Assuming it can handle 4K HDCP 2.2 you probably should connect everything to the receiver and treat it as your master, does everything selector box. Just like your speakers, your TV display becomes a plain Jane "monitor". A passive unit that other than turning it on it makes no other decisions. Volume, source selection, balance, surround mode, etc. all get handled by the receiver.


That's in theory however there are often unforeseen issues so don't commit to that wiring until you have verified it works for you.

 

+1

Always to receiver if you have a high quality receiver. Don't trust the electronics in the tv.

Yes, this is only in theory, but it's a very sound theory.

 

Am sure thoughts and preferences vary (obviously), however, I have read a number of advice-givers also say that the upscaling is likely to be better overall using the processor of the TV itself--presumably, the TV manufacturer knows best how to maximize the signal for reproduction.

Am also sure that others with different thoughts have good reason for them, too, and I would like to understand the main issues better.

 

And how does connecting to a receiver first effect this? The receiver will (or can be configured to anyway) directly pass-through the video to allow the TV to scale/process. Certainly some receivers have built-in video processors, maybe some very high-end ones could best a low-end TV, but I'm unaware of any that can't be disabled.

That said, if your receiver supports HDMI 2.0a, I'd connect everything to that first. If it doesn't, then you don't have a choice but to connect to the TV any HDMI 2.0a devices from which you want to get 4k content. Due to this, you'll lose any HD audio and possibly more (e.g. surround and / or Atmos) depending on your TV's support for ARC pass-through from connected devices.

 

Generally the best scaling, when it has to be done, is in whatever product is the newest and most expensive.
2016 scalers are better than 2014 scalers and the free one you get in your $99 disc player is not likely as good as the one in your $1000 TV.

I actually suspect age trumps price, i.e. a scaler in a $100 2016 product beats a $200 scaler in a $2014 product, but obviously it really has to be addressed on a case by case basis.

Most inexpensive AVRs merely switch 4K signals, by the way, they don't actually upscale incoming lower definitions.

 

Video aside, audio will likely suffer if you hook to the TV first. Optical has lower bandwidth than HDMI and likely will pass through 5.1 or less audio. Check your manual to see what audio your TV will pass through from all inputs.

 

Thanks, boys, and keep your comments coming. You are helping me to comprehend more and better, and thereby make better decisions.

 

I have everything connected to the TV and then an optical from the TV to the receiver, but I have to do it that way because my receiver is 14 years old and predates HDMI.

The drawback is that for Blu-Rays I only get DD and regular DTS, the optical link can't handle the new formats like Dolby TrueHD and DTS Master Audio. I'll soon fix that by installing a new UHD Blu-Ray player with discrete analog outs that I can run into the analog multichannel inputs on my receiver.

One big benefit is that I can set up custom picture settings for different inputs. The TV picture settings I use for my satellite box are different from the ones I use for my blu-ray player (which are different from the ones I use for built-in apps). If you run all of your external devices through the receiver you'll have to manually switch picture settings when you select a new device.

 

One big benefit is that I can set up custom picture settings for different inputs. The TV picture settings I use for my satellite box are different from the ones I use for my blu-ray player (which are different from the ones I use for built-in apps). If you run all of your external devices through the receiver you'll have to manually switch picture settings when you select a new device.

That is very true and I lost that functionality when I changed to a new receiver with pass-through switching while in standby. I find that the convenience and lack of cable clutter makes up for it. Most of my setting really only varied a little in brightness and I really do not notice it now. I have a night and a day calibration which only vary in brightness and one of them usually suits my viewing quite well. Easy enough to switch back and forth. You could easily enough set up several custom calibrations, name them for the device and switch when you change devices.

 

I have a Pioneer SC-1523 [basically the same as the Elite 7-something] which is roughly the same vintage as yours. I just added a Samsung KS8000 and an Oppo 203 to the mix. While the Pioneer may pass 4K, it won't pass either HDR10 metadata or meet the HDCP 2.2 spec so you lose the full effect of the latest and greatest. I left everything not 4K / WCG plugged into the receiver [FireTV / Apple TV in my case] and plugged the Oppo into the TV inputs [with the Oppo 2nd HDMI output into the receiver].

I think only the last two years of Pioneer receivers are sufficiently current to work with the newest specs.

 

I am facing the same situation. New gear. Total Newbie. Denon AVS 750, 5.1 speaker set up, Samsung Frame 75", planning on using YouTube TV and Music, Netflix, not much else. Haven't crossed the threshold to gaming, Alexa/Assistant, etc. Open to thoughts on favorite devices/inputs.

I will put the 1-box in the wall behind the TV, so it would be easiest to only run 1 HDMI to the receiver (down the wall, under the floor, across the room in my case) and not have to get back there again. I am wondering if it makes sense to make any other connections up front, and if it ever makes sense or is possible to switch back and forth between signal from the receiver and direct to tv.

Thanks in advance! Jeff

 

Receiver.

 

Since someone bumped 5 year old to


Depends on the gear. If a person has HDMI 2.1 devices and a TV that supports HDMI 2.1 and eARC, connecting through the TV is 100% the better way to go unless they are planning on buying a 2021 or 2022 HDMI 2.1 receiver.

 

Unless all devices are HDMI 2.1 and eARC compliant... it's a moot point.

Here lies the rub:
1) Do you want the TV to be your switching/controller hub?
2) Do you want the receiver to be your switching/controller?

 

Also, connecting to TV first can cause lipsync issues. Video comes in the TV HDMI port and is displayed. Audio is then passed down the chain to the receiver. By the time it reaches the receiver it may be delayed enough to notice it being out of sync from the video. Receiver can't correct for that, it can't "speed up" the audio to match the video.

Going the other way, you'll be fine. Source comes in the AVR HDMI port. Audio is played and the video passed down the chain to the TV. Now sound might be ahead of the video but the receiver can easily correct for that by tweaking the audio delay setting.

 

This happened to me. New receiver connected via eARC to the TV. Audio out of sync. Had to adjust it in the TV.

 

Similar question - I have everything connected to my Yamaha AV1010 AVR via HDMI and it seems to work (the TV is a TCL about 4 years old). The only issue is that if I want to watch Netflix, that app is on the TV, so it doesn't go through the AVR or its attached speakers. I do that so rarely that it doesn't really matter much. I also have a Sony x800 player which also has a Netflix app, but I've never tried it. And, finally, can I get Netflix on my computer? Its HDMI out is connected to the AVR also.

 

I for one use my receiver for sound only, which it gets from the tv through eARC. Works perfectly.

But then I only have one source, which is taped to the back of the tv, with all wiring inside the wall and the receiver in my office some 12 meter of hdmi cable away...