Sounds like you are doing the right thing by thinking about your future plans before you begin construction. I also just recently built a new house with a planned HT in the basement. There are 2 things I wish I would have ponied up the cash for at the time. I went with 9' ceilings in the basment(really 8'10" after pad is poured) and wish I would have went with either 10' for the entire basement or dug a foot down for the front of the theater. 9' is nice, but after you consider the pad, riser and duct work, I am going to be left with some areas with a 7' ceiling height in the HT. This work and is fine, but could have been avoided if I paid a couple thousand more for 10'. Also make sure you know what the HVAC plan is and how that impacts your HT. I showed up on site one day with 2 trucks running down my future HT. Not fun to move those now after the fact.


Good luck and have fun with the process!

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron_C  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-...e-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room/0_100#post_22889982


Sounds like you are doing the right thing by thinking about your future plans before you begin construction. I also just recently built a new house with a planned HT in the basement. There are 2 things I wish I would have ponied up the cash for at the time. I went with 9' ceilings in the basment(really 8'10" after pad is poured) and wish I would have went with either 10' for the entire basement or dug a foot down for the front of the theater. 9' is nice, but after you consider the pad, riser and duct work, I am going to be left with some areas with a 7' ceiling height in the HT. This work and is fine, but could have been avoided if I paid a couple thousand more for 10'. Also make sure you know what the HVAC plan is and how that impacts your HT. I showed up on site one day with 2 trucks running down my future HT. Not fun to move those now after the fact.


Good luck and have fun with the process!

The typical height is 8', and I'm paying the $2k for the 9'. I don't think that 10' is an option (would be nice!)


I have some idea of what the HVAC plan is. I've been trying to get straight answers with regards to the "model house" vs what we'd buy. As it stands, I believe that the trunks run just outside - parallel to the room. Perhaps I can get a copy of the HVAC plan somehow. I'm trying to get blueprints because I want to know what I'm paying for, and I know they'd be immensely helpful down the road.


Are you going to have to move the trunks, or were they willing to work with you? (I know they are not easy to move!)


Thanks for the reply. Glad to know that I'm not totally clueless.

 

You can always "remind" your builder that you paid for 9' ceilings. Then let them figure out how to make sure you get 9' ceilings. Maybe I'm reading what you posted in the wrong tone, but it would seriously peeve me if my builder had said that. Are you locked into that builder?


A layout of the proposed basement would be nice. There are things like keeping the stairs near an exterior wall that are a good idea. Putting the mechanical room well away from the theater to reduce noise. Having the theater on it's own zone or a separate dedicated HVAC unit. BTW, you need to pay careful attention to the HVAC design as home theaters are different than most other rooms in the house. Consider putting the theater in an area that is away from noise on the other floors. Try not to put it under the kid's rooms if you are worried about keeping them awake, etc. Have an electrical sub panel added with extra slots for upgrades. Again, a layout would really help with specific advice.

 

I don't think that you're reading the tone wrong. We aren't locked into the builder yet. I am frustrated with the fact that things seem rather inflexible when it comes to moving or modifying things. I guess in order to get the extra flexibility, you need a custom builder? Who knows. The builder is mentioned in the attached plans. The rooms above would be great room, kitchen area. Not bedrooms.


I'm aware of the considerations with HVAC design and noise levels. I actually measured the DB reading of the HVAC the other day, so at least I have a baseline noise level. It's not loud, but I want to get it right if I can. I'd love to move the HVAC to a far corner, but I don't think that's an option. But even a foot or two away from the HT wall would be helpful as I could better treat that space.


Paying for 200A service, already planning a subpanel for amps and gear.


Here are floor plans. The room would be the larger of the 2 areas. We're doing unfinished, but unfortunately it doesn't have raw dimensions. So I've also included the finished plan. Basically add 8" or so to the finished dims. We are not doing the bathroom or the egress window as they're shown in the finished plans either.

Mercury Unfinished Basement.pdf 74k .pdf file
Mercury Finished Basement.pdf 169k .pdf file


Thanks for everybody's comments... I appreciate them.


I've thought about flexing my mettle and pushing for some things, but I don't know that the salesperson is the right person to agree to what I want. Apparently most people don't ask the questions that I have about moving things, wiring, blueprints, etc. It makes me feel crazy, because I'm asking things like what brand the main service panel is!

 

We like to have them embedded. Although, with the size of those drawings, it doesn't help much

Here goes anyway:





Building a house is a huge investment. Your builder should be willing to answer questions until you are comfortable with the product you are getting. My builder said repeatedly that I asked about things no one else had, but he never hesitated to answer or put me in touch with the subs that could. I can't imagine how stressful it would be to work with a builder that didn't do that.


