So you ran speaker wire directly from the amp to the sub, then from the sub to the tweeters? If so, I'm surprised the tweeters still work. You need to split the signal into highs and lows. Now that you're this far and probably on a limited budget, you could try one of the generic crossovers from parts express.

I'm not sure what crossover point would be good for that setup, but since the specs list 3,500hz as the high point for the sub, and the low point for the tweeter, might as well give that a shot. You're basically guessing at this point anyhow.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo2w-35k-2-way-speaker-crossover-3500-hz--260-146

 

So you ran speaker wire directly from the amp to the sub, then from the sub to the tweeters? If so, I'm surprised the tweeters still work. You need to split the signal into highs and lows. Now that you're this far and probably on a limited budget, you could try one of the generic crossovers from parts express.

I'm not sure what crossover point would be good for that setup, but since the specs list 3,500hz as the high point for the sub, and the low point for the tweeter, might as well give that a shot. You're basically guessing at this point anyhow.

Thanks for the reply,

I am surprised i didn't blow the tweeter too, but that thing you send is a bit way to high priced for me though. If i wanted to get that i need to get 2 of them (Left and right channel) and that would cost me around 60 euro's and that is really out of budget. Do you have any other idea's or recommendations?

 

Oh, i just saw my sub can go to 7000Hz.. so i think a crossover between 3500 and 7000Hz will do the work?

 

If you throw enough random parts at it, it will eventually make noise or smoke.
7khz subwoofer? Sounds like you're right on track

 

It isn't a SUBwooffer but it moves a lot at 30Hz xD

here is the wooffers i use
Dayton Audio DS135-8 5" Designer Series Woofer Speaker

 

If nothing else you could just put a capacitor on the positive wire running to the tweeter. That will block out the bass. I'm not sure what uF would be best, without any real impedance measurements it's a crap shoot.

If you know the Re of your tweeter you can use an online calculator to find out what value cap might work. Not the nominal ohms, you need the Re which will be lower.

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/High-pass-filter-calculator.php#answer1

 

It seems to me as if you are trying to build a speaker without actual knowledge how speaker or crossover network works. Unfortunately that is a good way to damage your gear, or in worst case scenario produce a speaker that is performing very poorly.
Short story: you need a proper active or passive crossover in your speakers. In a properly designed enclosure.
Post links to exact drivers you are using so we can get you on right track.