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Like projectors? Check Out Ep.5 of the AVSForum Podcast. Click here for details.
PassingInterest
In a word--Yes!
mrgfy6--Choosing between a Router Table or a Benchtop Jointer is easy.
The Router Table wins hands-down for versatility.
As you mentioned, you can shim the outfeed side of your fence and use your Router Table for Jointing. I'm actually considering selling my jointer for that very reason, to free up some floor space in my garage. Of course, that means I can't joint 6" faces any more, but there are ways around that.
Build yourself a Router Table. You won't be sorry. Here is a link to one that I built recently. You have to wade through the humor. But, there's a Router Table in there somewhere.
Edit: Oops! I forgot to answer your Crosscut Sled question.
Here's what I did--First, I measured the slot with some calipers, then I cut the rail from some Oak I had.
The fit was slightly too tight for the slot, so I carefully hand-sanded it until it fit just right--you don't want any slop. Then I rubbed some parafin wax on it to help it glide in the slot.
Okay, the Rail is ready for a sled.
If your blade is square to your slot and your fence is square to your slot, the next step is easy. Otherwise, square up your tablesaw first.
Cut your sled to a useful size--but slightly wider than you want. It's okay to have two or more sleds in different sizes for ease of use.
Now for the assembly. Place the rail in the slot and place the sled on it. Lower your blade below the table surface and set your fence so that your sled will get trimmed when you raise it for cutting.
Make sure your sled is square against the fence and drive some nails or screws into the rail from above.
Raise the blade and trim the sled end.
Now you just need the final piece at the lower edge of the sled.
Since everything is square already, you should be really close to square--if not exact--if you simply attach a board along the lower edge of the sled. But, begin by attaching only one screw at one end and use a framing square to make sure you are square to the blade, before putting any more screws in.
Sorry I don't have any pictures of that. Read through the instructions a couple of times and you will see how easy it is to make a crosscut sled.
In a word--Yes!
mrgfy6--Choosing between a Router Table or a Benchtop Jointer is easy.
The Router Table wins hands-down for versatility.
As you mentioned, you can shim the outfeed side of your fence and use your Router Table for Jointing. I'm actually considering selling my jointer for that very reason, to free up some floor space in my garage. Of course, that means I can't joint 6" faces any more, but there are ways around that.
Build yourself a Router Table. You won't be sorry. Here is a link to one that I built recently. You have to wade through the humor. But, there's a Router Table in there somewhere.
Edit: Oops! I forgot to answer your Crosscut Sled question.
Here's what I did--First, I measured the slot with some calipers, then I cut the rail from some Oak I had.
The fit was slightly too tight for the slot, so I carefully hand-sanded it until it fit just right--you don't want any slop. Then I rubbed some parafin wax on it to help it glide in the slot.
Okay, the Rail is ready for a sled.
If your blade is square to your slot and your fence is square to your slot, the next step is easy. Otherwise, square up your tablesaw first.
Cut your sled to a useful size--but slightly wider than you want. It's okay to have two or more sleds in different sizes for ease of use.
Now for the assembly. Place the rail in the slot and place the sled on it. Lower your blade below the table surface and set your fence so that your sled will get trimmed when you raise it for cutting.
Make sure your sled is square against the fence and drive some nails or screws into the rail from above.
Raise the blade and trim the sled end.
Now you just need the final piece at the lower edge of the sled.
Since everything is square already, you should be really close to square--if not exact--if you simply attach a board along the lower edge of the sled. But, begin by attaching only one screw at one end and use a framing square to make sure you are square to the blade, before putting any more screws in.
Sorry I don't have any pictures of that. Read through the instructions a couple of times and you will see how easy it is to make a crosscut sled.
P.I.-First of all, just what everyone else is saying, GREAT WORK! now, a couple of questions; What is the best way to go about making an accurate crosscut sled? and secondly, I've got a "descent" table saw, would you reccommend a router table next, or a benchtop jointer? I have a "descent" planer(the Dewalt model below yours...works great for me), the saw, a miter saw, and the misc. small stuff. Just wondering which would be a more widely used tool...I don't plan on making many tables, etc that would warrent paneling 1X stock, but they are nice for doors and such...I've also seen "jointing shims" for router tables(I'm sure much like mortising attachments for drill presses)...
And now back to the main feature...(watching in awe)
And now back to the main feature...(watching in awe)
LF911--LOL! I wish I had his tools and talent.
Fronts, backs and sides for two boxes. Oh, and two pretty faces (on top of the stacks--those are the two glued panels). Each box will have two forward-firing 10" NHT 083s in it. Those are for the rear of the room. For the front I intend to build two boxes, twice as tall with four forward-firing 083s. 8 up front and 4 in back still gives me 12 Thunder-Makers in the living room. If that's not enough to annoy my neighbors, I've still got 6 more of those drivers waiting for boxes. Sweeeet!
![Image]()
The 3/4" Aruco plywood does not have the look I want, so it is likely that I will do some veneering.
In the truck bed, the Two-By-To-Be stock is baking in the sun.
By the way, I don't think I thanked you fine folks nearly enough for all the help and advice you've given me for this project. I couldn't have done it without all your help. Go ahead, take a bow. You deserve it.