Can you move the sump? Otherwise you'll need to have an access panel for it in your theater. Which way will the LVL's run? Will that room be blocked off by LVLs? If so, that will make plumbing, HVAC, and electrical a nightmare. Again, if you are paying for 9' ceilings, I'd make sure I got them. I have a 9' ceiling in my basement as well, and once you add a riser and soffits, it eats that up quickly! I'm not saying you can't get creative with your soffit design and layout, but it's such a hassle to do after the fact when it can be handled so much better on the front end.

 

Thanks, I didn’t realize that you could embed PDFs. OK, it sounds like maybe I need to be a little pushier with my questions. I understand their push for efficiency and standardization, but if I’m sinking the money that I am, it should be my right. Perhaps I can require them to seek some input in running HVAC with LVLs.


Yeah, I was planning on an access door for the sump. Not ideal.


I believe that the LVLs MIGHT block it off. AT least from the stuff that I saw, there was very little electrical, plumbing and HVAC in that room. Most of it was in the other smaller room area.


The actual ceiling design is up in the air a little bit because the code change JUST happened with regards to I-Beam vs LVL. The I-beams as-is burn too fast (Ohio building code) , so require some additional treatment or changes to the product (from the MFGR)…….. So until that gets sorted out (new product, or change in product treatment) , the builder has to do LVL joists. The I-beams definitely give a much cleaner layout, as they can even run ducts perpendicular to the joists.

 

As fas as the HT itself, this thread helped me alot when planning mine

http://www.avsforum.com/t/855958/what-id-do-differently-next-time

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by homeav  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room#post_22890467


Thanks, I didn’t realize that you could embed PDFs. OK, it sounds like maybe I need to be a little pushier with my questions. I understand their push for efficiency and standardization, but if I’m sinking the money that I am, it should be my right. Perhaps I can require them to seek some input in running HVAC with LVLs.


Yeah, I was planning on an access door for the sump. Not ideal.


I believe that the LVLs MIGHT block it off. AT least from the stuff that I saw, there was very little electrical, plumbing and HVAC in that room. Most of it was in the other smaller room area.


The actual ceiling design is up in the air a little bit because the code change JUST happened with regards to I-Beam vs LVL. The I-beams as-is burn too fast (Ohio building code) , so require some additional treatment or changes to the product (from the MFGR)…….. So until that gets sorted out (new product, or change in product treatment) , the builder has to do LVL joists. The I-beams definitely give a much cleaner layout, as they can even run ducts perpendicular to the joists.

I converted it to a jpg.


They could always pour another 8"-12" deeper to account for the HVAC being below the subfloor (on their dime). I doubt they'll like the sound of that, but it might get them to look into more options. Of course, all of this is speculative until you have a better idea of where the ducts will go and what size they are. If it turns out there is very little intrusion into the room, then it's not a big deal, and you can probably hide it in a duct. I'm just the sort of person to make a point out of it if the builder is not being cooperative.


I'll quit harping on that for now.


Have you thought any about the number of people you would like to get in the room? Seating arrangements and the like? That will determine quite a bit about the size of the space needed, etc. 17' x 23' is a pretty good sized room.

 

I appreciate you harping on it. That's exactly what I wanted to hear! Some constructive criticisms. I was planning on 2 rows of 3, or MAYBE front row of 3, second row of 4.


I'm pretty set on having a center "best room in the house" seat.


I had the luxury of taking a number of classes at CEDIA Expo 2012, including an Advanced Design Lab class (One of the coolest things that I've EVER done), so I have some familiarity with best practices and CEDIA recomendations. The more I learn the less I know, however.

I'm planning on an AT screen, so will lose a couple feet for subs and speakers..

 

Ah. I gotcha.


I see you are in Ohio. I'm not particularly familiar with their climate, but I imagine it gets cold. Have you discussed requirements for waterproofing and insulating the basement? Possibly closed cell foam on the walls. I don't know what the requirements are to establish a vapor barrier, but it's not something to take lightly. From a home theater standpoint you want to make sure the framed walls do not touch the insulation on the concrete walls to maintain your decoupling.


I'm not clear on whether you are going to finish the basement or the contractor.

 

The exterior of the wall (dirt facing) will have insulation and a barrier of some kind. I forget the specific building system (I should ask). Walls will be poured.


I've read mixed answers about what the current Ohio basement insulation requirement is. One edition was "R10/R13": R-10 on outside, OR R-13 on inside. I was planning on maybe 3/4" or 1" rigid on the inside and THEN 2x4 walls with R13 fiberglass --- with a 1" air gap. I believe that a vapor barrier is NOT required, but using rigid foam is recommended for the life of the fiberglass. I can't imagine not doing rigid foam. It would give me peace of mind.


