If at all possible you really should go with a fixed screen if this is a dedicated space as that will give you the best image result. If this is not a dedicated space or if you really want the screen to disappear then you should go with a tab tensioned screen as you will get wrinkles and waves from a basic drop down screen. Some can live with them but most on this forum can’t. With a screen that is going to be recessed in the ceiling you are making a bigger commitment so I would spend as much as I reasonably could to get the best performing screen available as you don’t want to have to replace it anytime soon.


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I forgot to add that at 13 ft from the screen you are going to want the biggest screen you can get. I would start with a 120 inch and go from there although the larger screens get pricy when looking for recessed and tab tensioned.


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Thank you for the advice. Unfortunately, I cannot do a fixed screen as their are large 7' tall windows against that wall. From your advice, it sounds like tab-tension is not negotiable for the in-ceiling screen. Do you have suggestions on size and drop length? If tension is a given, what is the next factor that contributes most to cost, viewing size or drop or something else? I'm flexible on some things, but I can't spend $5k on a screen! I still have to pay/survive construction.

 

Before selecting a screen size the image should be projected on a wall for a few weeks to get an idea of what is best suited. Finding out that the screen size is not appropriate after getting the wrong size and getting another one would be inconvenient and possibly costly.

There are recommendations for what the size should be based on the seating distance and projector model, but it's ultimately up to the user.


Budget options for tab tensioned would be from Elite Screens and Silverticket. Tension tabbed to avoid waves.

Looking at the thread with the projector recommendations the best model suggested would be the Epson 5050UB, or even a 4010HC. Money will be better spent on a better projector than a better screen. The Elite/Silverticket (or something similar) will do fine.



To get the most of the setup's contrast it's recommended that light reflections are eliminated. This can be done via paint, or fabrics.
Good read/examples of the effect of light reflections on contrast:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
https://projectiondream.com/en/contrast-projector-environment/

Dedicated thread for dealing with this issue:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/1465053-blacker-theater-better-image-219.html

 

Thanks for the recommendations. I'm actually leaning toward the forthcoming Epson 3800. I don't think testing on a wall will be necessary. The actual design details of the room are still being worked out, but rest assured it will not be all white! It will be dark.

In my research, I couldn't find any Elite or Silver Ticket that offered drop lengths which would suit my setup. But maybe I'm missing something?

 

Actually it looks like SI screens will give you a 24 inch drop https://www.projectorscreen.com/scr...en-innovations-3-series-motorized-133-65x116-16-9-solar-gray-85-3tmfl133sg.html


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Thanks for searching! A 24" drop means the bottom of the screen is still 49" high from the floor. That's too high for comfortable viewing. At the very minimum I need at least 36".

I am flexible on screen size.
And I'd like to preserve the clean lines of the room, so having the screen suspended by chain or wire isn't ideal.

Thank you all for your help, and please let me know if you think of other ideas for screens.

 

@jw131313, welcome to Catch-22. Standard screens that don't cost a lot have standard limited drop. Added drop means buying a custom-made screen. Lower-cost screen companies only produce standard screens with standard limited drop. Only premium, higher-cost suppliers make screens with custom drop to suit individual customers. You have laid out a set of parameters that requires added expense. Your choice is to stick with your specific parameters and pay the price or compromise somewhere to save money on a standard screen with standard drop.

Depending on the height of your windows behind the screen one possible compromise would be to have a standard wall-mounted screen with standard drop installed just above the tops of the windows and hide the screen with a valance. Not only would you save money on the screen but it's also a much easier installation to screw screen brackets into wall studs than to cut out a piece of ceiling to install a recessed ceiling-mounted screen.

 

Yeah. I'm coming around to that idea... It's not ideal but also I can't afford a $10k screen. I saw some UK screen Sapphire Smart Move online (not too pricy) that has a system which would lower the screen more, but it's not in-ceiling.

 

I just received some surprising and very attractive prices for a screen from XY in China. Like, very attractive. They provided estimates on two models: 1.0 white and an ALR Black crystal fabric. I don't know what fabric I'd need but figured I'd ask for options. Does anyone have any experience with this company and their products?

 

Interesting. I very much will like to know more because I too am in the market for one.

 

So, after much back and forth with the very helpful rep at XYScreen, I am close to making my order but still have some questions. Their prices are very reasonable, even with shipping, compared to others I checked with!

Here is where I ended up:
In-ceiling, motorized, front projection with tab-tension
Size: 16:9 120" diagonal
Drop: still debating 43" or 48"
Fabric: 4k White Flexible PVC (1.0 gain)

Some questions...
- Will I be okay with 1.0 gain? I tried to read through the forums and suggestions but got confused with so many technical details.

- Also, I noticed the screen is white on front and back. Is that going to be a problem?

- I am still considering the Epson Home Cinema 3800 for my 14-14.5' throw distance. My only doubt is that the projector is 3000 lumens. My current old Acer is also 3k lumens And I've wondered if it was bright enough. What do you experts think?

 

If the HC3800 will be similar to the HC3700 which it's an upgrade to, it will be plenty bright:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-3700-review.htm

The 1.0 gain is fine.

Not sure what Acer model you're referring to, but general manufacturer claims sometimes don't reflect reality.

It's not a problem if it's white on both sides of the screen, but it could be an issue if the screen does not have black backing AND the windows curtains are not closed. Black backing means there is an opaqe layer on the back that does not let light get through. If it's dark outside and there are no (powerful) street lights then it obviously doesn't matter if the curtains are drawn or not.

 

3000 lumens is a lot of lumens. Take some of your unexpected savings from your screen and invest in some good blackout shades for those windows and I think you will be fine with your plan.


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So, which model XY screen are you looking at? There is a lot on their website...

https://www.xyscreen.com/tab-tensioned-motorized-projection-screen-ec2-series

or something else?

They do have a number of materials, and I would look for one with a black backing for sure.

 

Because XY does everything custom, they've been great at letting me tell them what I want/need.
This is where we're at so far...

HCL1-WF1 Pro
120" White PVC In-Ceiling Mount Motorized Tab Tension Projection Screen
Ratio: 16:9
Fabric Material: Soft PVC+Special Coating
Fabric Color: front white and back white
Gain: 1.0
Applicable Projectors: long and short throw projetor
Viewing Angle: 160 degree
4K: Yes / 4K Flexible White PVC Fabric
3D:Active 3D

Their default is to do white backing, but they said it was no issue to do black.