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Chrome is correct. Please take any deals, street pricing or where to buy to the deals sticky or deals forum.
My apologies. I'm a bit confused. I didn't ask for a deal or price. I only asked for a reference for a dealer. I'm subscribed to other threads were dealers are recommended based on the customer service and shipping reliability. Is this an AVS rule that I'm breaking?
 

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My apologies. I'm a bit confused. I didn't ask for a deal or price. I only asked for a reference for a dealer. I'm subscribed to other threads were dealers are recommended based on the customer service and shipping reliability. Is this an AVS rule that I'm breaking?
No worries, but if you opened up the link, you'd see this


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We do not allow price discussions or "where to buy" X receiver/amp etc in this forum. We have added this sticky

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post54630702

for those discussions and questions. We have a "great deals" forum (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/122-great-found-deals/) for that discussion too.

If pricing and other related discussions continue, you'll receive an infraction and maybe banned from participating in that thread


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They don't want the tech forum to turn into street pricing or where to buy/dealer discussions.
 

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Chrome is correct. Please take any deals, street pricing or where to buy to the deals sticky or deals forum.
No worries, but if you opened up the link, you'd see this


***************************************************
We do not allow price discussions or "where to buy" X receiver/amp etc in this forum. We have added this sticky

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-rec...l#post54630702

for those discussions and questions. We have a "great deals" forum (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/122-great-found-deals/) for that discussion too.

If pricing and other related discussions continue, you'll receive an infraction and maybe banned from participating in that thread


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They don't want the tech forum to turn into street pricing or where to buy/dealer discussions.
Thank you for the clarification. I did open the link, but interpreted it different. I thought saying where to buy was referred to members saying you should buy this model from this person at this price.
 

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Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.

Anybody have a reference for Yamaha dealer. I
What's your location?

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Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.
I believe that would depend on how much you use/rely on the DTS decoding. Myself, I prefer Dolby Surround in my environment so don't use DTX Neural:X.
 

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I believe that would depend on how much you use/rely on the DTS decoding. Myself, I prefer Dolby Surround in my environment so don't use DTX Neural:X.
I've seen a lot of times the dsu not really utilizing the top channels whereas dts does use them.
Also in dsu the height speakers are limited to left and right in stereo mode. So in case you're running 4 on top, it'll profuse same sound in both the left and both the right speakers, whereas dts can actually run a .4 discrete channel
Read
https://www.highdefdigest.com/blog/dolby-dts-auro-surround-sound-upmixer-comparison/

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Even when you pair something with a new device, be sure to DELETE the pairing from the previous device. I can't speak to the menus (p.133 ?), but in the AVR, ensure you've removed the remembered paring with the Jambox.

Try the AVR's advanced settings web interface at http://[ip address of AVR]/Setup/ . The specific page may differ from model to model.

I have deleted the paring in the aspect that the paired devices only show the yellow check mark on the 'devices' page which doesn't show in the manual - it only appears when you actually search to connect a device. It shows all paired devices and the yellow check mark is next to the device I want to use. There are other devices present on this screen and that's where I'm think the issue may lie - even though only one device has the check mark denoting active, other devices are present and when I turn on the other device the current device loses connectivity - like the AVR is trying to connect to two devices which is why I wanted to delete the other device.


FWIW I did speak to Yamaha and they said the only way to remove a paired device was to perform a hard reset using a series of button presses from the main panel - not the remote. They did send me the series of commands just haven't gone there yet.
 

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Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.
I believe that would depend on how much you use/rely on the DTS decoding. Myself, I prefer Dolby Surround in my environment so don't use DTX Neural:X.
I've seen a lot of times the dsu not really utilizing the top channels whereas dts does use them.
Also in dsu the height speakers are limited to left and right in stereo mode. So in case you're running 4 on top, it'll profuse same sound in both the left and both the right speakers, whereas dts can actually run a .4 discrete channel
Read
https://www.highdefdigest.com/blog/dolby-dts-auro-surround-sound-upmixer-comparison/
I also prefer Neural:X because I think it sounds crystal clear while by comparison the DSU sounds muddy to me. Never went so far as to figure out why. I just keep the surround decoder set to Neural:X and turn it off and on using the Straight button next to the Surround Decode button ("SUR. DECODE") - I avoid using the Surround Decode button itself because that toggles through all the DSP choices.

