AVS Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody,

I'm selling my house and moving come the fall, so I've found myself needing to downsize my LFE, which is currently a Danley DTS-10 in order to handle rental living for the following year and have an acceptable GAF. So after much research I ended up ordering a SI HT18D2 and a DIYSG 4cu flatpack last night. I think this should keep the girlfriend happier than a giant 300lb unfinished plywood box, that I really don't want to move 3 times in the next year and half or so before we can seriously settle into a long term home together, and I can resume my AV addiction. So I'm just going to layout what I've bought and what I plan to buy, and I'd love an suggestions or insight from previous builders.

Stuff I have:
Si HT18D2(plan on running this as a 4ohm load)
4cu Flatpack
Binding posts
Crown XTI-1000 for power and eq duties.

Stuff I'll need.
Glue( I used PL on the Danley, and I hated working with it, any suggestions)
Paint? Duratex,bedliner, restore 4x. open to suggestions.
Polyfil, I've read conflicting opinions on the need/how much.
Any tips on EQ, I run a 2.1 setup and my mains are strong down to the 45hz range, I currently cross the danley at 60hz using a 48db L/R.
Having never built a sealed sub, it seems fairly straight forward, but if there anything beyond insuring a perfect seal that I should know going forward.

Thanks, I will update this thread as my parts come in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,338 Posts
Hey everybody,

I'm selling my house and moving come the fall, so I've found myself needing to downsize my LFE, which is currently a Danley DTS-10 in order to handle rental living for the following year and have an acceptable GAF. So after much research I ended up ordering a SI HT18D2 and a DIYSG 4cu flatpack last night. I think this should keep the girlfriend happier than a giant 300lb unfinished plywood box, that I really don't want to move 3 times in the next year and half or so before we can seriously settle into a long term home together, and I can resume my AV addiction. So I'm just going to layout what I've bought and what I plan to buy, and I'd love an suggestions or insight from previous builders.

Stuff I have:
Si HT18D2(plan on running this as a 4ohm load)
4cu Flatpack
Binding posts
Crown XTI-1000 for power and eq duties.

Stuff I'll need.
Glue( I used PL on the Danley, and I hated working with it, any suggestions)
Paint? Duratex,bedliner, restore 4x. open to suggestions.
Polyfil, I've read conflicting opinions on the need/how much.
Any tips on EQ, I run a 2.1 setup and my mains are strong down to the 45hz range, I currently cross the danley at 60hz using a 48db L/R.
Having never built a sealed sub, it seems fairly straight forward, but if there anything beyond insuring a perfect seal that I should know going forward.

Thanks, I will update this thread as my parts come in.
I just used Titebond II on the 2 boxes I put together this week and will use it on a 3rd next week. I think it's a great product and know others have used it with good results as well.

The general rule on stuffing sealed boxes from my understanding is roughly 1 pound per cubic foot, so you're looking at 4 pounds give or take.

Duratex seems to the the consensus favorite around here, but there have been more and more posts from guys that have used Restore 4x (and 10x) lately that really like the product. I'm actually still undecided on what I'm going to finish my boxes with. Probably going to start with a can of Rust-O-Leum black hammered paint/primer in 1 since it was only $7 and I've got it already. If I don't like the look I'll just go over top of it with another product.

Not really sure about where to cross over the sub, seems most guys shoot for around 80hz.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I've used Titebond I and III. Both work well for putting MDF flat packs together.

Depending on what you want out of the sub you may find you need to boost the lower end a bit with EQ to compensate especially since you are coming from a DTS-10. For crossover, since it sounds like you have good mains 80hz is probably a good starting point.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,686 Posts
I used titebond to on my build along with pl construction adhesive they both worked great. I found that when putting on my 2nd baffle on were the sub sits titebond worked better and is easy to cover the whole piece of mdf vs. the pl.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the glue suggestions. Fedex tried to deliver my HT18 today when I was at work, so I have to go pick it up at their facility tomorrow. I also just got my notice that DIYSG shipped my flatpack, I am excited. Debating whether I should even bother trying to power this thing with my crown or if I should sell the xti and buy an Inuke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything came in today. Thanks to User Corradizo for his clampless build thread, I ended up doing the same.


