HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software - Page 139 - AVS Forum
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post #4141 of 4170 Old 08-14-2014, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
This, I don't understand. What is the point of keeping track of expected luminance targets based on differential encoding of patterns if the end result is not to obtain similar calibrations using any of the supported test pattern sources? Let's say we know that 40% gray on AVS709 actually translates to 39% (for simplicity sake) in PC Levels due to the way it is encoded. If HCFR supports AVS709 and is aware of the way it is encoded (which it does), then shouldn't it internally determine the luminance target assuming this is a 39% gray pattern, not a 40% Gray pattern? That way, you have a much better chance of tracking correctly when switching between AVS709 and the HCFR or madTPG pattern sources. My guess is that perhaps it does this correctly for video levels and that using AVS709 v/s HCFR pattern for video levels would result in the same curve, but I have no way of testing it myself.
The AVS-HD (et. al.) disks were encoded with the assumption that "video" levels are being used. Period. One should *not* being using "PC" levels to display sources encoded with "video" levels. Period.

If you want to calibrate to "PC" levels you need to use a source pattern that was encoded at PC levels ... It should be simple to construct these targets yourself with any PC "paint" or photoshop-type program.

PS: In my earlier post, when I said "luminance level(s)," I really meant "video/stimulus" level.
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post #4142 of 4170 Old 08-14-2014, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post
One should *not* being using "PC" levels to display sources encoded with "video" levels. Period.
I totally disagree. Outputting "video" content in "PC" levels is just fine, as long as the source device (respectively test pattern generator) uses proper dithering - which it should use, anyway.
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post #4143 of 4170 Old 08-14-2014, 11:41 AM
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Hello to all.
As it is impossible to read all 139 pages...is it possible for someone to point me to the right direction please? I need to find instructions for how to use Spyder 4 in Mac OS 10.9.4 with HCFR. Some searching in the wiki didn't help as I have found instructions only for windows...and I am a newbie in Mac environment as well

thank you in advance
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post #4144 of 4170 Old 08-14-2014, 01:02 PM
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I have just bought an i1Display Pro to use with HCFR to calibrate my Pioneer Kuro 5020 with an 111FD board in it. I also purchased ControlCal to unlock and calibrate the ISF modes. I have gotten my grey-scale almost perfect but I am a little unsure of how to calibrate the Primary and Secondary Colors on my display. My Kuro does have the Color Management System. If someone could help me understand how to do this, that would be great! My deltaE values are already pretty low for these colors but I really would like to get them under 1.0.
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post #4145 of 4170 Old 08-14-2014, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by madshi View Post
I totally disagree. Outputting "video" content in "PC" levels is just fine, as long as the source device (respectively test pattern generator) uses proper dithering - which it should use, anyway.
But why make life harder for yourself? Especially when doing the calibration.

BTW, AFAIK, HCFR can generate the proper test patterns for you ... in theory ... I've never bothered to verify that the pattern generator is operating bug-free.

You're not gaining anything by scaling Video to PC. OTOH, you will lose any superwhite detail that might have been in the source. Just because you "can" do something doesn't mean that you should do it.
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post #4146 of 4170 Old 08-14-2014, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post
You're not gaining anything by scaling Video to PC. OTOH, you will lose any superwhite detail that might have been in the source. Just because you "can" do something doesn't mean that you should do it.
I think you are overlooking a sizeable percentage of folks such as myself who use HTPCs to view all video content at home. GPUs operate at PC levels and forcing them to operate at video levels leads to inaccuracies. The reason being that even if your renderer sends video level input to the GPU, it will internally convert to PC levels, process the data and then output back to video levels...resulting in a compounding of inaccuracies. Renderers like madVR can provide far better image scaling/PQ for lower resolution content than your typical hardware players. Moreover, it also supports 3D LUT processing to get pretty much perfect color accuracy within the limitations of your meter.

I could use ArgyllCMS + dispcalGUI to profile my display and get near perfect results using 3D LUT, but then my display would only be calibrated for video content rendered via madVR. I would prefer to use HCFR to get as close to reference levels using hardware tweaks so that I can enjoy this calibrated display for all content viewed via my HTPC. The 3D LUT is more of a 2nd order correction that I would prefer to use just in MPC-HC when using madVR.

