[ConnecTEDDD]

Does aperture make a difference? If so, what is the proper distance when profiling these two meters determined?

- Rich

Hey Rich, we have talked about this here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...39-display-calibration/1174468-official-chromapure-thread-244.html#post51983329

I'm posting the link for the other users to see.

 

[Pepelegal]

Bought a new 65B7 this week. My last TV was a 55EC930V.

I have to say that the B7 is a much better TV. But I can see a more pronounced banding on this set than what I had in the EC930. I hope it improves with time.

So far what I found more interesting was the black tuning control. The B7 allows for a much more fine brightness tuning than the EC930. Yesterday, I had to decrease the brightness to 51 in order to really have 100% blacks. Level 52 seemed black until I stuck my nose in front of the panel and saw a very, very dim light.

I'm letting my panel to have some hours of use before I try any calibration because it really is changing each day. I started with a brightness of 54 for instance, now is 51. Colors are different too.

Does anyone know how I can check the number of hours of use and the number of panel recalibrations?

 

[jrref]

Folks, in case you are interested, I did Color Volume scans of the C7 and the A1. You can view them here -> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...ogy-flat-panels-general/2815857-sony-a1e-calibration-thread-9.html#post53349906

 

[jrref]

Bought a new 65B7 this week. My last TV was a 55EC930V.

I have to say that the B7 is a much better TV. But I can see a more pronounced banding on this set than what I had in the EC930. I hope it improves with time.

So far what I found more interesting was the black tuning control. The B7 allows for a much more fine brightness tuning than the EC930. Yesterday, I had to decrease the brightness to 51 in order to really have 100% blacks. Level 52 seemed black until I stuck my nose in front of the panel and saw a very, very dim light.

I'm letting my panel to have some hours of use before I try any calibration because it really is changing each day. I started with a brightness of 54 for instance, now is 51. Colors are different too.

Does anyone know how I can check the number of hours of use and the number of panel recalibrations?

You don't need to adjust the brightness on these 2017 sets like you did on the 2016 sets. I've "played" with it and you kill the black when you raise the brightness. The only thing you can do if you want is raise it 1 click to 51 but not more than that or you will not get true blacks when watching good content.

 

[Pepelegal]

You don't need to adjust the brightness on these 2017 sets like you did on the 2016 sets. I've "played" with it and you kill the black when you raise the brightness. The only thing you can do if you want is raise it 1 click to 51 but not more than that or you will not get true blacks when watching good content.

jrref,

On Monday when I received my set I had to raise the brightness to 54 because I had a very strong black crush (pq was too dark overall). But yesterday I had to adjust again and had to reduce it to 51 in order to have the right level (100% black level).

And, from what you mention I will probably have to adjust it again to level 50 (the original value)...maybe that means the panel has "matured". I'm really noticing the panel changing with more hours of use.

Thats why I don't even attempt to calibrate it now until it settles a little bit. I think my set only has around 10-15 hours of use so far...

I have some questions:

1) Did you noticed any improvement with the banding with the increase use of the set ?
2) Any idea of how many hours until the panel "settles" to try calibrating it?
3) Is it a good idea to force a "Panel Clear" in order to see if the banding improves ?

Thanks.

 

[jrref]

jrref,

On Monday when I received my set I had to raise the brightness to 54 because I had a very strong black crush (pq was too dark overall). But yesterday I had to adjust again and had to reduce it to 51 in order to have the right level (100% black level).

And, from what you mention I will probably have to adjust it again to level 50 (the original value)...maybe that means the panel has "matured". I'm really noticing the panel changing with more hours of use.

Thats why I don't even attempt to calibrate it now until it settles a little bit. I think my set only has around 10-15 hours of use so far...

I have some questions:

1) Did you noticed any improvement with the banding with the increase use of the set ?
2) Any idea of how many hours until the panel "settles" to try calibrating it?
3) Is it a good idea to force a "Panel Clear" in order to see if the banding improves ?

Thanks.

My recommendation is to do one Panel Clear when you get the set. It won't hurt anything and will clear up any minor issues and make sure that the voltages are "leveled" across the screen. If you do your own calibration, you can wait about 50 hours then do an initial adjustment but normally you need at least 200-250 hours before the screen settles to do a calibration. Yes, in my case, I have noticed that whatever banding remains, it will get slightly better over time but eventually it is what it is.

As far as your black situation, part of it is that the screen is settling and the other part is that your eyes are adjusting and your brain is getting used to the OLED picture When it's all said and done, unless you have the OLED light way down, you are probably going to have brightness set at 50 or 51.

 

[D-Nice]

You don't need to adjust the brightness on these 2017 sets like you did on the 2016 sets. I've "played" with it and you kill the black when you raise the brightness. The only thing you can do if you want is raise it 1 click to 51 but not more than that or you will not get true blacks when watching good content.

This will be dependent on signal type. LG still has not learned how to make this universal. RGB signals still requires a different brightness setting compared to 4:4:4. 1080i/60 still requires a different brightness setting compared to 1080p/24. On my 65 C7, it's either 51 or 52 but never 50 unless we are talking about HDR.

