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Hubs in each room or multiple CAT6 runs to each room?

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10K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  jcalisi  
#1 ·
I'm planning on turning a hall closet into a network closet. I'd like to put all the networking (modem, wireless router, switches, patch panel) in the closet, like a star topology.


Should I run multiple (say, 4) runs of solid CAT6 to each room (office, living room, family room) to keep the switches out of those rooms?


Or should I keep it simple and run a single CAT6 to each room and use a switch in each room as necessary?


Other than the cost/work of running more CAT6 to 4-port wallplates, what am I not worrying about that I should be?
 
#2 ·
I've been wondering the same thing. I don't think network traffic would be affected by a bunch of switches vs one large switch.


I think it all comes down to initial cost/long term costs. Electricity should be cheaper if you use one large switch vs a few smaller ones. CAT6 cabling and wall plates might end up to be more expensive than just one run and a few switches.


How many areas and outlets do you want/need in each area?

Currently I have a main "server room" where everythings located but have switches in the media cabinet, office and living room. The problem I have is not every switch is gigabyte and I really only use 2-3 ports in each area.
 
#3 ·
I max out today at 4 in each room except the family room where I just use 1. I don't expect this to grow beyond 4 per-room as I move to more wireless devices.


I'm not worried about the cost of the extra (3 cable runs * 3 rooms) CAT 6 and the wallplates (since I'll need single wallplates anyway). I'm also not worried about the cost of keeping the "big switch" (ie. the whole closet) all gigabit.


But I would definitely love to get rid of the switches in the other rooms. Less blinky lights, less cabling, less power strips.


So is it a no-brainer? Go with multiple CAT6 runs if the logistics and wallet allow?
 
#4 ·
Multiple runs is really the way to go. It won't add much to the install cost, because they measure once, and then just cut the same length for each run to make a bundle.


Also, if you're interested in doing any kind of distributed video throughout your house, you'll need 2 dedicated CatX cables just for that.
 
#5 ·
You can also have better performance with one switch vs. multiple switches, depending on the traffic patterns you have.


Also: your title says "Hubs", but your post says "Switches" - there is no reason to use a hub these days. Switches are much better and very cheap. But I'm guessing you already know that.
 
#6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidag02 /forum/post/18998878


Multiple runs is really the way to go. It won't add much to the install cost, because they measure once, and then just cut the same length for each run to make a bundle.

The cables are usually cut after they're pulled - they don't measure. If pulling 4 cables, they're pulled from 4 boxes (usually).


I agree, though, that it's almost as easy to pull 4 cables as pulling 1 cable.
 
#8 ·
You can easily put up to 6 ethernet cables into one single gang 'hole', using keystone terminations.

Image



More than 6, if a bulk cable wall plate is used.

Image
 
#10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad /forum/post/19001551


The cables are usually cut after they're pulled - they don't measure. If pulling 4 cables, they're pulled from 4 boxes (usually).


I agree, though, that it's almost as easy to pull 4 cables as pulling 1 cable.

That explains it... the install I assisted with, we only had 2 spools. We ran a string to get a measurement, then created the wiring bundle based off of that measurement.


It went pretty efficiently, but I can definitely see how the method you described would be faster.
 
#11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidag02 /forum/post/18998878


Multiple runs is really the way to go. It won't add much to the install cost, because they measure once, and then just cut the same length for each run to make a bundle.


Also, if you're interested in doing any kind of distributed video throughout your house, you'll need 2 dedicated CatX cables just for that.

Agree, for this very reason -- it keeps open the possibility of distributed video over Cat6 using baluns (which requires essentially straight-through cable runs; no hubs/switches allowed, but I was able to get by terminating to a punch-down keystone jack, and then through a patch cord).
 
#13 ·
Usually in the closet you'll use a patch panel. That way you can come all the way out of the wall giving you a significant cable service loop, and it's just way easier to punch it all down. The exposed wiring infrastructure isn't a concern in a cabling room anyway. The added service loop length gives you plenty of flexibility if you needed to re-purpose any of the cat runs for other things or needed to reterminate, etc. Patch panels also make labeling easier, and they're all numbered etc.


