If $500 is your budget max, I'd do a pair of passive bookshelf speakers with a compact T-amp with Bluetooth, through which you can easily run Tidal.
Alternatives to ACTIVE speakers

 

If $500 is your budget max, I'd do a pair of passive bookshelf speakers with a compact T-amp with Bluetooth, through which you can easily run Tidal.
Alternatives to ACTIVE speakers

Totally disagree. Friends don't let friends use BT when compared to music-over-wifi. BT has its use cases, but this isn't one of them. (IMHO).

 

WiiM is a good choice. Although, I can't see a good reason for anything more than the Pro ($149 shipped) for your use case, where you'll be using it as a 'pure' streamer with no analog inputs.

WiiM Pro

Streaming music player and digital preamp with Wi-Fi®, Google Cast, Apple AirPlay® 2, and Bluetooth®

www.crutchfield.com

To narrow down your speaker choices, you can now look for pairs without built-in wireless/Bluetooth/digital connectivity (it's in the WiiM), which may contribute to them being less reliable. This will lead you towards studio monitor style speakers with analog inputs only. They'll target an accurate/neutral response, so will take well to any EQ provided by the WiiM. Within your budget, these are some of the best performers I've seen:

Thomann Swissonic A306 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Review

Thomann Swissonic A306 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Review

www.erinsaudiocorner.com

However, they're no longer available and replaced by the A308 (~$400 shipped):

Swissonic A308

Active Studio Monitor 2-Way System with Class D amplifiers, Power: 100 watts bi-amplified (50 + 50 watts), Speaker configuration: 8" woofer and 1" Silk tweeter, Frequency range: 38 - 20000 Hz, Crossover frequency: 2600 Hz, Signal to noise ratio >...

www.thomannmusic.com

Please let us know what you think.

 

Here's a couple of locally available options.

Kali Audio LP-6v2 (Second Wave) 2-Way Studio Monitor Review

Kali Audio LP-6v2 2-Way Studio Monitor Review

www.erinsaudiocorner.com

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1661708-REG/kali_audio_lp_6w_v2_project_lone_pine_studio.html

Adam T5V Review (Studio Monitor)

This is a review and detailed measurements of the Adam T5V Powered Speaker. It was kindly purchased new by a member and drop shipped to me. The T5V costs US $200 each. Much like the rest of Adam speakers, the T5V has a serious look to it: Back panel shows good connectivity and usual...

www.audiosciencereview.com

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1369932-REG/adam_professional_audio_t5v_5_2_way_entry_level_studio.html

 

Question in looking at the inputs on the Adam t5V speakers....

How would I connect that to something like the Wiim Pro/Pro Plus?

I did get the Wiim pro plus and currently just have it connected to a cheap bluetooth speaker using the RCA analog out on the Wiim to a single Aux in jack on the bluetooth speaker.

Probably a dumb question but not sure how I would connect the Wiim Pro Plus to the Adam T5V speakers though? Would I need a specific type cable? Not sure the correct type of cable comes with it.

Those Adam T5V look interesting and are the right size for me. I'm looking for something no more than about 10-12 inches high as I only have about 13 inches of clearance on the shelf they'll be going on. And truthfully, while I'd love to use a subwoofer, I really don't know if I have the space for one in the area either. So just basically trying to do as well as I can and something that will have some decent bass response within the limited size and budget. Those Kali speakers do look good but think they're just a little too tall for me.

Appreciate the help! Any other similar "smaller" profile active type speakers that might be similar to the Adam speakers? Anything maybe a little bit cheaper that would be close?

 

Add a Phorus PR5 to a pair of powered speakers for $29 if you need to save a few more $$ to meet budget,
or a WiiM Amp at Amazon to any pair of passive speakers that you like.

Maybe Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 (currently on sale at Crutchfield) for the passive speakers?
accessories4less used to have Polk S20 or ES15 speakers, but are out of stock now.
If needed, add in a sub later on.

I'd like to put some low profile type setup in our living room area.
Basically, I'm looking for the least components I can get and have somewhat decent quality using wifi instead of bluetooth. I'm probably trying to keep the total budget around $500 or less.

I'm thinking maybe pairing some powered speakers with something like the WiiM Pro Plus?

I'd love to use something like the SVS Prime Pro powered speakers with the built in streamer but don't want to spend $900.

 

Appreciate the posts here. I think I've decided I want to go with the WiiM Amp after some thought and now looking for small, passive speakers.

Started a new thread for that question here since that's a new issue:

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/small-passive-bookshelf-speaker-recommendation-to-pair-with-wiim-amp.3302760/

 

Appreciate the posts here. I think I've decided I want to go with the WiiM Amp after some thought and now looking for small, passive speakers.
...

Any particular reason?

You should be aware that, for a given cabinet size, a passive speaker won't be able to match the combination of LF extension/output that's achievable with an actively amplified speaker.

 

@tts42572
This front ported speaker is super compact, just $105 each and H: 9 1/2” W: 5 3/16” D: 6 7/16”

CG3M Bookshelf Speaker - RSL Speakers

rslspeakers.com

 

Just use RCA cables.

 

More academic/purist gibberish.

