[TheKnobb]

or do i have to put them on a thumb drive?

 

[wwtech]



Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKnobb /forum/post/21846666


or do i have to put them on a thumb drive?

I play them via thumb drive.

I have not used the HMG, as I don't run any DLNA servers.

 

[THe_Flash]



Quote:
Originally Posted by jleholeho /forum/post/0


99% people who buy 53-FD/LX55 also have an AVR with Marvell video processing already so the most expensive feature on the player becomes somewhat redundant...

My advice is to go for 52-FD/440 if someone have the Qdeo video scaling in AVR already...

Thats exactly why I ruled out the 53. As far as the 52, I just wanted a well built player (not cheap plastics) that gave me the ability to play some SACDs when the mood strikes me.

 

[TheKnobb]



Quote:
Originally Posted by wwtech /forum/post/0



I play them via thumb drive.

I have not used the HMG, as I don't run any DLNA servers.

ok, cool...can't wait to get home and give it a whirl!


Is there a limit to the size thumb drive you can use?

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

I use a 1TB USB external SATA HDD (FAT32 formatted) and works fine with the 53, plays almost everything including mkvs. Won't play .ogg unfortunately.

 

[TheKnobb]

If its formatted as FAT32, how do you get around file size issues? Or is it NTFS?

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

No it's FAT32. Don't have any super duper HD blu ray files so it's fine with the 4GB limit or whatever.

 

[TheKnobb]

Oh... Just as a side note , NTFS works fine for bigger files... Starting to really like this thing now!!

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

Just a random thought but to the posters complaining that the Elite brand isn't what it used to be and that the current units are overpriced: I wouldn't blame Pioneer entirely.


The whole market has changed since the '90s. I think people now demand the lowest price more than they used to and are less willing to pay extra for ultimate luxury and build quality/materials.


Think about it, Pioneer's top-of-the-line home video unit now costs US$500 in 2012 money, yet their hi-end LD players in the '90s started in the thousands of $.


Nothing like the HLD-X0 would get made now except by a boutique manufacturer producing hand made units in very low numbers.


Pioneer tried to keep luxury alive with the Kuro sets and although they had loyal fans they just weren't competitive against the extremely cheap prices of other sets the same size.


I wish more people still valued quality and products for life but they don't in general, they value the "bargain". Pioneer has to be profitable in that world.

 

[David Susilo]

I agree. I'd rather spend $2,000 on the Elite BD player when it was worth the money rather than $350 on a Elite-branded TCL BD player.


Still worth the money, IMHO, but the $2,000 BDP-09 have a far better value than the $350 BDP-LX55.

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

I wasn't even aware of the 09, looks like hi end decks still existed along with the Kuros too? I believe the 55FD is now Pioneers top of the line? A real sign of the times and an example of you get what you pay for. Not that I hate my 55, it's the best player I've ever owned and I'm enjoying it. On my salary I can only dream of $2000 players!

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

Well after a month of flawless operation last night my 53FD put out multiple very loud popping sounds but kept working. Switched everything off and smelled a burning smell from the unit.


Switched it back on and works just fine.


I opened it up tonight to investigate though and found that a blue thing has blown up with electronic blood spatter marks around it:

Now given that the unit still seems to work normally should I bother trying to fix it? It doesn't have a warranty as I bought from the US so would it be expensive to do? what are the chances a novice like me could order the part online and fix it themselves?


Also any ideas as to why it blew up? Thanks

 

[David Susilo]

it's a capacitor and very easy to do-it-yourself. Just get the exact same value (from what it says, it's 250 volt, 22 micro Farad). De-solder it and re-solder the same one.


You can just go to your nearest Dick Smith (do they still exist?) or Radio Shack to get the part, a solder starter kit, a total of maybe AU$15 (I haven't been to AU for quite a while though).

 

[wwtech]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo Joe Cola /forum/post/21911778


Well after a month of flawless operation last night my 53FD put out multiple very loud popping sounds but kept working. Switched everything off and smelled a burning smell from the unit.


Switched it back on and works just fine.


I opened it up tonight to investigate though and found that a blue thing has blown up with electronic blood spatter marks around it:

Now given that the unit still seems to work normally should I bother trying to fix it? It doesn't have a warranty as I bought from the US so would it be expensive to do? what are the chances a novice like me could order the part online and fix it themselves?


Also any ideas as to why it blew up? Thanks

I would not use it until you repair it. Low voltages or high ripple may damage other components. Leave it unplugged.


It is a good thing you heard it blow up! Mine could do it while I am not home (since it is always plugged in) and I would not know it. How long have you had it? Just a month?


I would replace all 3 capacitors. I hope it is just a single bad cap, but it is safer to replace them all if it is a bad batch.


Also note they are 105°C capacitors and probably be low ESR since they are in a switching power supply. Mouser or Digi-Key can get them to you quickly.

 

[ss9001]

those pics look like the same thing that plagued some Korean motherboards a number of years ago....cheaply made, barely in spec capacitors that bubbled up & burst. First, data issues, bsod, then no POST. maybe this can help explain some of the inconsistent behavior quirks some of you owners experience.


the poor saga of these Pio players continues

the lesson for Pioneer is....you get what you pay for

stop subbing out to a company making a cheaply made product - only sullies your own reputation.

 

[ss9001]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo Joe Cola /forum/post/21911778


Well after a month of flawless operation last night my 53FD put out multiple very loud popping sounds but kept working.

sorry this happened to your player. you certainly didn't abuse it.

hopefully, you have good solder skills & be back in business soon

and do get them replaced. Bad caps can cause damage to other components downstream.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

Thanks so much for the replies guys.


An Australian friend recommended I should run the unit off a step down transformer after I repair it as Australian power can sometimes surge over 250v.


Apparantly a component built for Europe/Australia would probably have 400v capacitors to cover surges so don't go blaming Pioneer yet, it's partly my fault for buying a US market player, even though it is switching

 

[Yo Joe Cola]

New plan is to replace all 3 capacitors with 400v rated ones:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-pcs-El...-/290562040826


This should eliminate the problem in future?


Maybe I should be looking at a power conditioner to eliminate spikes and surges as I get more equipment?

 

[wwtech]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo Joe Cola /forum/post/21914443


An Australian friend recommended I should run the unit off a step down transformer after I repair it as Australian power can sometimes surge over 250v.


Apparantly a component built for Europe/Australia would probably have 400v capacitors to cover surges so don't go blaming Pioneer yet, it's partly my fault for buying a US market player, even though it is switching

Does you unit say it takes up to 240 volts? A lot of US units are only rated for 120 volts max. You might be better off using a step down transformer after you replace the caps. Just because it is a switching power supply does not mean it will take any input voltage.

 

[Yo Joe Cola]



Quote:
Originally Posted by wwtech /forum/post/21916320


Does you unit say it takes up to 240 volts? A lot of US units are only rated for 120 volts max. You might be better off using a step down transformer after you replace the caps. Just because it is a switching power supply does not mean it will take any input voltage.

Yeah it actually states input voltage as 120-240v in the specs in the manual. Going to upgrade to 400v rated capacitors though, as that's apparantly what an appliance built for the Australian/Euro market would have to guard against power surges/spikes.


I was thinking of using a transformer anyway but the rating of the caps seems to be my problem as they were running at near capacity at all times before, so even if there wasn't a surge one of them might have just died early.