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you can't state anything is "boosted" without having a clear reference!
even if you don't have that many reflections, you have furniture, curtains etc. and all this stuff "absorbs" high frequencies.

you can do two or three control measurements:
a) with 90° calibration pointing to the ceiling
b) 90° pointing to the carpet
c) 0° pointing to one of the front speakers

if your measurement is really "fair" and usable as reference you should get exactly the same result for all of them or why is one better than the others?

as I mentioned before: measurements are fine, but not that easy and interpreting the results and drawing the correct conclusions is even harder...
 

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wanted to weigh in on the humming noise situation people have spoken of on the 3070...
Hadn't noticed it since the receiver is in a closet, but i was redoing my wiring the other day and there is a definite electrical hum that is coming from the unit. Not bothersome unless right next to it, and not noticeable at all when not in the closet, but it is there. May bother some if it is out in the open around the seating area, but only if it is dead quite
This is my experience too with my A2080. Although I have it out in the open and I cannot hear it unless I put my ear within about a foot. Notwithstanding, I am really liking all other aspects of this AVR, and the remote. So much so that I will probably keep it over the A3070 sitting next to me unopened because I could demo it cheaper, and wanted to check if it also has the fizz/hum :)
 

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This is a good example of why YPAO works as it does vs. Audyssey, Yamaha never wants to drastically change the timbre of a customers speakers which is why you prefer Through, you like the way they sound. That is a good thing, which is why they offer "Front" EQ which is their attempt at matching the timbre of your fronts to the remaining channels if you have them. Front EQ does not apply correction to your front channels.

Stick with through and use the tone controls in the option menu to make personal adjustments that you can save per scene or set back to default with no harm done

Also, the F12 subs work really well with the gain control around 11 o'clock. The gain control on the Rythmik's was designed to help blend in the fronts and is not designed to be a level or volume control for the sub which some subs are incorrectly labeled.
Thanks. I just re-positioned my sub to directly in front, in between my L/R's instead of a corner, upped the gain to about 12 o'clock, and will listen take look at the results and listen later on. I'm expecting the YPAO to have set my sub level lower, so that I can boost it a bit if needed from the AVR. I'll keep working on it. :)
 

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you can't state anything is "boosted" without having a clear reference!
even if you don't have that many reflections, you have furniture, curtains etc. and all this stuff "absorbs" high frequencies.

you can do two or three control measurements:
a) with 90° calibration pointing to the ceiling
b) 90° pointing to the carpet
c) 0° pointing to one of the front speakers

if your measurement is really "fair" and usable as reference you should get exactly the same result for all of them or why is one better than the others?

as I mentioned before: measurements are fine, but not that easy and interpreting the results and drawing the correct conclusions is even harder...
Thanks Mickey. I may be misunderstanding what your saying though. My apologies if that's the case.

My assertion is that YPAO is boosting the high frequencies for both FLAT and NATURAL results. My reference is the THROUGH measurement in which the high frequencies measure lower than YPAO's FLAT and NATURAL. I didn't move the microphone between my REW measurements.

Are you saying that a different microphone orientation might give different results? Maybe where the high frequencies in my THROUGH measurement are higher than YPAO's NATURAL? That could very well be true. I oriented the YPAO microphone the same as the UMIK microphone though; both pointed straight up and 90 degrees to the speakers and at the exact same position (within a half-inch or so). I agree that certainly a different microphone orientation will yield different results. I would also agree that it's possible that the measurement with THROUGH might even be higher than NATURAL but I think it's unlikely. I'm willing to try it though.
 

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This phenomenon with the high frequencies in Yamaha receivers goes back decades, I first learned of it and discovered it on a RX-V1800 which was released in the late 90's maybe early 2000's. It was widely discussed by enthusiast in some of the early stereo and hifi forums as well as the meets and seminars that Tweeter use to have back in its day. Remember the Tweeter stores?

We use to use test tones, an SPL meter and Excel to document and graph the response back then. Maybe that's where Yamaha developed its reputation of being a little bright or more clear sounding? Who knows?

There have been many folks who have posted graphs and readings on the Yamaha forums over the years all showing the same thing. Is it every ones room? If YPAO detected abnormally high frequency readings in the high registers, why wouldn't it create an impulse response to pull it down? It doesn't. I am thinking that YPAO is creating an impulse response of your front speakers and modeling all the channels to closely resemble them so that the timbre is very close through out all of your channels. It then tries to rectify any peaks and dips that it can. This would somewhat explain the elevated high frequencies, they were already there, YPAO pulled down the peaks in the mids therefore creating the readings that we are seeing.
 

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I'm guessing that you're in "Straight" mode, and you're getting occasional ads that aren't in Dolby Digital 5.1, but in 2.0. If the content is going through the AVR, use the INFO or on-screen display to show you what the incoming audio stream is.
I checked the input. It says 5.1, but the Dialog says 0db. How do I fix the dialog setting?
 