All of these reasons are why some of us would prefer to calibrate to PC levels. It isn't just a science experiment for the sake of it . Since HCFR seems to support PC levels, I figured that it would make sense to compare results. At the moment, I'm not sure if there is some slight bug in the implementation/interpretation of data when measuring at PC levels. As madshi pointed out, there is some discrepancy that doesn't quite seem to make sense. Would love to get zoyd's thoughts on this.

Edit - PS, we don't have to lose superwhite detail when using PC levels at least with madVR. We can set custom level ranges that let us choose with great granularity what black/white levels we would wish to clip at. We could easily set things up so that a few levels of BTB and WTW were visible in video content.

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post #4147 of 4170 Old 08-15-2014, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post
But why make life harder for yourself? Especially when doing the calibration.

You're not gaining anything by scaling Video to PC.
Then how do you suggest should an HTPC user who wants to use the PC for video playback, photo display, games etc, setup his playback chain? Do you recommend to set the GPU to 16-235 output? If you really recommend that, then you seemingly don't know much about HTPCs work inside. Windows internally thinks/works in PC levels. If you set the GPU to 16-235 output, the GPU will stretch all the rendered desktop/video/game pixels from PC levels to TV levels behind the back of the applications and behind the back of Windows itself, and usually the GPU does this in 8bit without using dithering. Which means you'll get banding artifacts.

There's nothing wrong with using PC output levels, as long as your display properly supports that. Ok, so maybe HCFR needs to be tweaked a bit to fix the issues we discovered, but I'm sure this will be fixed soon enough.

Btw, you're saying "by scaling Video to PC". But in reality it's rather the other way round: Since the PC natively works in PC levels, if you set the GPU to TV output, video will first be rendered to PC levels, and then stretched afterwards to TV levels. So this way you have more stretching and more conversions going on than when using PC output levels. The thing is: Video is encoded in YCbCr. This needs to be converted to RGB first, anyway, and this YCbCr -> RGB conversion consists of a matrix multiplication. You can in one step convert YCbCr to either TV RGB or PC RGB. It's the same operation, just with a different matrix multiplication. So basically you can render video in either TV RGB or PC RGB without stretching or scaling anything at all. Rendering a YCbCr video in PC RGB does not require any additional scaling or stretching operations. However, if you set the GPU to TV levels output, you introduce an additional stretching operation (and that often in low bitdepth without dithering).
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post #4148 of 4170 Old 08-15-2014, 11:55 PM
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zoyd,

Any chance to add a "Keep previous 0% reading" option to skip the first step once its already measured?
Just to make the next Gray Scale readings quicker.

Or is there an option to that already?
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post #4149 of 4170 Old 08-17-2014, 01:06 AM
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Hello there,

First of all, thanks for keeping maintained this great software. I'm just trying to calibrate my LCD monitor and plasma tv time to time on 'hobby' level, so a shareware software is really not for me

I have an i1Display2 since ~4 years. I know that this device is far from being perfect in terms of precision and stability over time. Yet, I'd like to know if it is still possible in a way to use it? So, I have some questions:

- I've read here, and other sites as well that it is somehow possible to calibrate colorimeters to a better reference. I have an access to an i1DisplayPro. Is it possible to make the i1D2 back on track for a while with this device?

- So far what I've understood, I'll need to create a correction matrix, and provide this to HCFR when calibrating next time with i1D2..? Is there a description available somewhere how to do this procedure?

- I have a Panasonic VT60(VT65) plasma TV, which is famous for its high precision, and high configurability.
Do you think it makes sense to try to do the job with the i1D2?

- If I am not mistaken, this colorimeter referencing should be done on a certain display. I am not sure if I can borrow the DisplayPro from the guy who has it. So I might need to go to his place, and compare the two devices on an LCD screen. Can this work, or the result would not give me an i1D2 that could be used on my plasma screen?

I think you know get the point what I'd like to achieve. If you could give me advice how to go on, that would be really great!

Thanks!
Gabor
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post #4150 of 4170 Old 08-17-2014, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeeg View Post
Hello there,
- So far what I've understood, I'll need to create a correction matrix, and provide this to HCFR when calibrating next time with i1D2..? Is there a description available somewhere how to do this procedure?
This is an excellent guide I've found regarding this:
http://avforum.no/forum/attachments/...tion_files.pdf
@zoyd - Perhaps it might be good to include a link to this guide in the OP?
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post #4151 of 4170 Old 08-17-2014, 10:16 AM
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any link with a guide to use Spyder 4 in mac OS with HCFR?
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post #4152 of 4170 Old 08-17-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madshi View Post
Then how do you suggest should an HTPC user who wants to use the PC for video playback, photo display, games etc, setup his playback chain? Do you recommend to set the GPU to 16-235 output?
No ... In this case, what I'm saying, is that for *calibration* you should not be trying to convert "Video" targets (AVS-HD, et al.) to "PC" targets ... Start with PC targets and skip the conversion/scaling.

