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How to frame studs/be prepared for in wall speaker installation?

5.8K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  clipghost  
#1 ·
Hello everyone. I am currently in construction and down to the studs. I will be doing these Monoprice in wall speakers - Monolith by Monoprice THX-365IW THX Ultra Certified 3-Way In-Wall Speaker - Monoprice.com

These in wall speakers do not have back boxes so I will not be doing back boxes.

As far as building out the wall for my in wall speakers, anything special I should be doing with the lumber/wood placement other than fitting the width correctly? Probably just going to do standard 16" separation between studs.

- Should I be putting a block of wood above/below each stud cavity where there will be a speaker in order to keep the sound within its area? Basically creating a rectangle? I have seen some people frame out their speakers before. Is there some special method to follow?

- What about insulation? Should I not put any insulation where there will be a speaker? Or do I?

- Is there some sound proof material I should put in the walls before a speaker goes in? Front wall faces the exterior of the house, rear wall faces an office bedroom.

Thank you! Just want to plan ahead. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
 
#2 ·
You can modify the position of your studs so that the available open gaps line up with your required speaker placement. The alternative is to frame in openings like you frame for a window. This however requires a detailed plan. Yes you should insulate the walls and the cavity where the speakers will go with a loose batt insulation. When you cut the drywall you can remove a few handfuls so the speaker doesn't compress the insulation. If you are doing spray foam or blown in insulation you should block off the areas for the speakers.
 
#4 ·
Framing the speakers in as if it were a window is definitely the way it seems will be naturally going. So it would basically be a rectangle form big enough to house the speaker.

Link to what loose batt insulation you recommend? If spray foam so you just don't spray the cavity and then would you still put loose batt insulation?

I'll defer to Jeff but when it comes to in-walls seems the sky is the limit on options. I've seen free air on the back installs (open to another room) one one extreme to the other which is my type of install which is more or less a sealed box (nearly making a traditional speaker out of it).

At the very least, yea make sure your studs on all walls line up to there you speaker want to be. There is not a ton of margin of error on these as they are pretty wide and need ~ 1" of lip to bite onto. Center the stub bay where the speaker should be and you will be good.
Ya there are so many different options so hard to pinpoint. I cannot do a back box so framing it like a window seems my best option.
 
#3 ·
I'll defer to Jeff but when it comes to in-walls seems the sky is the limit on options. I've seen free air on the back installs (open to another room) one one extreme to the other which is my type of install which is more or less a sealed box (nearly making a traditional speaker out of it).

At the very least, yea make sure your studs on all walls line up to there you speaker want to be. There is not a ton of margin of error on these as they are pretty wide and need ~ 1" of lip to bite onto. Center the stub bay where the speaker should be and you will be good.
 
#9 ·
You got to remember that in wall speakers are also installed after the drywall is up in some situations so it almost is anything goes in that respect (as long as it fits).

To get the most out of them however, you want to ensure that they are properly placed (cause you can't move them once they are in there), tweeter at ear height, evenly centered at their proper positions, consider toeing in your mains by framing appropriately, etc.

In wall speakers should also come with a recommended "box size", i.e. if you make the space too small by framing it off top and bottom too close then you will negatively affect the bass response of your speakers. If you are going with identical speakers all around try to aim to have the "box size" equal between the speakers.
So as far as height placement, I agree. Is that based on seated ear height or standing?

But see, now I have two different people saying "don't frame them in the cavity" and "do frame them in the cavity like a window." So what is better for the speaker? I know there is a top wall so of course the transmission won't leave the stud cavity 16" across. But what about condensing the height travel. if the speaker is 22.9" height...Should I or should I not put a block of wood enclosing it somewhere 23" - 25" above and below?
 
#6 ·
You got to remember that in wall speakers are also installed after the drywall is up in some situations so it almost is anything goes in that respect (as long as it fits).

To get the most out of them however, you want to ensure that they are properly placed (cause you can't move them once they are in there), tweeter at ear height, evenly centered at their proper positions, consider toeing in your mains by framing appropriately, etc.

In wall speakers should also come with a recommended "box size", i.e. if you make the space too small by framing it off top and bottom too close then you will negatively affect the bass response of your speakers. If you are going with identical speakers all around try to aim to have the "box size" equal between the speakers.
 
#7 ·
In wall speakers should also come with a recommended "box size", i.e. if you make the space too small by framing it off top and bottom too close then you will negatively affect the bass response of your speakers.
The conundrum is that the box size recommendations assume you are using the speakers as full range. The recommended crossover settings for Dolby Atmos playback are a higher frequency. The negative inpact of too small of a box may be irrelevant.

The frequency range of the planned Monoprice inwalls goes down to 35hz while the crossover setting may be 80hz or more.