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Well, it is easier to simply click on the quote button than most any other way of replying. :)

Oh, and I only use UPSes in critical applications, such as my network file servers and my projector (sudden loss of power is hard on its bulb). I find that often the UPS becomes a problem when its battery fails and for my A/V systems I am concerned about protecting them from surges, not keeping them up in a power outage. The advantage of the Brick Wall Surge Protectors is that they don't use MOVs for their protection which typically only survive a single surge. They use massive inductors that aren't damaged by surges.
 

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Well, I only click Quick Reply two buttons to the right. ;)

And my UPS doesn't have a capacity problem with these batteries! Dual 12V 85 aH. :D I can run the server, the HTPC (pretty sharp one with i9 and GeForce card) for four hours and the server and network equipment alone for 7! I have been considering a cable into the hush box, but that's in another room, 15 meters away. Btw this is a Smart UPS with a true sinus wave output, so it "cleans" the power. It's just that with at least three big amps running at the same time when I watch movies (3070, 2070 and RX-V3067) it is above the 1500 watt ceiling of the unit, so I would have to buy a bigger one to have those in there as well.

 

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My problem with batteries in UPSes is that they will eventually fail and you will have to replace them. Also, with a number of the UPSes I have owned over the decades when the batteries fail they can shut down the output power for some reason. I really don't need any of my A/V gear to stay up in a power outage (I haven't experienced a brownout in the 44 years that I've lived here) with the exception of the projector so I have a UPS for it. My multiple computer systems supporting my local network are a different situation and I have UPSes for them.
 

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I know all about UPS batteries shorting the power, yeah. That's one of the reasons I now have car batteries instead. I think what happens is that the small battery cells get warmer and warmer when charged over time because they need more juice to stay charged. Then the internal walls collapse, and you have a short circuit. That doesn't happen in a large car battery (I use the combined deep cycle batteries, a regular start battery doesn't last long in a setup like this) becaue they are meant to be used heavily and practically can't short circuit internally. One of my previuos UPS batteries actually started to leak because the heat gave it high internal pressure. Oh, and of course the Smart UPS will stop lightning strikes and other, similar unusual spikes going to the system. Since I have fibre broadband and a plastic sattellite dish the power grid is the only place where the ligtning can get in. :D
 

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Will connecting the trigger out (12V) from three different amps (one Onkyo and two Yamaha, a 2070 and an RX-V2067) damage anything? I'm asking because I have found a NAD 216 (six channel bridgeable power amp) to drive three subs in my house, in the bathroom, my office and outdoors. And since I don't want it to be on constantly I'm going to use a relay on the power cable to turn it on and off (with 250V switching and 12V trigging). That way the amp will be powered only when at least one of the amps need it. If I can run them together into the same trigger, it's very easy. If not I'll have to run three different 12V car relays on the trigger outs and let those relays open or close for an external 12V PSU, which of course is a lot more. But I don't want to take any chances. So can having 12V power in on a trigger out from one of the other amps damage something? Of course I will make sure to sort ground and positive together, it's not my first rodeo (the expression seemed fitting before Super Tuesday in Texas). :D
 

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:confused:3070 help needed! Spotify & Net Radio will not work. While troubleshooting I discovered that the wired internet port does not work, but wireless does. The receiver has a static IP address. Firmware version is 2.70. I also have a RX-A660 that works just fine.

Symptoms
Yamaha AV Controller - All controls work.
MusicCast - Controls (can be turned on/off, volume up/down, input changed etc.) and Airplay work.
Spotify - Says connecting, but never does. Then the 3070 disappears from the list of available devices.
Net Radio - Search option is not visible.

Steps taken
Reset to factory settings (Initialize All) - done

Yamaha support says, take it to a repair facility. Life without the heart of my system will be hard, so I'm looking for any way possible to come up with a fix.

