They are in stock at monoprice. I just ordered one. I will post a review next week or whenever I receive it.
4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote Controller
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Manufacturing, Myths, and Misfires with HDMI Cables. Episode 9 of the AVSForum Podcast is now live! Click here for details.
curtis104
441 - 460 of 518 Posts
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421 Posts
Not really.
As long as I can watch... I can copy.
As long as I can hear... I can copy.
HDCP is useless, only perhaps for those who won't do research and is afraid of little electronic.
![Image]()
Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo57 /forum/post/18197220
Digital Content Protection is a constant irritant and source of misery![Image]()
Not really.
As long as I can watch... I can copy.
As long as I can hear... I can copy.
HDCP is useless, only perhaps for those who won't do research and is afraid of little electronic.
Joined
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1,342 Posts
While I'm sure what you say is true, it's hardly relevant to handshake issues which are a result of HDCP.
![Image]()
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradius2 /forum/post/18320343
Not really.
As long as I can watch... I can copy.
As long as I can hear... I can copy.
HDCP is useless, only perhaps for those who won't do research and is afraid of little electronic.![Image]()
While I'm sure what you say is true, it's hardly relevant to handshake issues which are a result of HDCP.
My setup is as follows:
Output A
Panasonic BD-30
DirecTV HR21
HTPC
all to a Denon 1610 then to a 50 in plasma
Output B
75ft of 24 awg to a 42 in plasma
My problem is with the blu ray player while attempting anything with True HD or DTS MA, it does not work. If I bypass the receiver it will work. I have read through the previous threads regarding this issue. Monoprice tech chat said that it was my cables. I currently use their 28 awg 1.3 3 ft cables from the bd to the switch, another of the same to the receiver and a 6ft 28 awg 1.3 to thw TV. They recommended using their 24 awg cables, but I find it hard to believe that that is all it could be, although I hope it is. Can anyone confirm that this will remedy my problem?
Also I get sparkling from both outputs.
Output A
Panasonic BD-30
DirecTV HR21
HTPC
all to a Denon 1610 then to a 50 in plasma
Output B
75ft of 24 awg to a 42 in plasma
My problem is with the blu ray player while attempting anything with True HD or DTS MA, it does not work. If I bypass the receiver it will work. I have read through the previous threads regarding this issue. Monoprice tech chat said that it was my cables. I currently use their 28 awg 1.3 3 ft cables from the bd to the switch, another of the same to the receiver and a 6ft 28 awg 1.3 to thw TV. They recommended using their 24 awg cables, but I find it hard to believe that that is all it could be, although I hope it is. Can anyone confirm that this will remedy my problem?
Also I get sparkling from both outputs.
Has anyone tried the new Monoprice True Matrix High Speed 4x2, product ID 6415?
The one with optical out on Output A.
Does this suffer the "Common Denominator" issue.
This is my setup:
Inputs:
TiVo Premiere XL
Oppo BDP-83
Onkyo TX-SR705
Outputs:
Sony XBR910 (HDMI to DVI Cable)
Epson HTPC 400 Projector
Will this setup be a problem?
Any limitations?
The one with optical out on Output A.
Does this suffer the "Common Denominator" issue.
This is my setup:
Inputs:
TiVo Premiere XL
Oppo BDP-83
Onkyo TX-SR705
Outputs:
Sony XBR910 (HDMI to DVI Cable)
Epson HTPC 400 Projector
Will this setup be a problem?
Any limitations?
Joined
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31 Posts
I am torn between the monoprice HDMI Matrix and this device....
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29774
Has anyone here any experience with this one?
Jon
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29774
Has anyone here any experience with this one?
Jon
Joined
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31 Posts
Anyone had any luck controlling the MonoPrice 4x4 with RS-232? I found the specs here
Jon
20090602102244_RS232-Command.pdf 260.193359375k . file
Jon
20090602102244_RS232-Command.pdf 260.193359375k . file
Joined
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377 Posts
RS-232 control of the 4x4 matrix switch has been confirmed in this RemoteCentral.com thread. Unfortunately, there is still no discrete on/off command.
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...thread.cgi?114
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...thread.cgi?114
Hello - new guy here. Both to the forum and to the idea of distributed A/V.
I think that I might be in the clear here with the ability to save a lot of money by using one of these units. From what I understand, the passage quoted above sums up most of the problems with these 4x2 and 4x4 units. Thus, if in my case, where all my displays are 1080p (even if 2 sources - comcast cable boxes - are 720p; does that matter?) and I'm processing my audio separately, I should be perfectly OK with these... right?
A 720p plasma came with the house, but it sounds to me like that'd be what throws a wrench into everything. But is that only the case if it's on? Because it'd become the guest bedroom TV and we rarely have guests. In fact, I wouldn't mind having it completely disconnected except when someone visits, at which time I'd just give them their own Comcast box directly.
