I forgot to mention that the inner height is not too much that's why I would not like to hang the projector too far from the ceiling. So ideally I would mount it directly to the ceiling (plasterboard) with min. gap.

 

Describe what you mean by plasterboard suspended ceiling? Drywall? If so, no problem, use a studfinder to locate the studs that the drywall is screwed into and mount the projector on one of those. If it's plaster and lath, you still need to find the stud, but it's going to be more difficult to locate.

As for mounting it, Chief makes the best mounts for JVC projectors, and their website can walk you through finding the correct mount for your model. If you put it together with the correct pieces, without a post, you can get it very snug to the ceiling.

One thing to keep in mind is that for proper alignment, the projector lens needs to be within the screen area, meaning if you mount it that close to the ceiling, the screen needs to also be that close to the ceiling so the lens is below the top edge of the screen. Otherwise you need to angle the projector and use keystone to fill the screen, which will decrease resolution and image quality.

 

Yes, I mean drywall. Sorry, I'm from Hungary and didn't know the proper word 🙂 I have a studfinder so that shouldn't be a problem. I will check Chief's webpage, thanks. Problem is that here in Hungary I don't know whether it can be bought or order but let's see. Some months ago I saw the same console advertised at a Hungarian forum which showed by toast411. Maybe it's still available.

 

Previously I had a suspended ceiling in a theater room, for the projector mount I used a mount with a short tube.

Install went like this

• attach base to ceiling (not the suspended ceiling)
• cut hole in the ceiling tile
• pass the tube through the ceiling tile and screw into the base
• spin the mount on the tube which is extending through the ceiling tile into the room

From memory I think the mount I used had a set screw for the tube vs being threaded (so very adjustable; just cut the tube to length), but you get the idea.



Example of the mount

 

This is the mount I was referring to that can be mounted very tightly to the ceiling.

If you look closely, it's two pieces. the adjustment box on the top, and a flat plate that attaches to the projector. You can screw that box directly to your ceiling into a stud, then use a level to tune it in and make sure the bottom of the box is level, and then you attach the projector with the four finger screws and lock it down, then reconfirm the level. with the weight of the projector.

It gets very tight to make adjustments but it can be done.

 

It’s always better to mount something heavy to the solid structure, rather than relying on plasterboard alone. In terms of the aluminum profiles, mounting a projector to them could be tricky, especially with the weight. You might be able to use a strong metal bracket, but you'd want to ensure it’s securely fixed to the profiles. Otherwise, I’d recommend just going through the plasterboard to the concrete ceiling for a more secure mount

 

Fully agree with that. I'm also hesitating to mount such a heavy projector the the drywall or Alu studs. So fixing to the solid ceiling with rods seems a good solution.

 

I would cut the ceiling open, span 2 joists with 2x4's and install either plywood to bolt to, or drop 4 threaded rods and use a piece of 3/4" plywood to use as a platform.

 

Ceiling mount is the easy part, what is you plan to bring the hdmi and power to the ceiling ?

 

Yes, good point. That's what will be done by someone else (a specialist for drywall systems). He will cut and fix the drywall and help to mount the projector and screen, plus place the HDMI cable inside. It won't be easy becasue there's nearly 7m between the projector and the receiver. 1-2 support holes will be needed to cut in this lenght. And of course I am planning to put inspection door to the ceiling next to the screen and the projector console also for easier future mounting/demounting possibility.
For the power...it would be nice if we can place a socket near the projector but basically the back wall of the room is here and there's a socket below, so I in worst case we use a cable channel for that.

 

I don't know anything about the building code in Hungary but running electrical extension cable in wall is a fire hazard against code in north America. You may want to run 2x hdmi cable in case one fail. If you cannot find studs at the intended mounting location you can install a plywood board between 2 studs and refinish it for mounting.

 

I don't want to run electrical extension cable inside the wall. I meant the electrician would search something near the projector from where electricity can be separated so it can be taken to the projector in that way. Of course I would not place an extension cord above the ceiling.
By the way today I succeeded to buy a Chief console from Sweden in a very good price 🤟I found an ad in a swedish online market. My sister and her husband live in Sweden so they ordered it and will send to me. If needed I can buy the extension tube and the base separately here in Hungary.

 

Have you thought about attaching four poles on the joists either and attaching a shelf on them? That way you can get the projector quite near to the ceiling.

 

The mount he posted will allow him to get the top of the projector about 2 inches from the ceiling. Using a shelf won't be any benefit since the shelf itself will add height to the assembly, essentially moving the non-projector height from the mount on top to the shelf on the bottom.

 

I have plasterboard suspended ceiling.

Sounds like your question may have been answered but I have some pictures of how I used a Chief mount on my suspended drywall ceiling.

I cut a hole big enough to find a joist and bolt the mounting hardware to it. There's roughly 4 inches between joist and drywall here. Obviously not pretty to start with, but a very secure attachment.

Get a new piece of drywall to use as a patch, cut a hole in it big enough for the pipe that comes with the Chief mount (1.5 inches I believe) then put the pole in the mount, slide the drywall patch onto that pole (IT MUST LINE UP WITH THE ALREADY MOUNTED HARDWARE), trace the edges of the new drywall onto the old drywall, then cut the old drywall on your trace lines. it doesn't need to be perfect as long as the patch drywall is bigger than the original ugly hole. Get a few pieces of plywood or something similar, screw it to the back/top of the old drywall, then screw the drywall patch to those pieces of plywood. I know that's a lot of steps combined into the two pictures below, but hopefully it's not too hard to follow.

Here's a test fit after trimming the drywall edges a little cleaner and screwing the drywall patch to the plywood.

Then spackle and sand until you are happy with the results. I'm really pleased with how this turned out considering I've never done this before.

 

Thank you! This is very useful.