I keep it set by default to Straight, but if Display shows that the film doesn't use Atmos or X a quick tap of the Straight button turns on Neural:X. Exception: if I know a film is in 2.0, I use the all channel stereo option - what I think of as "Car Stereo" mode: it ties all channels on each side of the room together. On the 3070 it's called "9 Channel Stereo" (though it really should be called "11").

But the original poster's question really should be answered, since I thought Dolby had recently agreed to drop its ban on using other upmixers on their tracks.
 
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I also prefer Neural:X because I think it sounds crystal clear while by comparison the DSU sounds muddy to me. Never went so far as to figure out why. I just keep the surround decoder set to Neural:X and turn it off and on using the Straight button next to the Surround Decode button ("SUR. DECODE") - I avoid using the Surround Decode button itself because that toggles through all the DSP choices.



I keep it set by default to Straight, but if Display shows that the film doesn't use Atmos or X a quick tap of the Straight button turns on Neural:X. Exception: if I know a film is in 2.0, I use the all channel stereo option - what I think of as "Car Stereo" mode: it ties all channels on each side of the room together. On the 3070 it's called "9 Channel Stereo" (though it really should be called "11").



But the original poster's question really should be answered, since I thought Dolby had recently agreed to drop its ban on using other upmixers on their tracks.
I think the dsu will give effects to even a 2.0 track, just not sure how good it'll go to heights. You could try the legacy dsurr/dts by leaving it in auto throughout. A lot of the new re-release uhd blu ray switched from DTS 5.1 HD to Atmos and most people myself included found it sounding awful. 9 channel stereo is only for radio/casual listening imo.

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Hey folks, question - although I am sure it's nothing to do with my AVR but rather other technology. I was watching remember the titans on BR disk, my player decided to default to 5.1DD. My 2070 and 820 both displayed DD encoding. There was an audio option in the disk menu for 5.1DD uncompressed so I picked that thinking it should be better. Oddly, the AVR just displayed PCM after that with no other indicators of surround mode. Also, my player also did not display any surround decode info. I don't understand this behavior, any ideas?


(I just left it in 5.1 uncompressed without jumping back and fourth trying to determine which is better, my wife was already in the room and she is extremely impatient to me attempting to learn about these things)
 

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Is the DTS decoding removal for dolby tracks, a reason enough to stick to A3070 instead of A3080?
One of my friend is looking and I suggested Yamaha, being a happy customer of A3070 for 2 years now.

This is one of the reasons I kept my old A2050 as well. Setting aside all the DSU vs DTS:X comparisons, the basic encoding/decoding fabric has led me to a virtual "Chinese wall" between the 2. That is, I tend to use DSU for Dolby-based soundtracks and Neural:X for DTS-based soundtracks. Having said that, I almost never use DSU for anything--instead favoring some of the Yamaha DSP modes (Adventure/Sci-Fi/etc). Neural:X really shines on some "custom" DTS soundtracks, like the older Star Wars (1-6) and T2 6.1 mixes.
 

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Hey folks, question - although I am sure it's nothing to do with my AVR but rather other technology. I was watching remember the titans on BR disk, my player decided to default to 5.1DD. My 2070 and 820 both displayed DD encoding. There was an audio option in the disk menu for 5.1DD uncompressed so I picked that thinking it should be better. Oddly, the AVR just displayed PCM after that with no other indicators of surround mode. Also, my player also did not display any surround decode info. I don't understand this behavior, any ideas?


(I just left it in 5.1 uncompressed without jumping back and fourth trying to determine which is better, my wife was already in the room and she is extremely impatient to me attempting to learn about these things)
I guess it's more to do with the player not able to decode the track properly, have you tried the Surr Auto? Probably will default to Dsurr (DSU)


This is one of the reasons I kept my old A2050 as well. Setting aside all the DSU vs DTS:X comparisons, the basic encoding/decoding fabric has led me to a virtual "Chinese wall" between the 2. That is, I tend to use DSU for Dolby-based soundtracks and Neural:X for DTS-based soundtracks. Having said that, I almost never use DSU for anything--instead favoring some of the Yamaha DSP modes (Adventure/Sci-Fi/etc). Neural:X really shines on some "custom" DTS soundtracks, like the older Star Wars (1-6) and T2 6.1 mixes.
Hate all these brand wars that have started forcing brands and promotions over others. Like the compulsory Netflix dedicated button that needs to exist in remotes for licensing Netflix services. From that day I've stopped my Netflix subscription and reprogrammed the dedicated button as a shortcut to Spotify. All Tvs and all Shields. Easy to do it in Android TV OS.
I just don't like hard sells and compulsory weights. I do miss a few shows and I'm sure that Netflix isn't going to shut down coz I unsubscribed, but I do right by me...

