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Discussion Starter #1
how about 6 foot tall grown men???


I was working on the inside portion of the vent....


to get out, i have to crawl completely inside, take a lap around the vent tube, and come out head first



you can see the eventual color of the woodwork by looking at the already teak veneered sheet behind the sub and there is just a small bit of the Wenge wood peeking above that..... the wenge will be the dark trim color.
 

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Well, that's pretty interesting. :) Care to share any of the details on this project of yours? Sounds interesting.
 

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ROFLMAO Great Pic :) It never fails to amaze me the lengths some people will go for the ultimate in sound........lol


Lasher
 

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Discussion Starter #5
there will be more details soon... it is now up firing for 3 reasons...


1. i live in an apartment with someone below me... figured i could set it a little louder without disturbing them if i made it up firing.


2. since i decided to make it so I could change port lengths, I needed to have some of the exchangeable ports longer than will fit in the box. this meant that the port had to be up firing. since the port had to be up firing i figured that it wouldnt matter much aesthetically if the driver was also up firing


3. I had a height restriction for the edges of the table... they have to be the same height as the arms of my couch and chair that will be next to them so people can set thier drinks on it. with the driver up firing, I no longer needed a 5 inch gap under the sub which translated to 5 inches more internal volume...... over 100 liters more volume!!!!


ok... a few details......


1. avalanche 18 driver.

2. 42 inch diameter sonotube.

3. Total height 23 inches with room to put a 1 inch isolation pad under the whole sub before it reaches armrest height

4. vent has a 7.5 inch internal diameter 8.5 inch external diameter. it is made of electroweld plastic water pipe. there is 12 inches of port tube permanently attached inside the sub, and external vent plugs can be any length longer than 3 inches. I have made vent plugs that correspond to total vent lengths of 17.5 inches, 24 inches and 50 inches. I expect that i will eventually shorten the 50 inch vent to about 38 inches to get a 13 hz tune, but i want to test longer vents first ;)

5. total volume before subtracting the driver, port tube and bracing is 480 liters.

6. endcaps and bracing of the enclosure are 1 inch thick marine grade plywood made of virola.. a brazilian hardwood.

7. i will eventually build a second shelf 7 inches above the driver and port to protect them from things falling into them. this shelf will be in place when the 17.5 inch vent is used, and be removed when use of a longer vent is desired. i will put speaker cloth around the edges so it looks like the sub is small and just sitting on top of my end table...

8. the whole thing is glued together with west systems epoxy.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh... i had to go in the sub because i forgot to seal the internal vent. would not have been necessary if i had not been a dumbass.... i knew it would make a good picture so i had my neigbor come over with his digital camera again (mine broke) i have some build pics too but he hasnt unloaded them from his camera for me yet....
 

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Patrick-


Well, that's one interesting little project there. The 42" tube and the larger top really look cumbersome. Maybe it's not as bad as it looks. When complete, will it fit through a door? I hope you never have to move. :p


In the interest of full disclosure on silly sub projects: I'm building one of Steve's massive subs. It's bit a cumbersome. But takes up less floor space and, I'd think, is more flexible with regard to room placement. In the end, it's about 30" wide, about 7' tall, sitting on a round 36" base. Come to think of it, my 36" base isn't too much smaller than your 42".


I really like your idea of building in the adaptibility of multiple tunes- very nice.


Good luck with it!


-Jon


EDIT: Doesn't having the ports and upward firing driver kind of defeat the purpose of making this a large end table? Aren't you scared that drinks will spill down in there? If I went to all the effort of building a sub, no way would I let people put their beers on top. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it is actually not that bad in the cumbersome department considering the size.... It is lighter than it looks.


It fits easily through doors when you flip it on its side... I can fit up to 35 inches through my door.


it can be moved into any end table location, as well as any room corner not close to a door or walking path. its low height makes center of room placement possible... so it is quite location flexible...


the funny thing about this end table design, it actually is a better size for an end table than the end tables it can replace.... the height is better (higher) the other end tables are actually too small... they dont fill the corner between couches and chairs.....


as for drinks on top.... the speaker and port stick up off of the end table so spilled fluids will not be able to go inside as long as they dont splash... the driver is more sensitive to splashes but it will be furthest away from the couch so splashes are less likely. also, when the cover is on the sub, splashes wont be able to reach the driver. as for drinks on the end table.... the top will be finished with a matte automotive clear paint... drinks cant hurt it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oh... one other advantage to a shorter design.... when you have a sub that is 7 feet tall, you have an enclosure that is long enough to have standing waves inside it in the subwoofers frequency range. in order to cancel this you have to put seriously thick stuffing in one end of the sub. my resonance is 330 hz between endcaps so i dont need thick stuffing.


oh, dr jon... see my last post about your drink comment... i edited it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so far, there is one thing i would definately change... i would put the port closer to one wall instead of in the center of the table.... if it was closer to one wall it would be easier to make the shelf that covers it and the driver....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickrio
there will be more details soon... it is now up firing for 3 reasons...


1. avalanche 18 driver.

2. 42 inch diameter sonotube.

3. Total height 23 inches with room to put a 1 inch isolation pad under the whole sub before it reaches armrest height

of virola.. a brazilian hardwood.
Did you have to buy 12 feet of 42 inch sonotube? I am on the verge of building a 24 inch sonotube sub (a mini Steve Callas) with a 15 inch driver. I believe it will end up being approx. 5 feet tall. Cool sub, great picture!


Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no... i found a local supplier that sells by the foot. this size is only used by enormous construction firms (highrises or parking garages usually) so they didnt know how to deal with little old me... they ended up selling me the tube for cash...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
actually, i should have said CLOSER to the side... i would have still kept the end 8 inches from the wall... but yeah, i think the center is slightly better for sound.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickrio
there will be more details soon... it is now up firing for 3 reasons...


1. i live in an apartment with someone below me... figured i could set it a little louder without disturbing them if i made it up firing.
Hilarious picture... your neighbors are going to love you. :)


How long before you are done?


-J
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well, it COULD play today if i had my amp..... it will be awhile until i finish the outside so it is pretty...


as for neigbors, I have two, one below and one to the side.... they are not home sometimes, and i know them well enough that i can invite them over for a movie if i want to play loud....


I will test with War of the Worlds to see what volume level i can set the sub at and still be a good neigbor....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the caps are made of 1 inch thick marine plywood..... it is made of a brazilian hardwood called virola.


the bottom cap will just be painted black and will be the base... it will sit on a 1-2 inch vibration isolation pad if i get too much transmission into the apartment below me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
if i ever want to make the sub down firing, i can always cut the edges off the table top, flip the whole thing over and put legs on it., and put a new table top on the other end.....
 
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