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Discussion Starter #1
I found an old thread about 07MS/SD187 tubes in E-home ECP projos. Here is an excerpt

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The difference between the 2 tubes as explained to me by Wayne Bickly at E-home years ago when they initially released them, was an improved phosphor coating for increased brightness and durability, and redesigned cathode grids also for slightly improved performance (although I can't remember why). The slight change in the way the tubes perform is the reason you have to cut off the inner plastic flanges of the defl and conv yokes and combine them together for improved convergence range, and replace the CRT sockets with the High Altitude sockets (otherwise you can get an occasional arc - very discomforting). The stig/flare rings also need this slight shift forward for max beam spot performance. Without these mod's, you can still get this thing aligned, but you won't realize max performance. In every upgraded ECP I have done (which numbers into the above 500 territory - Jeez, I'm tired), I have seen a noticeable improvement over an equally new sd-187 setup. IMHO, they're pretty nice tubes.... hope that helps
Can someone explain, in detail, what needs to be done? I had bought a complete new set of 187's for my ECP400, and UPS broke them, (imagine that!). Anyway, I have a claim in with UPS, and I figure if I am going to get them replaced, it might as well be with the 07's. I have actually already ordered (and received) the blue. I want the best performance I can get out of this, and this seems awfully important based on the above. Thanks!
 

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Mike Newman was kind enough to tell me how to do this, and asked me to add this to my post so that others could benefit. My only final question, after doing all of the following, is what exactly is a "high altitude" socker, and are there changes that can be made to a "standard" socket with the same effect?

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I'm sorry for my senior moment, but yes I did inform someone of that fact about yokes long ago. The deal is that the 07MS tubes need slightly different positioning of the convergence/focus yokes to get proper action on them. Just remove all the goober in the way of getting them butted together and hot melt together, taking care to orient them in the same manner so one's not sideways or something. In other words, take your dikes and cut that clamp ring area off so you can put them together - only the rear-most clamp holds the whole assembly in place. Also you'll want to change out the CRT sockets to high altitude sockets for proper spark gap.
 

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Lookin' good Jay!


Except you need to get that ground wire off that dangling clamp and put that end on the deflection yoke band (over the ferrite core) - just unscrew and slip the ground terminal on the screw and re-tighten. The high altitude sockets can be ordered from E-home, or at least they used to be, but ECP parts like that are starting to get pretty scarce - tech support won't even know what the heck you're talking about. I think I have 3 left, but I'm gonna keep em' in case I need to do another SD to 07 conversion. The old one's will work, it's just that you run a higher risk of an arc (in the socket). By the way, we're talking about the actual CRT socket on the neck board.


Mike
 

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I knew the ground wire had to move...I haven't glued them toether yet...I wanted approval JUST IN CASE I did it wrong. I've got thousands (literally) of CRT sockets from different Sony pj CRTS...what is the difference? can you tell by looking? I can certainly change one socket to another IF I know wha/where to look. Thank you again Mike!


Can you post a pic of the high altitude socket? vs an original?


BTW, I owe you a beer! or several!
 

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A BEER!? How 'bout several cases!!?:D


The actual # off the socket is 03-6521. Physically, they're identical - its the internal spark gap that's different (as far as I know).


Mike
 

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Oh I see...help and THEN tell me it what it costs :D


You know I'm only kidding (you do know that...right?) I wish I could express my gratitude. I just got back to my computer (internet has been down since 12:30) and I quickly put everything back together. All appears to work OK, the LVPS is "ringing" a bit, but I suppose when I get the front plate back on it will quieten it up somewhat. I have HV and raster on all tubes...raster is stretched vertically quite a bit. Now I have to get out the manual and start at the beginning to do the mechanical adjustements (Mike, what's your cell# in case I get stuck over the weekednd :D joke man, only a joke!) I REALLY want to watch Episode I over the weekend. I have had it since Tuesday, and seen bits & pieces here at the office on a 65" HD, buit can't wait for my 92" wide screen. Now the fun really starts! Thanks again Mike.
 
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