I was planning on finishing the basement, not the contractor. I'd have to search long and hard for a contractor that I'd trust to do a HT... (either that or BigMouthinDC

).


I'm less concerned about finishing at the moment... since I'll need to do some research, and I'll make a new post to get some input on best practices (building above code). I just want to make sure that I don't overlook something that isn't......fixable later.

 

Well, some interesting news tonight.


Still no moving HVAC... BUT, I pushed the issue with drops beneath the ceiling hard enough........ that they're going to come up with prints for me to review.... and I have the option to back out of the contract if I'm unhappy with them. In addition, they MIGHT revise them if there is something that I'm not happy with. I think that it was clear that if they wouldn't budge, I was ready to walk.


I made it clear that runs down the middle are a no-go and runs beneath the 9' that I'm paying for are a big deal.


Perhaps best case scenario is that anything will be near edge of the room - and I can do soffits which I was kind of hoping to do for cosmetic reasons anyway. Seems doable with 9'? (I hope??)


So, thanks for the moral support!!

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by THEJMAN311  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-...e-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room/0_100#post_22890468


As fas as the HT itself, this thread helped me alot when planning mine

http://www.avsforum.com/t/855958/what-id-do-differently-next-time

I've seen that thread before, thanks for posting it again!!

 

I hope they are willing to compromise. Maybe during your next meeting with them, you can point to the title block of your plans where it says, "Dominion - It's your home".

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-...e-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room/0_100#post_22893948


I hope they are willing to compromise. Maybe during your next meeting with them, you can point to the title block of your plans where it says, "Dominion - It's your home".

Well, if they aren't willing to work with me and I'm unhappy, I can still walk away.


That's funny (well, that's not quite the word)...... "YOUR" home.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by homeav  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room#post_22895021


Well, if they aren't willing to work with me and I'm unhappy, I can still walk away.

Once you get to that point, it becomes a LOT easier to negotiate!

 

That works when your buying a car, too. If they think you're ready to walk, they'll start dealing.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-...e-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room/0_100#post_22895567


That works when your buying a car, too. If they think you're ready to walk, they'll start dealing.

Couldn't agree more!


Glad I stuck to my guns.. Not sure I would have been so adamant if I didn't start the discussion here.

Should know within a few days what the plans look like.


I guess I can't get "loganed" until I actually start construction, can I? Or at least the house.... hah!

 



Quote:
I guess I can't get "loganed" until I actually start construction, can I?

Anything is possible in Dimension X, my friend, ANYTHING.

 

Still waiting on plans.......


blah.

 

Well, after over a week of fighting for 9' ceilings without drops, I've lost the battle! Dominion just won't budge. Won't do fire rated joists, won't drywall...... won't do a deeper pour (they claim issues with sewer system depth)... The proposed HVAC plans involved 6-8 drops below the joists....which I thought was... crap. (Yeah, I don't know of a better word.)


Don't think that walking away is going to change anything at this point either. I'm not the only customer fighting this battle. Kudos to my salesperson whose tried to escalate the issue as much as possible..


ARGHH!!!!


Guess I'll have to see what I can learn about framing a ceiling, if I chose to go forward. Maybe if I'm lucky I can still get close to 8' once I hide everything above.


Anybody have any good threads with examples of nicely framed out ceilings? I really had my heard set on doing clips and hat channel!

Probably need to read up on how to best handle (acoustically) HVAC above the ceiling too, since there are going to be a number of runs.

 

Have you looked at any other builders?

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-...e-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room/0_100#post_22927058


Have you looked at any other builders?

Not very hard.


What's frustrating is that we like so much about the house (there is lots to love) I've just been stuck on the basement, because that's what I care most about.


Part of the challenge is the building code change. Other builders won't be able to use I-joists either. The only *hope* could possibly be that they MIGHT consider dry walling it -- but it sounded like there is some resistance in the permitting process to using I-Joists even w/drywall.


I wish I knew how legitimate the pour depth - sewage depth concern was.


I could always move out of Ohio too..... then wouldn't have to deal with Ohio building code... haha!

 

I just proposed a deeper pour for half the basement..... the area that I care about.


It's about the only thing I haven't tried!!

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by homeav  /t/1454829/building-a-home-looking-...e-looking-for-any-gotchas-to-be-aware-of-for-dedicated-room/0_100#post_22927146


I just proposed a deeper pour for half the basement..... the area that I care about.


It's about the only thing I haven't tried!!

That idea went down in flames too...