Fronts, backs and sides for two boxes. Oh, and two pretty faces (on top of the stacks--those are the two glued panels). Each box will have two forward-firing 10" NHT 083s in it. Those are for the rear of the room. For the front I intend to build two boxes, twice as tall with four forward-firing 083s. 8 up front and 4 in back still gives me 12 Thunder-Makers in the living room. If that's not enough to annoy my neighbors, I've still got 6 more of those drivers waiting for boxes. Sweeeet!
The 3/4" Aruco plywood does not have the look I want, so it is likely that I will do some veneering.
In the truck bed, the Two-By-To-Be stock is baking in the sun.
By the way, I don't think I thanked you fine folks nearly enough for all the help and advice you've given me for this project. I couldn't have done it without all your help. Go ahead, take a bow. You deserve it.
Scrape some glue.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The plane, boss! The plane! Sorry, I just had a Fantasy Island flash-back.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Square one end.
![Image]()
Cut to length.
![Image]()
I didn't take any shots of my ripping these boards, but I don't think anyone would find that interesting anyway. So, now I'm cutting them to length.
Set a stop, for multiple cuts of the same length.
![Image]()
Get impatient and cut them all at once.
![Image]()
These boards were cut from the same Ash 1xs that I used to make the glued panels you saw earlier. They are going to replace the pine 2xs for the front and rear long edges.
The plane, boss! The plane! Sorry, I just had a Fantasy Island flash-back.
Square one end.
Cut to length.
I didn't take any shots of my ripping these boards, but I don't think anyone would find that interesting anyway. So, now I'm cutting them to length.
Set a stop, for multiple cuts of the same length.
Get impatient and cut them all at once.
These boards were cut from the same Ash 1xs that I used to make the glued panels you saw earlier. They are going to replace the pine 2xs for the front and rear long edges.
Thanks for the encouragement, guys.
I'm trying to be less verbose than usual this time. You'll thank me for it later.
![Image]()
I figured that if anyone had any questions, they'd ask. If nobody asked, I'd later hear a few, "Oh, so that's what he was up to with that."
dykz34--The Ash 1x boards you saw earlier I got many-moons ago for really cheap. They've just been waiting for a project. The trim you saw is actually the routed edges of those boards sliced off. I did that so I can edge glue the boards to make some panels for the face of the 2 small boxes I am building. These were originally going to be some ugly test boxes, but things began falling into place on the design, so I decided to just forge ahead, instead.
Oddly, I actually thought that the 2x4s were oak, since they came with some rough hewn oak I bought, and they were rough, also. The funny thing is I did not realize they were pine until after I finished planing them. I must have been tired. I don't think I will use them in this build except perhaps for internal bracing, because I don't like the look of the grain. Not for this project, anyway. So, you will likely see them go away and be replaced with something else. Their intended use? They are for the four long edges of each box. Or, at least the front 2 edges. I'm not fully decided on whether or not I want to round the back edges. By using solid wood edges, I can round over the edge without exposing plywood layers. It would probably help if I provided a google sketchup, so you can see what I mean. It's not like I'm too impatient to draw it out, but power tools are calling to me and I must obey.
Which brings me back to the glued panels. I can roundover the edges and speaker holes (rear mounted drivers) without exposing plywood edges. Exposed plywood edges can look good, but that is not the look I am after for this build.
I messed up by not showing a picture of the saw ripping the trim off the routed edges of the boards. I think that confused people. My bad. I don't know if I will be able to work the trim pieces into the design or not, but I'd like to.
Feel free to ask questions. I don't mind.
But, here I am getting all verbose again. Sorry guys.
I'm trying to be less verbose than usual this time. You'll thank me for it later.
I figured that if anyone had any questions, they'd ask. If nobody asked, I'd later hear a few, "Oh, so that's what he was up to with that."
dykz34--The Ash 1x boards you saw earlier I got many-moons ago for really cheap. They've just been waiting for a project. The trim you saw is actually the routed edges of those boards sliced off. I did that so I can edge glue the boards to make some panels for the face of the 2 small boxes I am building. These were originally going to be some ugly test boxes, but things began falling into place on the design, so I decided to just forge ahead, instead.
Oddly, I actually thought that the 2x4s were oak, since they came with some rough hewn oak I bought, and they were rough, also. The funny thing is I did not realize they were pine until after I finished planing them. I must have been tired. I don't think I will use them in this build except perhaps for internal bracing, because I don't like the look of the grain. Not for this project, anyway. So, you will likely see them go away and be replaced with something else. Their intended use? They are for the four long edges of each box. Or, at least the front 2 edges. I'm not fully decided on whether or not I want to round the back edges. By using solid wood edges, I can round over the edge without exposing plywood layers. It would probably help if I provided a google sketchup, so you can see what I mean. It's not like I'm too impatient to draw it out, but power tools are calling to me and I must obey.
Which brings me back to the glued panels. I can roundover the edges and speaker holes (rear mounted drivers) without exposing plywood edges. Exposed plywood edges can look good, but that is not the look I am after for this build.
I messed up by not showing a picture of the saw ripping the trim off the routed edges of the boards. I think that confused people. My bad. I don't know if I will be able to work the trim pieces into the design or not, but I'd like to.
Feel free to ask questions. I don't mind.
But, here I am getting all verbose again. Sorry guys.
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