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YAMAHA RX3070 no DTS-HD / TRUE HD codecs in combination with Asrock Beebox (W10/Kodi)

Hi guys,

I can use some help. I replaced my "old" Onkyo TX-NR906 for a Yamaha RX-A3070. I wanted a receiver that is ready for 4K and the new audio codecs. (ATMOS DTS: X) some of the HD audio codecs were already supported on the onkyo.

My problem:

I connected an Asrock Barebone beebox S (kaby lake) on the Yamaha A3070 to the HDMI input (Highspeed) AV1. On this Beebox is running Windows 10 with Kodi (17.6) on it. I stream movies from my NAS. Movie enters the YAMAHA receiver via HDMI AV1 Iput. The Output1 is connected to my TV. The amplifier should detect which signal is offered and should play it. Now Since the Beebox has been connected to the Yamaha it does not work as I want. Only Dolby Digital and DTS are recognized. I obviously want the YAMAHA receiver to play other HD audio codecs as well. (DTS-MA, DTS-HD etc.) I do not use not fiber cable only HDMI

the system setting of Kodi shows that I use the WASAPI (default) drivers. Also that receiver supports DTS, Dolby Digital, DTS-MA and DTS-HD. Yet in some way DTS-MA and DTS-HD are not played. I have no sound with these formats. (of course I look if these codecs are in the movie that I offer at that moment)

The only thing I find strange in Kodi's settings is that I now see WASAPI default and WASAPI via PANASONIC. I had no success at all. with the Onkyo connected receiver I also had a setting that was WASAPI default and WASAPI via ONKYO TX-NR906. I would now expect a setting that said WASAPI through YAMAHA A3070 ...
When I look at the YAMAHA on screen settings it says that no sound is offered when. I play a movie with DTS-MA... The Yamaha is in straight mode, which is necessary for the HD codecs. The Onkyo played these codecs without problems. Do you have an idea why YAMAHA does not play these formats? The YAMAHA shows that no DTS-MA is offered. I'm pretty sure that HD-codecs are offered...I have searched a lot on the internet / forums. But I did not come across something that would help me on my way.


thanks

Luca
 

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Not exactly the same situation but some similarities.
I use a KabyLake NUC connected to the Yamaha RX-A2050.
The Yamaha is not picked up as Receiver in Kodi (17.6) but this is probably the of Windows.

When I open the Audio properties, only the TV is showing as Audio source and the built-in Realtek device.
First, run in Windows the Audio test under properties and make sure that you set the correct number of speakers. In my case 7.1 even I use 9 speakers.
Make also sure that Dolby Atmos and DTS-HD are listed in the Supported formates when open the Intel Display properties in Advanced Setup -> Sound. (Right-click on the speaker symbol)

In Kodi I never used Wasapi: default, I selected the Wasapi Intel Display Audio.
Also turn off Hyperthreading in the BIOS, no idea why the Yamaha doesn't like that.


Cheers
Tom


P.S. If you have Intel Graphics, make sure the latest Intel drivers are installed, currently 25.20.100.6373
 

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This phenomenon with the high frequencies in Yamaha receivers goes back decades, I first learned of it and discovered it on a RX-V1800
the 1800 used the "natural" setting as default, the newer ones are setup to "flat" if you don't change it manually after the YPAO setup.
from these days the Yamaha AVR have the reputation to sound a little bit restrained at higher frequencies.

I am thinking that YPAO is creating an impulse response of your front speakers and modeling all the channels to closely resemble them so that the timbre is very close through out all of your channels. It then tries to rectify any peaks and dips that it can. This would somewhat explain the elevated high frequencies, they were already there, YPAO pulled down the peaks in the mids therefore creating the readings that we are seeing.
YPAO is not really "creating" an impulse response, it operates in the frequency range only and tries to don't touch the phase.
if you chose "front" the front speakers are not touched at all and YPAO tries to align the frequency response of all other speakers to the front as good as possible.
"flat" and "natural" handle each speaker individually without utilizing any other speaker as "reference".
Frequency response ist not impulse response.
 

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My assertion is that YPAO is boosting the high frequencies for both FLAT and NATURAL results. My reference is the THROUGH measurement in which the high frequencies measure lower than YPAO's FLAT and NATURAL. I didn't move the microphone between my REW measurements.

Are you saying that a different microphone orientation might give different results?
the position, type (Yamaha vs. Umik-1), characteristic (especially directivity) and so on!

every "normal" room absorbs the higher frequencies more than the middle ones. YPAO tries to correct that, completely in "flat", a little bit for "natural" but not for "through" since that means no (frequency) correction.
if you compare flat/natural with through it "seems like" the first boost the treble. Actually there is no boost but just a correction to get a linear frequency response.

i have a Yamaha and a Marantz (XT32) in parallel and the corrections are quite similar. XT32 uses "natural" as default which is quite the same as YPAOs natural. So you need to switch both to natural ore flat to do a fair comparison but then they are not that different.
 