Thanks,
EdL
 

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Technical names, please.
I'm guessing oldshield is referencing the Movie Theater 1 and 2 DSP modes based on the description from his RX-V1000 user manual:



You would have to look to the new Yamaha's manual to find descriptions of the current DSP modes offered in the RX-AX070 models
Source: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-a3070_u/downloads.html

Snip from the RX-A3070 manual shows 7 different Movie DSP modes:



BTW oldshield, the Yamaha 70 series AVR's have been out of production for almost 2 years now, replaced with the 80 series in 2018.
 

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I'm guessing oldshield is referencing the Movie Theater 1 and 2 DSP modes based on the description from his RX-V1000 user manual:



You would have to look to the new Yamaha's manual to find descriptions of the current DSP modes offered in the RX-AX070 models
Source: https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-a3070_u/downloads.html

BTW oldshield, the Yamaha 70 series AVR's have been out of production for almost 2 years now, replaced with the 80 series in 2018
Good show. You are way more dedicated than I am.
 

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Hi, I need some advise on speaker connecting.

Currently I have 5.1.2 and using bi amp for the front speaker.

I have use F presence channel for bi amp for my front speaker.
R presence for front height speaker.

Can I use the surround back channel as rear height speaker?

If yes, how should I set the amp configuration in my amplifier?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
 

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Which model are you referring to, and Did you read the manual?

When the 9 internal amps are configured for 5.1.4
the Back Surround channels are totally disabled,
So No, you cannot re-assign them for anything else.

In regards to Bi-Amping,
Unless you are using external amps and an external crossover system...
The AVR's internal amplifiers all share a common power supply.
So there is ZERO sonic benefit in splitting that power up when feeding your front speakers.

You can take a gallon of water and split that into 8 pints at 16 oz each
or you can pour out 16 cups at 8 oz each, the end result is the exact same volume.

Ditch your Bi-Amp misconceptions, Setup with Basic Amp assignment and configure your system as 5.1.4
Use the Front presence channel for Front Height speakers and Rear Presence channel for Rear Height speakers.
 

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Hi I am using A3070 using external power amp as well.

For A3070, is there any way to have front height and 4 X ceiling for Atmos?

I am trying to see what the optimal usage for this amplifier.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
 

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Hi I am using A3070 using external power amp as well.

For A3070, is there any way to have front height and 4 X ceiling for Atmos?

I am trying to see what the optimal usage for this amplifier.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
No.

Maximum 4 height channels.

The remaining 7, if used, must feed ear level speakers.

Cheers.
 

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I've got dual PB2000s and I'm relatively happy with the performance, although would like more tactile bass.

I ordered a miniDSP 2x4HD, but I'm wondering if it will offer significant better EQ vs. utilizing YPAO or using REW with the Umik-1 with manually adjusting EQ.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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What source device(s)? What type source content? Cables is the most likely cause.
Periodic HDCP handshakes getting dropped is the usual cause of audio/video dropouts.
I have the same issue...periodic audio dropouts when streaming from my Roku with audio coming back to my Yamaha RX-A3020 via the ARC HDMI port.


I tried everything one could think of with no luck (including buying ridiculously expensive HDMI cables).


I finally gave up on ARC and CEC and bought a HDFury AVR Key which separates the HDMI video and audio channels and I then connected the HDMI video to the TV (LG C9) and the HDMI audio directly to the RX-A3020. I had to turn off CEC on both the TV and Yamaha but i no longer have the dropouts.



The only downside is that i can't use the built-in Netflix or Amazon apps on the LG C9 because i had to turn off ARC, so i lost Dolby Vision since the Roku only does HDR10. I figure that's a small price to pay to get Dolby Digital+ instead of just Dolby Digital over an optical cable. If i really want Dolby Vision, I guess i can always buy an Apple TV to replace the Roku.


Maybe next year i'll replace the old RX-A3020 with a 3070 or 3080 which i suppose would solve all the problems, but I am still recovering from the LG C9 purchase :)
 
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