Excellent packing job DIYSG!


All my supplies and a dry fit check.



Taped and supports glued, thank to help of a SX-850.



All pieces lined up and glued, I'll prob let it cure overnight before I silicone all the seems. The SI HT18 is still sitting in the box upstairs, it's freaking huge. Next weekend, I'll sand/paint/fill/and wire it. I already want a 2nd one.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/members/8153519-corradizo.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Man these builds really have me thinking about selling my dual PB1000's and moving to an SI18 and then adding a second later...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Hey everybody,

I'm selling my house and moving come the fall, so I've found myself needing to downsize my LFE, which is currently a Danley DTS-10 in order to handle rental living for the following year and have an acceptable GAF. So after much research I ended up ordering a SI HT18D2 and a DIYSG 4cu flatpack last night. I think this should keep the girlfriend happier than a giant 300lb unfinished plywood box, that I really don't want to move 3 times in the next year and half or so before we can seriously settle into a long term home together, and I can resume my AV addiction. So I'm just going to layout what I've bought and what I plan to buy, and I'd love an suggestions or insight from previous builders.

Stuff I have:
Si HT18D2(plan on running this as a 4ohm load)
4cu Flatpack
Binding posts
Crown XTI-1000 for power and eq duties.

Stuff I'll need.
Glue( I used PL on the Danley, and I hated working with it, any suggestions)
Paint? Duratex,bedliner, restore 4x. open to suggestions.
Polyfil, I've read conflicting opinions on the need/how much.
Any tips on EQ, I run a 2.1 setup and my mains are strong down to the 45hz range, I currently cross the danley at 60hz using a 48db L/R.
Having never built a sealed sub, it seems fairly straight forward, but if there anything beyond insuring a perfect seal that I should know going forward.

Thanks, I will update this thread as my parts come in.

I use Titebond II. Menards had a good deal on a 1 gallon and I have a bunch left over for the future.

As far as paint.. I'm still battling that myself. I'm interested in Duratex or Restore 4x. Parts Express has the best deal on Duratex with their free shipping on orders $98+.

I use to run 4lbs of polyfill when I was running 2 SI HT 18 in DIYSG 4.0 boxes. When I upgraded to 4 SI I just took the extra 2lbs of leftover and give each box 2.5lbs. I still run this amount with my 8 SI's. I noticed they sounded a bit better with 4lbs, but nothing to get work up over especially if you EQ. I do plan on getting another 10lb box of poly and giving each box another 1.25lbs. 3.75lbs should be perfect going by personal preference alone.

As far as the seal of the HT18's go, I found the rubber gasket to leak air on a few of my 18's. I only remember hearing leaks when playing a 5Hz test tone at high volume. I plan on using weather stripping (w/ plastic side up) instead of closed foam and here's why: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...ffects-air-leaks-sealed-sub.html#post30636874

As far as EQing, you'll gonna need some measuring tools such as a MiniDSP's UMIK-1 USB mic and REW (Room EQ) software otherwise you'll just be guessing. If you can spring the extra, get it calibrated at Cross.Spectrum.

Most cross their speakers over at 80hz, but with the measuring tools noted above you can find what works best in your room and speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Must be nice buying a flat pack and not even having to make any cuts lol.

Just curious, how well do those fit together? do you still need to router the edges with a flush trim bit or are they a perfect fit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
I used duct seal for a gasket on my MFW15's.
Sorry, but is that like putty or something? I have some weather sealing putty I used for smaller drivers in the past, but I fear getting my SIs stuck like closed cell did to Popalock. I'm thinking it should be good, but is it really at preventing stuckage of large drivers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,646 Posts
Electricians use it, you can buy a block of it at Lowes/HD.
It is like putty, you have to take a slice/rip it, and form around/under the flange- probably similar to what you have.

I assume it could be a pain to get the driver out, but I don't think it'd be that much of a big deal.
I'll most likely use it on my HT18's when I build those as well, although I haven't opened the boxes to see the gasket they provide....my MFW15's didn't have a gasket, so I bought duct seal and I'm confident the seal is excellent....
I'll know how much of a pain it is soon, as I'll be ripping out the drivers to paint the subs when it gets warmer.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top