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I checked the input. It says 5.1, but the Dialog says 0db. How do I fix the dialog setting?
Look in your manual for “Dialog Adjust” to boost the center. But it could be that some TV stations play ads that are 2.0 through a 5.1 broadcast stream. Use Dolby Surround for those.
 

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YAMAHA RX3070 no DTS-HD / TRUE HD codecs in combination with Asrock Beebox (W10/Kodi)

problem solved! :) Your problem was not exactly what I had, but your response did provide the solution to my problem.
The problem with me was that the windows sound setting pointed to a wireless device for sound ...
I have changed that after I did the windows problem solver for sound.
This allowed me to adjust the config for windows.
I was hopeful because I saw the number of channels I had selected on the yamaha display. Kodi started up -> played a DEMO blueray with DTS-MA / Atmos
My living room was shaking, Brilliant! Again, thanks for your help. PS I also installed the last drivers you mentioned

BR Luca
 

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Does anyone here happen to use external amps (Emotiva for example) with their 3070? I am going with a 7.2.4 Atmos setup - so I purchased both an Emotiva XPA-7 and A-5175. The XPA-7 will handle the 7 main channels while the A-5175 will handle the 4 atmos height channels overhead. I have not yet connected the amps (still doign some work on the room and having additional electrical work done early next week as well).

If you do use an amp with the 3070 - any issues or pointers for me to be aware of? I've been thinking uf upgrading the 3070 to somethign else...I'm just not sure what.
 

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Does anyone here happen to use external amps (Emotiva for example) with their 3070? I am going with a 7.2.4 Atmos setup - so I purchased both an Emotiva XPA-7 and A-5175. The XPA-7 will handle the 7 main channels while the A-5175 will handle the 4 atmos height channels overhead. I have not yet connected the amps (still doign some work on the room and having additional electrical work done early next week as well).

If you do use an amp with the 3070 - any issues or pointers for me to be aware of? I've been thinking uf upgrading the 3070 to somethign else...I'm just not sure what.
I'm a die-hard Yamaha guy,
so the next step up over the 3070 would be an CX-A5200 pre/pro

But If I had 13 external amps already, and deep pockets...
I'd just go with a Marantz AV8805 Pre/Pro (Capable of 7.2.6 or 9.2.4) and be done with it.
(also Future Proof with a HW upgrade to HDMI 2.1 when ready)

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2930176-marantz-av8805-15-2-xlr-pre-pro-official-thread.html

:wink:
 

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I'm a die-hard Yamaha guy,
so the next step up over the 3070 would be an CX-A5200 pre/pro

But If I had 13 external amps already, and deep pockets...
I'd just go with a Marantz AV8805 Pre/Pro (Capable of 7.2.6 or 9.2.4) and be done with it.
(also Future Proof with a HW upgrade to HDMI 2.1 when ready)

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2930176-marantz-av8805-15-2-xlr-pre-pro-official-thread.html

:wink:
lol You DO have deep pockets. I've seen your system.
 

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lol You DO have deep pockets. I've seen your system.
LOL! I should have said deeper

I'm in recovery mode for a while waiting on HDMI 2.1 before the next round of upgrades.


The Marantz I Really want, 15.2Ch 8805 is $6K alone (in Canada) :eek:
But I would also have to buy a couple Marantz 8077 amps (to match) at $3K ea

...$12K is a lot vs my $2K RX-A3070 ($10K richer for 2 less channels...I'm good, for now)
 

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“Through” is by far my preferred setting, especially for music. Flat and Natural are too harsh
 

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I'm a die-hard Yamaha guy,
so the next step up over the 3070 would be an CX-A5200 pre/pro

But If I had 13 external amps already, and deep pockets...
I'd just go with a Marantz AV8805 Pre/Pro (Capable of 7.2.6 or 9.2.4) and be done with it.
(also Future Proof with a HW upgrade to HDMI 2.1 when ready)

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2930176-marantz-av8805-15-2-xlr-pre-pro-official-thread.html

:wink:
You'd pick the 5200 over the 5100? I thought you weren't keen on the 2018 models?
 

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You'd pick the 5200 over the 5100? I thought you weren't keen on the 2018 models?
For myself, not at all, I was answering this question...

I've been thinking uf upgrading the 3070 to somethign else...I'm just not sure what.
There is almost zero benefit in mdbunting choosing the CX-A5100 over his current 3070,
and the CX-A5100 is almost 4 years old, so not even sure he would be able to find a new unit, so the 5200 is more likely available.

The Marantz pre/pro still gets my vote, if he's got the $$$$
 
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