected in order to prevent the reboot issue when changing input on the TV away from HDMI input and then back to HDMI. That connection must be in place in order for the component outputs to work. So, if you want to use component and HDMI separately you need to find a way to switch the pin 28 to gnd connection depending if you are using component or HDMI.
P.J.
Bear in mind that pins 18, 22 and 26 are connected to ground on the 360 m'board. Pins 20, 24 and 28 are the ones that get connected to ground or nothing, depending on switch position. Any working component cable has a connection from pin 28 to ground. In the case of most cables seen so far, that connection is made with a small black jumper wire between pins 26 and 28. A connection from pin 28 to ANY ground will work just as well. It is this connection that must be disconnected in order to prevent the reboot issue when changing input on the TV away from HDMI input and then back to HDMI. That connection must be in place in order for the component outputs to work. So, if you want to use component and HDMI separately you need to find a way to switch the pin 28 to gnd connection depending if you are using component or HDMI.
P.J.
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