If you were to run HCFR on the *same* HTPC as you use for video playback, then you can just use the "internal" HCFR pattern generator. Much easier and faster ... Assuming you set HCFR to expect 0-255 (PC Levels.)

Still, this leaves you with a fundamental problem for playback: So do you scale 16-235 up to 0-255? ... 16-255 to 0-255? ... or preserve the entire BtB to WtW range (no scaling) and adjust "black-level" (and gamma/EOTF) as necessary? .... Exactly ... This is the problem with mixing and matching Video level sources with PC level displays.
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post #4153 of 4170 Old 08-17-2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
This is an excellent guide I've found regarding this:
http://avforum.no/forum/attachments/...tion_files.pdf
@zoyd - Perhaps it might be good to include a link to this guide in the OP?
I've been posting this method periodically over the past few years:

For HCFR, profiling a colorimeter to the i1 Pro spectrometer is a simple matter. I'll use the i1 Display 3 as an example. The object is to create a correction color matrix which is to be used with the LT D3. It's explained, not too clearly, in the HCFR Help Menu/Advanced/XYZ Adjustment/Compute section.


1. Set up a calibration DVD to display the primary (red, green, blue) colors and white windows sequentially.
Use a 10% window at 100% amplitude.

2. Put both the D3 and the Pro on the TV panel so the meter sensor holes are vertically in the center of the window and right next to one another. (Or you can do each meter sequentially so that both are reading the same area.)

3. Set up HCFR for the i1 Pro meter and do a normal sensor black level calibration (Measures/Sensor/Calibrate...)

4. Run the primary colors and the white windows reading the data with HCFR set up for the i1 Pro meter. Save the run as something like "pro meter calibration.chc"

5. Set up HCFR for the D3 meter and do a normal sensor black level calibration (Measures/Sensor/Calibrate...)

6. Run the primary colors and the white windows reading the data with HCFR set up for the D3 meter. Save the run as something like "D3 meter calibration.chc"

7. Display the i1 Pro results on your computer and check the "Reference measure" box in the upper right hand corner.

8. Display the D3 results and click Advanced/Meter correction file/Create using existing reference measures.

9. Display the D3 results and click Advanced/Meter correction file/Save meter correction file... Save it with a name like "D3 calibration matrix 08-17-2014"



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Last edited by LarryInRI; 08-17-2014 at 08:03 PM. Reason: copy/paste correction
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post #4154 of 4170 Old 08-17-2014, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
I've been posting this method periodically over the past few years:

For HCFR, profiling a colorimeter to the i1 Pro spectrometer is a simple matter. I'll use the i1 Display 3 as an example. The object is to create a correction color matrix which is to be used with the LT. It's explained, not too clearly, in the HCFR Help Menu/Advanced/XYZ Adjustment/Compute section.


1. Set up a calibration DVD to display the primary (red, green, blue) colors and white windows sequentially.
Use a 10% window at 100% amplitude.

2. Put both the D3 and the Pro on the TV panel so the meter sensor holes are vertically in the center of the window and right next to one another. (Or you can do each meter sequentially so that both are reading the same area.)

3. Set up HCFR for the i1 Pro meter and do a normal sensor black level calibration (Measures/Sensor/Calibrate...)

4. Run the primary colors and the white windows reading the data with HCFR set up for the i1 Pro meter. Save the run as something like "pro meter calibration.chc"

5. Set up HCFR for the D3 meter and do a normal sensor black level calibration (Measures/Sensor/Calibrate...)

6. Run the primary colors and the white windows reading the data with HCFR set up for the D3 meter. Save the run as something like "D3 meter calibration.chc"

7. Display the i1 Pro results on your computer and check the "Reference measure" box in the upper right hand corner.

8. Display the D3 results and click Advanced/Meter correction file/Create using existing reference measures.

9. Display the D3 results and click Advanced/Meter correction file/Save meter correction file... Save it with a name like "D3 calibration matrix 08-17-2014"



Larry
yes you have.
you helped me 3 years ago with this.
thumbs up

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post #4155 of 4170 Old 08-18-2014, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
I've been posting this method periodically over the past few years:
...
Larry
Thanks Larry for the description!
I tried to search the forum extensively, but somehow I was not successful

Some questions regarding this:
- can I perform this procedure on a different display and not on the one that I have? Eg. create this calibration matrix on an LCD screen, and then re-use it on my plasma screen? (I suppose not, but I I am not sure why)
- in my original post I mentioned i1DisplayPro. I think this is a colorimeter and not a real spectrometer. Does this mean my intention of profiling my i1d2 is meaningless, or does it make sense?