 

[jrref]

What ire's do you folks use to calibrate the HDR 2pt? 30/80? 30/70? Any feedback on which works best?

 

[Mrbonus]

How much better can a oled tv like the c7 look after a professional calibration?

 

[RichB]

How much better can a oled tv like the c7 look after a professional calibration?

It depends on how far off it is. Some of the review show quite a bit of drift in the C7 grayscale. Once that is fixed, the colors are very close. Much better then the B6.
I can calibrate SDR but my meters don't stack up against the pro's. I have not had the opportunity to calibrate HDR. The tone-mapping is a bit more aggressive than I would like, without Dynamic Contrast=Low, there are many films that appear dark in the mid-tones.

I'd like the option to chose tone-mapping approaches on the C7. Dynamic Contrast=Low produces a big change but thus far, this is my choice.

Back to your original question, @ChadB ;calibrated my B6 and had the experience to correct many of its issues that I simply did not know nor have the experience to fix. He also calibrated HDR. You are also paying for this experience. Once completed, I copied his SDR settings to Cinema mode and used my meters to get the DE vanishing low. My meters are not as accurate as a pro's, but in the end, I could switch between the two settings and could not tell the difference.

- Rich

 

[rotarydude]

Are the 2017 model still wacked out on the CMS like the 2016 models (HDR).

 

[jrref]

Are the 2017 model still wacked out on the CMS like the 2016 models (HDR).

No for SDR, Yes for HDR

 

[rotarydude]

awesome, just waiting for my C7P to get that 100hrs for the first calibration run

 

[D-Nice]

Are the 2017 model still wacked out on the CMS like the 2016 models (HDR).

Are you asking if the CMS causes aritifscts if used in HDR mode? If so, yes they do and should be left at their default. Interestingly, they work perfectly fine in SDR.

 

[rotarydude]

Dang... so guess LG didn't fix the CMS artifacting in 2017... oh welllll....

 

[jrref]

Dang... so guess LG didn't fix the CMS artifacting in 2017... oh welllll....

It's got a couple of issues so as D-Nice says, it's close enough so best to just leave it at default and concentrate in getting the gray scale perfect.

 

[sillysally]

It's got a couple of issues so as D-Nice says, it's close enough so best to just leave it at default and concentrate in getting the gray scale perfect.

Just saw this thread.

With my very limited calibration time on my C7, because it still only has about 95 hours on it.
I would agree for now to leave the CMS controls at default.
But don't forget to run scans for sat, lum and color points, when adjusting your grayscale.
You can make what looks like a very good grayscale, but throw your Gamut way off.
That said, I ran a 21x3 profile/3DLUT using the Lumagen Pro 444x and Lightspace for a 709 calibration. The Garysale had a avg DE2000 of about 0.5 with a high error of about 2.25, the Gamut came out with very low errors, much improved over the LG OLED EF9500.

Also if you are using a meter like a D3, be mindful of image retention build up. That may throw your meter reading off.

ss

 

[superman1213]

Has the green push or tint of the ef9500 been fixed on the C7?

 

[sillysally]

Yes

 

[RichB]

Here are some measurements taken of the nit levels using the Sony HDR 10 10000 nit patterns (available from the menu via 7669).

Three modes were used with the default Contrast, OLED Light, and Color settings. All enhancements Off.

The following modes were measured using the HDR-10 patterns. The pattern with the 50 and 100 nit strips also has a gradient bar which raises the maximum nit value shown which may affect the Active HDR processing (Dynamic Contrast = Low).

These modes were measured:

• Standard (User) with Dynamic Contrast: Off
• Cinema Home (User) with Dynamic Contrast: Off
• Cinema (User) with Dynamic Contrast: Low (Active HDR)

The strips measurements are:

• 50 nits on 0 to 100 pattern
• 100 nits on 0 to 100 pattern
• 1000 nits (on 100 to 1000 pattern)
• 2000 nits (on 1000 to 2000 pattern)
• 10000 nits (on 2000 to 10000 nit pattern)

ABL clearly is affecting the 1000 nits and above patterns.

The 50 nit strip measurements:

• Standard DC: Off = 31 nits
• Cinema Home DC: Off = 17 nits
• Cinema Home DC: Low = 8 nits

The 100 nit strip measurements:

• Standard DC: Off = 82 nits
• Cinema Home DC: Off = 34 nits
• Cinema Home DC: Low = 17 nits

What is clear is the Cinema mode tone-mapping on HDR content mastered at 10000 nits dramatically affects the average picture level (100 nits and below).

In content, Cinema DC: Low can make this worse when there is high-not content on the screen. Therefore, Active HDR/Dynamic Contrast: Low brightens scenes (by observation) but when bright content is present darkens 100 nit and below.

There is no Cinema mode that preserves the brightness of 100 nit content and below.
Since only Cinema has white balance controls, there is no mode that tracks EOTF below 100 nits than can be calibrated in the user menu.

Sony's claims to better dynamic tone-mapping may be well founded. Hopefully, LG will add tone-mapping options to Cinema mode that do a better job tracking the EOTF.

- Rich