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Short Introduction

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1.9K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  rom_2305  
#1 ·
Hello together,

I would like to introduce myself. I am Jochen from Germany.
I am member of the german Home cinema club called "Heimkinoverein" and also a Moderator in our Forum.

Due to the fact, that I love building loudspeakers, I would like to share my hobby with you.
I already made 2 building proposals for passiv home theatre speakers and thought it might be a good idea to share with you also because all parts could also be shipped internationally from different Offerer.
I want to remark, that I earn nothing for this and only get donations from people buidling this speakers. The money I always use to develop some more.

I also have a home cinema which took me 3 years to build.

I do not know if I am allowed to put a link in here. If so, I can link one of the proposals which I translated in English.

Hope to get into good conversations with you.

Have a nice day
Jochen
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
That's pretty interesting having the mid and tweeter on a separate box that can tilt down (or up?) to point at the listening position as needed.

1) Are you securing the boxes to the wall to prevent tip over risk? With the box being relatively narrow and tall, and the top section most likely tilted forward to point down at you, it seems pretty top heavy.

2) Are there any phase issues with having the woofer playing straight on and the tweeter/mid angled? Or it's such a small change that it doesn't matter?

3) What do you mean by "bitchy" response? You mean some uneven response at spots? Like what the Beyma mid shows at 3k and 5k?

Image
 
#6 ·
That's pretty interesting having the mid and tweeter on a separate box that can tilt down (or up?) to point at the listening position as needed.

1) Are you securing the boxes to the wall to prevent tip over risk? With the box being relatively narrow and tall, and the top section most likely tilted forward to point down at you, it seems pretty top heavy.

2) Are there any phase issues with having the woofer playing straight on and the tweeter/mid angled? Or it's such a small change that it doesn't matter?

3) What do you mean by "bitchy" response? You mean some uneven response at spots? Like what the Beyma mid shows at 3k and 5k?

View attachment 3430496
Yes, you can do both. Up and down. You can see two screws on the side. One is for turning (upper one) the other one for foxing certain angles.
Most people who rebuild it do not use the suggestion of turning the top. They just build one box.
If done like this I recommend to place the woofer closer to the top section.

Regarding phase issues. I don`t think it is critical at the crossover point of 400hz (page 7 of the document). So it is as bass addict mentioned.
There you can also see the answer of your 3rd question about the mid. It made no problems. Crossover is at 2khz and you still can see the peak at 5khz, but at this time it is already 20db below the main amplitude.

Let me please emphasize that the top section works very good also because of the waveguide. There have been no phase problems at all.


The target was to develop a affordable box for people with less money and to have a very good sound quality. As I mentioned, all parts can be shipped internationally from the respective dealer.
It is not a fullrange and the measurements I made have been done in the garden, means without any roomgain. Placed on a wall or in a corner I think the crossover could be 50-60hz.


Next to that I also developed a atmos speaker with the same tweeter.
I have not translated the document now but if interested I can do this in the near future.
Here the link and a picture.
I made two versions (cheap and a little bit more expensive with the finished waveguide)

JS-SPEAKER: --- Heimkinolautsprecher mit frei zugänglichen Plänen --- "HCS - ATMOS/AURO/SURROUND" - Heimkinoverein
Image


Image
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Hope you like it
 
#4 ·
That's exactly how my Titan design is. I have the mid/CD on a swivel bracket to aim at the MLP. Of course the Titan is a whole lot deeper cab.

If that swivels around the top mounting point (which it appears to do in the photo), the COG shouldn't change much, from the straight up and down orientation.
 
#9 ·
Hello together

here are now some more of my new developments.



Plans (Woodworking, Parts, ...) and Crossovers are within the PDF documents.
 
#11 ·
Hello,


I wanted to share some feedback because I recently built the HCS LTB MAX as a replacement for my B&W CT7.3 speakers — and I couldn’t be happier with the change!!! Honestly, there’s no comparison at all.


In my home theater, I use a micro-perforated PVC acoustically transparent screen, with very little space between the screen and the speakers. On top of that, I usually sit at the very back of the room to avoid an uneven LFE response. Both of these factors really didn’t work well with the CT7.3.


I was getting clear comb-filtering effects, the front stage wasn’t sharp, and I had to push the mids too much in EQ, which caused distortion and unnatural voices.


The HCS LTB MAX solved all of these issues.


When I listened for the first time, I was honestly a bit surprised: the midrange is so powerful and clear! The sonic philosophy is completely different from B&W, and after more than 10 years with that brand, I had to recalibrate my ears and get used to it.


Now, I’m absolutely thrilled with the change!!!


These speakers offer a lot of headroom and flexibility for adjustments. The sound is pure cinema: voices are crystal clear, the dynamics are on another level compared to what I’ve ever had in my room, and the impact is simply incomparable to my previous speakers.


Voices are now perfectly anchored, coming exactly from the right spot on the screen, with a natural timbre and a beautiful texture.


I’m genuinely excited!


If anyone is hesitating: go for it! It’s absolutely worth it. You can tell that every euro invested goes into sound quality, not marketing or branding.
 
#13 ·
Now I’m considering an upgrade by replacing the compression driver with a B&C DE250, but I’m wondering if simply changing the L-PAD in the crossover to adapt to the higher sensitivity will be enough, or if I would need to go deeper into the crossover design — in which case I don’t really have the skills for that...