I can't see any reason why you couldn't? If at all possible, I'd suggest that, as well as screwing, that you glue the board to the other surface, for extra long-term strength. Just ensure that you keep it away from any heat sources, as it may bend if it gets too warm. If the 3M tape doesn't work, you could attach the rubber bumpers with screws from underneath. I'm sure others will be able to give you some advice as well. Good luck.

 

I appreciate the tips and insight!

 

I know the my surrounds have bolt inserts in the base of the speaker, so you may be able to do that as well.

 

... I was wondering if it's safe to use a precut 0.5" thick HDPE cutting board to significantly widen the top mounting plate for a center channel to sit onto safely. ...

Yup!

 

I just received the center yesterday and low and behold there are threaded inserts on the bottom, three to be exact! I splurged on an expensive stand which comes in on Thursday so hopefully the holes line up! If not, at least I can use a black cutting board and drill the appropriate holes.

 

What speakers did you get?

 

I just bought a Focal CC1008BE along with a Focal stand =) Sample photos

 

Looks amazing, and I bet it sounds great too. I would NOT have skimped on the stand; and with the bolts, the cutting board is completely unnecessary.
My centre is sitting on a pair of generic steel bookshelf stands, and it's fairly stable. It will be moving to the console table once I get my electronics moved.

 

I haven't hooked it up yet since the Focal stand arrives Thursday. I like the way you think and initially I was going to go with a $60 Monoprice/Monolith stand but I just couldn't stomach the aesthetics and Made in China level quality.

I splurged on the matching Focal stand which weighs approx. 40 lbs. and costs over a thousand bucks. Yeah it's expensive for what it is but I like quality, continuity, and matching products when available. For that price point of course it better be made in France.

Is your tweeter going to be level with your floorstanders or are you going to angle them up towards MLP?

 

Actually, my tweeters are pretty much even between the towers and centre. The console is the same height as the stands - I just don't have the horizontal space right now.
The Paradigm centre stand was over $600CAD, and it is shorter and angled. Right now, the tweeters are at perfect ear-height.

 

The Focal stand came in yesterday but unfortunately the triangulated steel top plate holes don't line up with the three on the center speaker.

For the engineers out there, which fastening method should be stronger/more secure in 1/2" HPDE plastic:
1) countersunk with a countersunk screw (best appearance since it's flush with surface)

2) regular hole with a panhead screw plus a washer:

 

Not an engineer but we used HDPE as sliders for “sticky” areas of our frames when off-roading (excellent use for HDPE ). Really did a good job reducing hang ups just due to friction between a rock and piece of metal. We always used a washer with a pan head bolt.

That being said, your center isn’t a 5,000 lb SUV so I suspect either will be plenty. If you go the counter sunk route, just don’t over tighten.

 

Note that TAP Plastics will cut HDPE (available in black or white) to any size you wish with various thicknesses available.

If you have a store nearby just take a speaker and stand in there and they can precisely cut to fit and drill counter sunk holes for you.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I already purchased the HDPE sheet in a good size and thickness so I just need to make a template and drill holes to form a triangle. I just came across this after some Googling as well... but then again this was from a molded plastics website. Seems like a lot of people countersink with nary a problem. Either I'm overthinking this or paranoid I'll end up having a dropped 41 lb. center channel on the ground 😅

 

Almost nothing will stick to that material.
You can try Blu Tack to help keep things from sliding off of it.
I would countersink any screws, makes a much nicer appearance.

 

Yeah, seems like the only way to bond HDPE is plastic welding. But then again, I'm using mechanical fasteners to secure the speaker to the HDPE board and then to the stand. I bought some nice countersinks off of Amazon so I'll post my results up this weekend when I get 'er done!

 

Updating this thread with some photos. Got me a nice set of KEO single flute (USA Made) 90 degree countersink bit set. Worked like a hot knife through butter with a Li-ion hand drill. A drill press would have made for straighter holes and countersinks but this isn't a critical job at hand =) The 1/2" HDPP cutting board worked out perfectly with a nice blend of strength to weight. The board I bought off Amazon also had rounded and finished edges for a professional appearance.

I don't trust Blu-Tack, especially with toddlers running around. Secure screw mounting with factory placed threaded inserts in the body is the only way to go, off top.

 

FTR, blu-tack works just fine. So well, in fact, that when I went to take some speakers off of the stands I had, the blu-tack ripped the vinyl off of the top of the stand's top plate.

 

Blu-tack appears to be a durable and somewhat easily removable method to secure the speaker down but I wouldn't want to chance damaging the lacquer finish of my center speaker. On the flip side, if your speaker already has threaded holes it's a no brainer imo to fasten them down properly.