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Hate all these brand wars that have started forcing brands and promotions over others. Like the compulsory Netflix dedicated button that needs to exist in remotes for licensing Netflix services. From that day I've stopped my Netflix subscription and reprogrammed the dedicated button as a shortcut to Spotify. All Tvs and all Shields. Easy to do it in Android TV OS.
I just don't like hard sells and compulsory weights. I do miss a few shows and I'm sure that Netflix isn't going to shut down coz I unsubscribed, but I do right by me...
On my new Shield I used the Button Mapper app (from the built-in Google Play Store link) to simply de-activate a single press of the Neflix button - which is large, raised, and easily hit by accident, taking you out of whatever's playing. I set it for
One press=No action
Double press=App Switcher
Press and Hold=Setup menu.
 

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Would be nice if someone answered the original poster's question about whether the x080 series allows Neural:X to be used on Dolby soundracks.
 

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Would be nice if someone answered the original poster's question about whether the x080 series allows Neural:X to be used on Dolby soundracks.
Posting in the x080 thread might be a good place to start.
 

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Posting in the x080 thread might be a good place to start.
OK thanks I'll do that.



On my new Shield I used the Button Mapper app (from the built-in Google Play Store link) to simply de-activate a single press of the Neflix button - which is large, raised, and easily hit by accident, taking you out of whatever's playing. I set it for

One press=No action

Double press=App Switcher

Press and Hold=Setup menu.
Using the same app.

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Hi, I call an RX-A3070 my own, which replaced my RX-V3067 when I switched to an LG 65C8 and needed everything 4K ready. Besides the subpar and slow UI, which every 20 EUR device with UI can do better, I am quite happy.

I just have one problem to solve, I want to be able to use the amp as audio device on my Windows 10 PC. A HDMI connection would be the easiest way, but that's at the moment not possible. Using the "Server" function is more or less useless with a larger audio library and I am limited to formats, which the amp can read.

In the past I used AirFoil which allows to stream audio to an AirPlay device, but that stopped working some day. The logical solution would be some Windows MusicCast server, but seems Yamaha is only promoting more and more MusicCast hardware and does not care for the software side. At least I was not able to find a Windows MusicCast app/server.

My last idea was, to connect the RX-A3070 as a Bluetooth speaker, but my Windows is not able to find the amp as audio device. Can I connect the amp as USB device?

I simply want to be able to route audio from any Windows 10 application to the amp. Best solution would be in form of an audio device, because this would allow this per application option and would not collide with other setups running on my PC.

Does anyone have a solution or should I fiddle out a way to connect via HDMI? But having another display device on my setup (triple monitors plus VR), when I just need audio is overkill, not speaking of problems like turning off displays after x minutes killing the audio link and so on.
 

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Hi, I call an RX-A3070 my own, which replaced my RX-V3067 when I switched to an LG 65C8 and needed everything 4K ready. Besides the subpar and slow UI, which every 20 EUR device with UI can do better, I am quite happy.

I just have one problem to solve, I want to be able to use the amp as audio device on my Windows 10 PC. A HDMI connection would be the easiest way, but that's at the moment not possible. Using the "Server" function is more or less useless with a larger audio library and I am limited to formats, which the amp can read.

In the past I used AirFoil which allows to stream audio to an AirPlay device, but that stopped working some day. The logical solution would be some Windows MusicCast server, but seems Yamaha is only promoting more and more MusicCast hardware and does not care for the software side. At least I was not able to find a Windows MusicCast app/server.

My last idea was, to connect the RX-A3070 as a Bluetooth speaker, but my Windows is not able to find the amp as audio device. Can I connect the amp as USB device?

I simply want to be able to route audio from any Windows 10 application to the amp. Best solution would be in form of an audio device, because this would allow this per application option and would not collide with other setups running on my PC.

Does anyone have a solution or should I fiddle out a way to connect via HDMI? But having another display device on my setup (triple monitors plus VR), when I just need audio is overkill, not speaking of problems like turning off displays after x minutes killing the audio link and so on.
So I am a li'l confused. Maybe it's the sleep. You want to play media from your pc to the receiver, eg movies TV music etc? I'd suggest buying an nvidia shield and that li'l bugger has an app to play a thing and everything. I personally use plex and I have a huge collection of media that I view. Another option with nvidia shield is kodi.

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