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Discussion Starter #22
no there is only one inch thick plywood on each cap... the plywood is braced internally with 3 inch wide plywood pieces placed on end and epoxied in place. i routered a groove for the sonotube to insert into the plywood and it is also epoxied. the edges of the plywood top will have a 2 inch thick piece of Wenge (a black colored african hardwood) to make the edges look substatial.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
the most expensive part of this project has been all the different router bits that I have purchased....
 

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Originally Posted by patrickrio
it is actually not that bad in the cumbersome department considering the size.... It is lighter than it looks.


It fits easily through doors when you flip it on its side... I can fit up to 35 inches through my door.


it can be moved into any end table location, as well as any room corner not close to a door or walking path. its low height makes center of room placement possible... so it is quite location flexible...


the funny thing about this end table design, it actually is a better size for an end table than the end tables it can replace.... the height is better (higher) the other end tables are actually too small... they dont fill the corner between couches and chairs.....


as for drinks on top.... the speaker and port stick up off of the end table so spilled fluids will not be able to go inside as long as they dont splash... the driver is more sensitive to splashes but it will be furthest away from the couch so splashes are less likely. also, when the cover is on the sub, splashes wont be able to reach the driver. as for drinks on the end table.... the top will be finished with a matte automotive clear paint... drinks cant hurt it.
OK, that's great, then. Sounds like you've got things figured out. Yeah, maybe it will be easy to place it in various room locations- a good thing.


Just a warning for when you move into your next place: I don't think doors are commonly 35" wide. The front door to my house could not accomodate too much more than the 28" tube. I think 30" would have been the max, with a little scraping. So whenyou start looking at the real estate ads, you might want to focus on wheelchair accessible homes.

:)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickrio
no... i found a local supplier that sells by the foot. this size is only used by enormous construction firms (highrises or parking garages usually) so they didnt know how to deal with little old me... they ended up selling me the tube for cash...
Consider yourself lucky. I had to buy a 12' piece of the 28". I've got the extra sitting around now, pretty much useless unless I build sub #2. Getting the 28" tube and a small piece of 8" delivered to my house was a painful $175.
 

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Patrick-


What are you doing to cover the tube side? I'm going to cover mine with black cloth. Not super happy with that, but couldn't come up with any ideas that were significantly better.


-Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #28
well, when this sub flips on its side, it will fit through a 25 inch door..... if I take the driver and the vent plug out it will fit through a 23 inch door.... so I can live in a closet if neccesary :D


(come to think of it, I ALREADY live in a closet....)


Since i bought the sonotube from a BIG construction supply firm, they had VERY good prices too... i paid 40 dollars for my sonotube.... ;)


the 8 inch electroweld pipe was purchased from a plumbing supply house that sells to city water departments (8 inches is the smallest size of this pipe they have.... but if you want up to 3 feet diameter, they have that!!!) it cost me 40 dollars for the exact length i requested....


I tied the sonotube on my roofrack and brought it home... the vent fit inside my car.


Yes, that is right, I don't have an underside layer to the endcaps. they fit snugly because i routered a groove with a snug fit for the sonotube in the one inch plywood... it is the same effect as what you did, only it is one piece, and lighter.... i can get away with thinner endcaps even though my endcaps are larger because a. i used plywood which is structurally stronger than mdf, and b. i have internal bracing made of the same plywood and use epoxy for strength.


as for covering the sides, that is probably one of the coolest things!!! 3M makes wood veneers that have super high strength adhesive backing on it... i just cut this veneer to size, remove the covering to the veneer, and STICK the wood veneer onto the outside of the sonotube.... because i am not an expert veneer person, and because the sonotube is not perfectly flat, i am using trim pieces to cover the joints where the veneer butts up against another piece of veneer.... you will see it in the pics when i finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
oh, the nice thing about the electoweld pipe is that it has thick walls, and it routers very nice. i was able to router very pretty port flares!!!! i routered mdf rings and epoxied them at the ends. with a little fill, sanding and flat black paint, they will look like they are one piece flares!
 

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Patrick-


Great deal on the tube. $80 for everything sure beats my $175.


OK, it's veneer. Yeah, I thought about that for mine but decided against it, reluctantly. The veener for my large sub would cost about $200. I'd have 1 vertical and 3 horizontal seams visible, between pieces. But the thing that talked me out of it is that doing a good veneer job is really tough. I've never tried it before. So the odds of my covering this whole sub with veneer and having it coming out looking really good were quite low. (I'd estimate 0%.) So I passed. But I do think that nothing would look better than a good veneer job, followed by some nice sand, stain, and finish.


Have fun with it.


-Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #32
well, i already played with the stick on stuff(did a test box).... thats what made me decide to use trim pieces to cover the seams. the top edge has a place that it inserts into so it wont be visible, the side edges will be covered with trim strips and the bottom edge has a very easy cutter that makes it perfect. the only hard part left is sticking it on, and with the self stick veneer, that is a snap...on your long sonotube, you could do 2-3 trim strips of a different color the length of the sonotube if you messed up your seams... it would look nice....


on your sonotube, the top and bottom are easy to cut because you use the special little tool.. the only hard part is the vertical seams between veneer pieces, and that becomes a snap if you cover the seams with trim pieces.


oh, another thing, the pressure sensitive, stick on veneer comes pre sanded and ready for finishing... believe me i was worried tooo but it was easy... maybe easier than sewing a covering sock and getting it wrinkle free...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
it is true, the veneer and wood trim can be an expensive way to go if you use some of the prettier woods. the Wenge, just for the trim that i am doing, cost 80 dollars. the veneer cost 120 dollars. then i got a 25% discount from rockler (they send discounts from time to time by email....) really the most expensive part is the router bits..... lots of router bits.... now i have everything i need though (well maybe another few round overs to make even BIGGER port flares!!!!!)
 

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i live in an apartment
I would have to live on a Farm before my wife let me bring something like that in the house. You can't possibly be married and if so she is one of the greatest wives ever. That sub if going to test your friendship with your neighbors, good gawd.


I hope you can run it full throttle in your space and not be like the guy with a Hummer getting his jollies jumping curbs in the city.


looks good, can't wait until your done.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
well... i will be able to go full throttle during the day when my neighbors are not home... or when i invite them all over for movies ;)


i am building it to be as pretty as possible and so that it can blend into the room as well as can be expected considering its size. it will also have a usefull function... end table.


no i dont have a wife.... or temporarily a girlfriend... maybe im building this thing out of frustration...hahahah
 

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An apartment??? GOOD GOD! I can't wait to see the picture of the apartment building completely leveled with the subwoofer in the middle of the rubble still playing. That is nuts.
 

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I must have missed something but...


You choose to have an up firing sub because you don't want to disturb the downstairs neighbors, yet your sub could be rented out as a studio apartment...


Wouldn't the other solution to be a smaller sub to start with?
 

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Quote:
One of the bigger compromises with subwoofers is the enclosure volume - he's trying to eliminate that compromise.
We know, we're just poking fun.

It would seem that "I live in an apartment" would equal compromise.

Obviously the OP has it worked out. I show my wife these subs and all of a sudden I'm doing her a favor by having something much smaller.

Steve does that Sonosub's bass get into your walls and cause any serious resonance issues, if corner loaded?
 
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