If you want things less exposed, then use punchdowns inside a can.


I wouldn't use wallplates w/keystones in a wiring closet, that's just silly.
 
#14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles /forum/post/19008161


Usually in the closet you'll use a patch panel. That way you can come all the way out of the wall giving you a significant cable service loop, and it's just way easier to punch it all down. The exposed wiring infrastructure isn't a concern in a cabling room anyway. The added service loop length gives you plenty of flexibility if you needed to re-purpose any of the cat runs for other things or needed to reterminate, etc. Patch panels also make labeling easier, and they're all numbered etc.


If you want things less exposed, then use punchdowns inside a can.


I wouldn't use wallplates w/keystones in a wiring closet, that's just silly.

Well, it's not really a wiring closet. It's a hall closet and I want to use the top half (the shelf and up) as a network closet. I'm looking for a clean look with as few wires as possible.


Can you point me to more info on using punchdowns inside a can? Not sure what that is.
 
#15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by flynn337 /forum/post/19008471


Well, it's not really a wiring closet. It's a hall closet and I want to use the top half (the shelf and up) as a network closet. I'm looking for a clean look with as few wires as possible.


Can you point me to more info on using punchdowns inside a can? Not sure what that is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jti8_10aLk4

http://www.levitonproducts.com/catalog/dept_id_851.htm


Various inserts, etc:

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCZ...7&respid=22372


A structured media enclosure, or a can, etc, goes in the wall with a cover. You pull all your cables in there, and then there are all sorts of inserts that fit in there for whatever kind of cables you need. And you can also mount whatever else you need in there as well.


If you get a large enough enclosure, you can fit switches and whatnot in there. I do not recommend putting routers or other devices in there that would tend to overheat without ventilation.


It just sort of depends what you're looking to do, etc. I would go either with an enclosure or the mounted external patch panel linked before. Those are the common methods. Patch panels are used more frequently in commercial/professional environments where everything is mounted to a plywood board and looks are not a prominent concern inside an equipment/electrical room. Media enclosures are standard in pretty much any new construction nowadays for modest structured wiring systems. Though there are more and more homes now which require dedicated equipment/electrical rooms, server rooms, etc, so you'll find more commercial-type installations in larger homes/systems too.


Personally, I hate trying to fit everything into a can. I far prefer more commercial-type installations with everything exposed and accessible in dedicated spaces. But obviously that's my bias as a technician, not as a homeowner who cares about neat looks.


If you go to any electrical supply house, they'll have all this stuff w/catalogs and such. You can find a small selection of the basics at Home Depot even, but you're better off going to a legit electrical supplier.
 
#16 ·
That's helpful, thanks.


The can seems like a good compromise for a clean look, but doesn't make sense if it can't include a switch, cable mode, router etc. - I would need most of the wires to come out of the can anyway to connect to these devices.


I also don't see a future need to re-purpose the cat runs or re-terminate. I don't think a service loop within the closet would be useful (although I'll keep some slack in the attic for an emergency.)
 
#17 ·
I used this cheap rack-stand:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


A CAT6 patch panel for all CAT6 terminations:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


This for blank keystone patch panel for coax, speaker, phone etc terminations (everything except CAT6):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


A rack shelf at the bottom to hold modem and router:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


A power strip that also mounts to the stand:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


And a 24-port switch also rack-mounted:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product


Switch has connections in the front, making it very easy to connect to CAT6 terminations in the patch panel using 1-foot long CAT6 cables from monoprice.
 
#18 ·
Something else to think about is if your location supports fiber to the house. Each tv will require a dedicated network connection back to its own "subnet". They prefer to keep the tv's separate from your internal network. Its not a very prevalent technology yet but its quickly coming.


If you have the space and access from top and bottom I would put in a can. Its much more work but has a nice clean install when your done and no worries of someone throwing something in the closet and disconnecting a device.