Bottom line is, OP can do far better with his $500 choosing from a vast selection of high quality (yes) PASSIVE speakers with high quality compact mini-amps than "powered" or "active" speakers (keep splitting hairs and terminology if that makes you feel better) than limiting himself to a tiny selection of YOUR alleged "better" option within his limited budget.

Further, the device independence of having an easily and cheaply replaceable mini-amp not built in amps that require total device replacement is common sense and requires zero "data" to back up, in the same way that anyone saying "it's better to use a phone based GPS in your car than a stock built in GPS in your car" requires zero "data" to make that statement.

But keep harping on academic trivialities, this seems to be your favorite pedestal.

PS. People buy active subs instead of passive ones for sheer convenience AND price to performance advantages. $300 can already buy one a decent sub (e.g. RSL 10E) these days, which you would not be able to replicate with a passive sub plus outboard amp.

More academic/purist gibberish.

That's right, wheel out your old forum tactic of being deliberately obtuse so you can wave away a post without directly addressing it's substance. A predictable, arrogant attempt to save face and everyone sees right through it.

Bottom line is, OP can do far better with his $500 choosing from a vast selection of high quality (yes) PASSIVE speakers with high quality compact mini-amps than "powered" or "active" speakers (keep splitting hairs and terminology if that makes you feel better) than limiting himself to a tiny selection of YOUR alleged "better" option within his limited budget.

Where's your recommendation then? Don't just assert it - one single passive speaker plus amp system recommendation to back up the above claim will suffice. It should be dead easy, given the "vast selection" available. Remember, this is the context:

You should be aware that, for a given cabinet size, a passive speaker won't be able to match the combination of LF extension/output that's achievable with an actively amplified speaker.

...and:

Exactly---any claimed qualitative differences between powered vs passive speakers will be irrelevant and inaudible to the large majority of people, especially those coming from something like a BT party speaker vs golden-eared "audiophiles" who micro-listen to everything. ...

Further, the device independence of having an easily and cheaply replaceable mini-amp not built in amps that require total device replacement is common sense and requires zero "data" to back up, in the same way that anyone saying "it's better to use a phone based GPS in your car than a stock built in GPS in your car" requires zero "data" to make that statement.

More speaking with forked tongue/deliberate misrepresentation. You know very well that's not what I said you've never produced data for. I'll remind everyone (with emphasis added):

... What's being recommended here are active monitors, which are ubiquitous 'tools of trade' in a profession where unreliable brands/models are swiftly found out. Your old "expensive doorstops" cliché for active speakers (which you label powered) is a characterisation you never back up with data, and it simply doesn't stack up in a pursuit where nobody gives a second thought to buying active subs, where the electronics operate in a similarly harsh environment.

But keep harping on academic trivialities, this seems to be your favorite pedestal.

If you contend these are "academic trivialities", then you should be able to readily provide an alternate explanation of exactly how, in a direct comparison (post 12) between the smallest variant of active models I'd previously recommended and passive models you'd previously recommended in the OP's other thread (that is, they're not cherry-picked), the actives are measured to play slightly lower and just as loud (if not louder), despite their smaller drivers loaded into cabinets that are up to half the volume of the passives. My bet is you can't, so you'll deflect attention with a few snide backhanders.

PS. People buy active subs instead of passive ones for sheer convenience AND price to performance advantages. $300 can already buy one a decent sub (e.g. RSL 10E) these days, which you would not be able to replicate with a passive sub plus outboard amp.

Then why is it so hard to understand the same doesn't apply to active speakers? In accordance with the OP's stated priorities, I've mentioned several compact $300 to $400 active speakers in this thread. I challenge you to link measurements of any similar sized passive speakers that will replicate their "price to performance". It's time to put up or shut up.

 

That's right, wheel out your old forum tactic of being deliberately obtuse so you can wave away a post without directly addressing it's substance. A predictable, arrogant attempt to save face and everyone sees right through it.

ROTFL...in the absence of a convincing argument, you keep trying to play pseudo-psychologist with your same old predictable ad hominem attacks. Is that all you got? C'mon man, do better.

All your obsessive fixation on abstruse technical differences between "active" vs "powered" speakers still doesn't add up to a hill of beans. It's just your usual self-important techno-babble.

Your so-called "data" basically "proves" that SOME "active" speakers have a bit more LF extension than SOME "passive" speakers. Whoopty dooh!

The elementary distinction of SOME seems to escape you. Try harder, ok?

Secondly, nothing you say changes the simple fact that when the amps of ANY powered speaker die, whether "active" or not, the end user is left with a pair of expensive doorstops. Doh! THIS is the single most critical reason I advise folks to give your precious "active" speakers a hard pass. I'll be happy to retract that when you find me a pair of "active" speakers with an inexpensive and easy way to replace the amps on a couple years later when it's no longer under warranty. If you can't, pick up your toys and go home---game, set, match.

This reminds me of your previous crusade to push the silly Outlaw LFM-1 sub on everyone, oblivious to the $200 sneaky "shipping" charge that Outlaw added to the price. Once again, you get lost in the trees and fail to see the forest in front of your nose.