(sorry, as this is not strictly related to HCFR anymore)

Thanks!
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post #4156 of 4170 Old 08-18-2014, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeeg View Post
- in my original post I mentioned i1DisplayPro. I think this is a colorimeter and not a real spectrometer. Does this mean my intention of profiling my i1d2 is meaningless, or does it make sense?
It's not meaningless, but you should recognize that you will be limited by the inherent accuracy of the i1 Display Pro. Your i1D2 should provide very similar readings to your i1 Display pro after profiling and applying the correction matrix. I've used a similar approach to profile my ancient Spyder 2 that had a major Red filter discrepancy (typical with aging) to my Colormunki Display. After profiling, the Spyder2 matches really well for >40% gray scale and has a slight issue with red at lower light levels (more likely due to the age of the Spyder 2 tech).

A spectrometer will give you more absolute certainty in the accuracy of your profiled meter.
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post #4157 of 4170 Old 08-18-2014, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madshi View Post
There's nothing wrong with using PC output levels, as long as your display properly supports that. Ok, so maybe HCFR needs to be tweaked a bit to fix the issues we discovered, but I'm sure this will be fixed soon enough.
I'll take a look at it and adjust the targets for 0-255 use if needed. (Dithering is not needed for calibration purposes).

Quote:
Originally Posted by James Freeman View Post
zoyd,

Any chance to add a "Keep previous 0% reading" option to skip the first step once its already measured?
Just to make the next Gray Scale readings quicker.

Or is there an option to that already?
No, that's too much special code for the sake of a few seconds worth of measurements. I have been considering "partial" grayscale measurement repeats however and that would accomplish the same thing. Basically you would click on a level and the scan would include from there on up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeeg View Post
Hello there,

First of all, thanks for keeping maintained this great software. I'm just trying to calibrate my LCD monitor and plasma tv time to time on 'hobby' level, so a shareware software is really not for me

I have an i1Display2 since ~4 years. I know that this device is far from being perfect in terms of precision and stability over time. Yet, I'd like to know if it is still possible in a way to use it? So, I have some questions:

- I've read here, and other sites as well that it is somehow possible to calibrate colorimeters to a better reference. I have an access to an i1DisplayPro. Is it possible to make the i1D2 back on track for a while with this device?

- So far what I've understood, I'll need to create a correction matrix, and provide this to HCFR when calibrating next time with i1D2..? Is there a description available somewhere how to do this procedure?

- I have a Panasonic VT60(VT65) plasma TV, which is famous for its high precision, and high configurability.
Do you think it makes sense to try to do the job with the i1D2?

- If I am not mistaken, this colorimeter referencing should be done on a certain display. I am not sure if I can borrow the DisplayPro from the guy who has it. So I might need to go to his place, and compare the two devices on an LCD screen. Can this work, or the result would not give me an i1D2 that could be used on my plasma screen?

I think you know get the point what I'd like to achieve. If you could give me advice how to go on, that would be really great!

Thanks!
Gabor
yes, I think it would be helpful to profile the D2 to an i1 display pro. If you want to do this you should choose the proper display type for the display pro (lcd or plasma) prior to profiling and your plasma correction will need to done on a plasma display.

Quote:
Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
This is an excellent guide I've found regarding this:
@zoyd - Perhaps it might be good to include a link to this guide in the OP?
Thanks but that doc might be confusing since it's specifically for the DIY probe, I'll add a link to Larry's post.
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post #4158 of 4170 Old 08-18-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
I'll take a look at it and adjust the targets for 0-255 use if needed. (Dithering is not needed for calibration purposes).
Thanks zoyd! I really appreciate it. It'd be great if you could post an update on this whenever you get the chance to look at it. It would be nice to know whether you had to make any changes or chose to leave things as is. Cheers.
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post #4159 of 4170 Old Today, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeeg View Post
I have an i1Display2 since ~4 years. I know that this device is far from being perfect in terms of precision and stability over time. Yet, I'd like to know if it is still possible in a way to use it?
I too use a 4 yr old i1d2 + HCFR for my calibrations. I've spent many hours attempting to properly calibrate my samsung F5300 plasma. I've been running into major issues with temperature based reading fluctuations. The i1d2 has no temperature compensation while the i1d3 (i1 Display Pro) does. This is the first time I've run into this issue as it's my first plasma (heat!) that I've spent any significant time calibrating.