All my audio gear is at least a decade old and thus doesn't even take HDMI, so I'd be just using optical digi out for audio (or analog!), so any effect this switcher has on audio is completely irrelevant to me. Whatever remote solution I use will just handle the input switching and whatnot if I want something in surround.
So if I've got:
1) Comcast Motorola DVR 1
2) Comcast Motorola DVR 2
3) AppleTV (for now - we'll see if I like it; got it mostly for music but then learned I'm better off using a HTPC with a USB DAC)
4) LG BR player
going to:
1) Panasonic 1080p plasma (50pz77u)
2) Epsom 1080p projector (8100)
3) [as yet unpurchased 65" plasma]
4) old old Pioneer 720p plasma - can be separate
[might make #4 a smaller screen above the jacuzzi or something if we find that we use it]
and I use my own combo of preamps/amps/multizone audio stuff, I should be OK?
Because that would be awesome. And I'd have a whole bunch more money to spend on speakers instead of video stuff. I care more about audio anyway.
I should note that I'm in no rush to do this - if I'm demonstrably better off with a higher priced unit I can wait til it's affordable to me. I'm fine with one cable box per TV and the BRD on the projector for now. It's what I'm used to anyway. But if this can meet my modest demands, that'd be great.
Hello - new guy here. Both to the forum and to the idea of distributed A/V.
I think that I might be in the clear here with the ability to save a lot of money by using one of these units. From what I understand, the passage quoted above sums up most of the problems with these 4x2 and 4x4 units. Thus, if in my case, where all my displays are 1080p (even if 2 sources - comcast cable boxes - are 720p; does that matter?) and I'm processing my audio separately, I should be perfectly OK with these... right?
A 720p plasma came with the house, but it sounds to me like that'd be what throws a wrench into everything. But is that only the case if it's on? Because it'd become the guest bedroom TV and we rarely have guests. In fact, I wouldn't mind having it completely disconnected except when someone visits, at which time I'd just give them their own Comcast box directly.
All my audio gear is at least a decade old and thus doesn't even take HDMI, so I'd be just using optical digi out for audio (or analog!), so any effect this switcher has on audio is completely irrelevant to me. Whatever remote solution I use will just handle the input switching and whatnot if I want something in surround.
So if I've got:
1) Comcast Motorola DVR 1
2) Comcast Motorola DVR 2
3) AppleTV (for now - we'll see if I like it; got it mostly for music but then learned I'm better off using a HTPC with a USB DAC)
4) LG BR player
going to:
1) Panasonic 1080p plasma (50pz77u)
2) Epsom 1080p projector (8100)
3) [as yet unpurchased 65" plasma]
4) old old Pioneer 720p plasma - can be separate
[might make #4 a smaller screen above the jacuzzi or something if we find that we use it]
and I use my own combo of preamps/amps/multizone audio stuff, I should be OK?
Because that would be awesome. And I'd have a whole bunch more money to spend on speakers instead of video stuff. I care more about audio anyway.
I should note that I'm in no rush to do this - if I'm demonstrably better off with a higher priced unit I can wait til it's affordable to me. I'm fine with one cable box per TV and the BRD on the projector for now. It's what I'm used to anyway. But if this can meet my modest demands, that'd be great.
Picked up the HDX-402E from Monoprice recently. Setup is as follows:
- Splitting Samsung Blu-Ray BDP-2550 and Dish STB VIP 922 into an Onkyo SR-705
- First output from the switch goes to the Onkyo
- Signal goes from Onkyo to JVC RS2
- Other output from the switch goes to a future LCD to be installed in my bar area
Initial Observations:
- Works well with the Samsung and Dish equipment. Switching is prompt, no loss in audio or video quality
- Did not work with my HTPC; was shrinking the screen; I'm wondering if there are some ATI settings that need to be adjusted for this
- Set it up with a Harmony 880 remote. When selecting which activity you want to do, it automatically switches with the remote thanks to an attached IR output on the switch.
- Have not tested output to the second LCD and whether "least-common denominator" effect happens (am guessing it will do this).
- Am leaving the switch on all the time; am assuming there's not an issue in doing this
Thought I'd share.
- Splitting Samsung Blu-Ray BDP-2550 and Dish STB VIP 922 into an Onkyo SR-705
- First output from the switch goes to the Onkyo
- Signal goes from Onkyo to JVC RS2
- Other output from the switch goes to a future LCD to be installed in my bar area
Initial Observations:
- Works well with the Samsung and Dish equipment. Switching is prompt, no loss in audio or video quality
- Did not work with my HTPC; was shrinking the screen; I'm wondering if there are some ATI settings that need to be adjusted for this
- Set it up with a Harmony 880 remote. When selecting which activity you want to do, it automatically switches with the remote thanks to an attached IR output on the switch.
- Have not tested output to the second LCD and whether "least-common denominator" effect happens (am guessing it will do this).
- Am leaving the switch on all the time; am assuming there's not an issue in doing this
Thought I'd share.
Sorry to bring this topic back from the dead, but I'm looking to buy one of these.
Has anyone used it to play 3D? I know the new rules with HDMI cables, and the old 1.3, 1.4 etc numbering is out. I know its just standard and high speed, and 1.3 should fall under high speed, but I don't know how that will work with actual components.
The thought is to have a 3D BD player (unpurchased as of yet), and a PS3 connected, and be able to route a 3D BD from either device to either source. As of right now, only one of my TVs support 3D (samsung pn50c7000), my other TV is a samsung LN-T4061f, which I hope to upgrade to a 3D capable TV during the beginning of 2011.
I'll also have 1 cable box (SA8300HDC) and an XBOX360 connected.
I'm also debating the 4x4 (product ID 5704) to hook up my other two TVs, but I'm not sure if its worth the extra money (one of those TVs will be in the spare bedroom, which maybe gets used once or twice a year, the other is in my office, which I don't really need access to all my components).
Has anyone used it to play 3D? I know the new rules with HDMI cables, and the old 1.3, 1.4 etc numbering is out. I know its just standard and high speed, and 1.3 should fall under high speed, but I don't know how that will work with actual components.
The thought is to have a 3D BD player (unpurchased as of yet), and a PS3 connected, and be able to route a 3D BD from either device to either source. As of right now, only one of my TVs support 3D (samsung pn50c7000), my other TV is a samsung LN-T4061f, which I hope to upgrade to a 3D capable TV during the beginning of 2011.
I'll also have 1 cable box (SA8300HDC) and an XBOX360 connected.
I'm also debating the 4x4 (product ID 5704) to hook up my other two TVs, but I'm not sure if its worth the extra money (one of those TVs will be in the spare bedroom, which maybe gets used once or twice a year, the other is in my office, which I don't really need access to all my components).
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222 Posts
You may run in to the "least common denominator" issue which is the switch will output the highest quality format that is accepted by ALL your displays. I'm not sure if that will affect 3D or not but I presume it's a possibility. If it is a problem you will not be able to watch 3D content on your Samsung without first physically unplugging the HDMI cable from your non-3D TV. Again this all speculation, I do not have any 3D display devices to test with.
It certainly would affect trying to run a 720p and 1080p display at the same time, the format would default to 720p on both displays. The same holds true with audio, if one output is a receiver that supports Dolby Digital 5.1 and the second device is a TV (stereo) the outputted audio will be stereo PCM and NOT a 5.1 bitstream since one of the output devices (in this case the TV) does not support receiving a 5.1 bitstream.
You can thank our friend HDCP for all these issues
![Image]()
You may run in to the "least common denominator" issue which is the switch will output the highest quality format that is accepted by ALL your displays. I'm not sure if that will affect 3D or not but I presume it's a possibility. If it is a problem you will not be able to watch 3D content on your Samsung without first physically unplugging the HDMI cable from your non-3D TV. Again this all speculation, I do not have any 3D display devices to test with.
It certainly would affect trying to run a 720p and 1080p display at the same time, the format would default to 720p on both displays. The same holds true with audio, if one output is a receiver that supports Dolby Digital 5.1 and the second device is a TV (stereo) the outputted audio will be stereo PCM and NOT a 5.1 bitstream since one of the output devices (in this case the TV) does not support receiving a 5.1 bitstream.
You can thank our friend HDCP for all these issues
I could live with the audio issue, as this wont be feeding a AVR, I'm in a temp house right now, so I don't have my home theater setup. When I move, I could cross that bridge when I get to it.
But I'll probably be here for another year or two, and the 3D issue could be a deal breaker. Maybe I read this thread wrong, but I thought with the latest Rev, that only happened when both output's are using the same input. Did I misread?
Am I better off getting 2 4x1s and 4 1x2s (assuming there is such a thing), though that sounds like it would be a bit confusing to operate. Or better suggestion?
Piping out all my sources to two TVs is very important to me. I can't count how many times I've been in the living room playing XBOX and got kicked out by the wife so she could watch TV. Its more for the game consoles and cable, as far as movies go, I stream them over my network, and have cat5 where every TV is (if someone can point me to a box that supports streaming 3D blu ray, that might kill my concerns, but I don't think theres any such thing).
But I'll probably be here for another year or two, and the 3D issue could be a deal breaker. Maybe I read this thread wrong, but I thought with the latest Rev, that only happened when both output's are using the same input. Did I misread?
Am I better off getting 2 4x1s and 4 1x2s (assuming there is such a thing), though that sounds like it would be a bit confusing to operate. Or better suggestion?
Piping out all my sources to two TVs is very important to me. I can't count how many times I've been in the living room playing XBOX and got kicked out by the wife so she could watch TV. Its more for the game consoles and cable, as far as movies go, I stream them over my network, and have cat5 where every TV is (if someone can point me to a box that supports streaming 3D blu ray, that might kill my concerns, but I don't think theres any such thing).
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