I'm not sure if the i1d2 is more accurate with the plasma when heated up vs cold but you may want to take this into consideration when creating a correction profile.

I personally have given up on my i1d2 because of its inability to measure black levels, potentially degraded sensor, and lack of temperature compensation. An i1d3 is in my sights as a replacement.
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post #4160 of 4170 Old Today, 09:05 AM
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Thinking of upgrading meters. I have an old Spyder 2 that I'm using to run calibration with HCFR... obviously it's old and not the most desirable meter to use. For the "home calibration hobbyist" what is generally recommended as the best consumer-grade meter to use with HCFR on a limited budget? Thanks!
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post #4161 of 4170 Old Today, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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$189 @ Amazon right now

http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-...=i1display+pro

After my recent TV purchase my wife has forbidden my desired meter upgrade for the time being otherwise I'd be jumping all over it. The price has regularly been around $230 for a while, with a very rare sale @ BH photovideo for $130 I believe it was.
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post #4163 of 4170 Old Today, 10:45 AM
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X-rite i1 display pro.
Thanks for the reply. I will check it out!
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post #4164 of 4170 Old Today, 03:54 PM
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Hmmm. I think I've reached the limit of what HCFR can do with my ColorMunki Display. I've just gotten a new TV (Sony 55X9005B which replaced the 55X9005A) and I'm getting far too much visible saturation with reds. Even though HCFR is telling me my dE's are averaging 0.49 I can literally see the red tint, especially at the darkest and brightest ends of the scale, and even if I reset the white balance I can still see the reds - but the 'live' readings in HCFR are telling me that the image has far too much blue and that I need to add more red!

I've recently installed the latest version of HCFR so I thought that might be the culprit, but then I remembered that I did a calibration with the latest install on my old set and it was fine. I rely on HCFR's own 'LCD white LED' correction which was fine with my previous set but perhaps this latest TV has something funky going on with the backlight which means that it needs a different correction matrix?

But I don't just wanna blow £300-£400 on a i1Display Pro and Calman or Spectracal yet, just in case I'm doing something wrong. Maybe I should try one with the simple 'non-refresh display' correction. Any other ideas, chaps?
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The i1d2 has no temperature compensation while the i1d3 (i1 Display Pro) does.
The i1d2 and i1d3 use rather similar TAOS/AMS L2F sensors, and all these sensors have similar temperature specs (200 ppm/°C), and similar dark current vs. temperature graphs.

The main difference between the two is that the i1d3 has much better shaped filters, a lens to concentrate the light by a factor of 5, and is using a slightly more sensitive version of the sensor.

What this means in practice is that typically the i1d2 quantizes very low reading badly, while the extra sensitivity of the i1d3 provides better precision at these levels.

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Originally Posted by Geoff D View Post
Hmmm. I think I've reached the limit of what HCFR can do with my ColorMunki Display. I've just gotten a new TV (Sony 55X9005B which replaced the 55X9005A) and I'm getting far too much visible saturation with reds. Even though HCFR is telling me my dE's are averaging 0.49 I can literally see the red tint, especially at the darkest and brightest ends of the scale, and even if I reset the white balance I can still see the reds - but the 'live' readings in HCFR are telling me that the image has far too much blue and that I need to add more red!

I've recently installed the latest version of HCFR so I thought that might be the culprit, but then I remembered that I did a calibration with the latest install on my old set and it was fine. I rely on HCFR's own 'LCD white LED' correction which was fine with my previous set but perhaps this latest TV has something funky going on with the backlight which means that it needs a different correction matrix?

But I don't just wanna blow £300-£400 on a i1Display Pro and Calman or Spectracal yet, just in case I'm doing something wrong. Maybe I should try one with the simple 'non-refresh display' correction. Any other ideas, chaps?
Are you using the X-Rite supplied correction files for LED displays in HCFR? You should first install the Colormunki Display drivers/software. HCFR via ArgyllCMS should automatically pick up the X-Rite supplied correction files and offer them as options in the dropdown menu when setting up a new calibration run.

If this still doesn't fix the issue, I'd say that you have a defective unit (barring user error). I bought a new Colormunki Display a month ago and I have no issues with any tints on grayscale calibrations. I've used it both on my Plasma and on my CCFL based LCD monitor (using X-Rite's correction files and with HCFR for my TV and dispcalGUI for my monitor) and have been extremely happy with it. The i1d3 is supposed to be the same hardware so no sense going for one over your colormunki as any improvement is purely luck of the draw related. Calman/Spectracal is obviously nicer as they precalibrate it prior to shipping, but it is a lot more expensive.

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Originally Posted by gwgill View Post
The i1d2 and i1d3 use rather similar TAOS/AMS L2F sensors, and all these sensors have similar temperature specs (200 ppm/°C), and similar dark current vs. temperature graphs.
The main difference between the two is that the i1d3 has much better shaped filters, a lens to concentrate the light by a factor of 5, and is using a slightly more sensitive version of the sensor.
Neat. Nice to know Graeme. However, I know that Ryan has observed a signficant change in measurements between "cold" and "warm" conditions for his meter. On the other hand, I have not observed any such issues on my Colormunki Display. I've read elsewhere blurbs about the i1d3/Colormunki Display being temp compensated. Is this not true? My experience with it indicates that even if not temp compensated, there is very little variance between cold measurements and later once warmed up on a relatively warm plasma screen.
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
Are you using the X-Rite supplied correction files for LED displays in HCFR? You should first install the Colormunki Display drivers/software. HCFR via ArgyllCMS should automatically pick up the X-Rite supplied correction files and offer them as options in the dropdown menu when setting up a new calibration run.

If this still doesn't fix the issue, I'd say that you have a defective unit (barring user error). I bought a new Colormunki Display a month ago and I have no issues with any tints on grayscale calibrations. I've used it both on my Plasma and on my CCFL based LCD monitor (using X-Rite's correction files and with HCFR for my TV and dispcalGUI for my monitor) and have been extremely happy with it. The i1d3 is supposed to be the same hardware so no sense going for one over your colormunki as any improvement is purely luck of the draw related. Calman/Spectracal is obviously nicer as they precalibrate it prior to shipping, but it is a lot more expensive.
Would I even able to use it with HCFR without the X-rite software installed? I'll have to double check.

It was working fine just a couple of weeks ago, using the same software with the same correction file on the same computer but it was calibrating a different TV which is why I'm wondering if the correction files are no longer appropriate for my new TV. Can a sealed unit like this just 'go bad' practically overnight? (I've had mine for almost 2 years.)
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Originally Posted by orion2001 View Post
However, I know that Ryan has observed a signficant change in measurements between "cold" and "warm" conditions for his meter. On the other hand, I have not observed any such issues on my Colormunki Display. I've read elsewhere blurbs about the i1d3/Colormunki Display being temp compensated. Is this not true?
My experience with it indicates that even if not temp compensated, there is very little variance between cold measurements and later once warmed up on a relatively warm plasma screen.
Well, it's hard to argue with practical experience, but in principle the i1d2 and i1d3 should be temperature compensated to a very similar degree, since they use sensors that are very similar in technology. (I personally haven't seen great temperature variations with the i1d2, unlike (say) an i1pro rev A-D.) The L2F sensors are almost always temperature compensated - that's one of the two main reasons they get picked for low cost colorimeters. Technically I'd guess that they have a dummy covered sensor on the silicon that balances out the current from the live sensor.

Colorimeters that use raw sensors and an A/D (like the DTP92/94, Klein K10 etc.) typically have to have a thermometer and some sort of calibration table to be temperature compensated. Spectrometers have similar issues, although modern linear sensors typically have some dummy covered cells that can be used for compensation (ie. ColorMunki Photo and i1pro Rev E).
The JETI 1211 has a hardware shutter to do on the fly black references.
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Originally Posted by Geoff D View Post
Would I even able to use it with HCFR without the X-rite software installed?
You can load the calibrations direct from the CD or install .exe using oeminst.
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Thanks Graeme, that's some great information to file away in the back of my mind. I wonder why none of them stick an integrated thermoelectric cooler into their photodiode packaging for easy mitigation of temperature induced drifts. I don't believe it adds too much to costs. Perhaps it is due to the added power draw as that might require the meter to have batteries.
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