2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread

Hello Everyone, I started this thread so that we could share our calibration experiences and settings. Please keep posts here about calibration. If you have technical questions please post them in this link http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post42679898
Below I will post calibration settings from various users that have posted them. If you update them please edit original posts so the links line up with your current settings. Thank You!

Reduce Blur
In order to get Reduce Motion Blur to work, Reduce Judder must be set to at least 1.

Calibration Info From Matt
Similar architecture... the thought process is that you use CMS to dial in the panel to the target color temp etc. This is something you would not want changing input to input as you are dialing in your specific panel. Then all other picture controls will give you further control from that calibrated base line are input specific.

The color temps are:
Normal: D65
Computer: 9300K
Cool: S curve

FALD on/off for calibration info from Matt
We factory calibrate to Gamma 2.2 with FALD off. Turning it on can have a small effect but not much (Gamma will stay between 2.2-2.3). If you then went into Gamma settings and changed from the preset 2.2 to 2.4 you would get something extremely close to BT1886. Then adjustments in the 11 point for 40 IRE and below can refine it further.

We have also found that FALD is probably the best way to calibrate SDR.

Dolby Vision calibration is supposed to be done with 10% Windows and FALD on.

Dolby Vision Settings And Info
Set the Picture Mode to CALIBRATED DARK while playing your first DolbyVision title. From here on out, when a DolbyVision UHD source is detected and playing, the Picture Mode switches to Calibrated Dark and it's settings automatically to change to the default values. The real DV processing is happening "under the sheets". The impact of changing these settings while DV is engaged is a bit unclear and reports are varied. Every display that that has the ability to display DV has a "Golden Reference". The Golden Reference allows the mastered, graded DV film to display precisely on a DV enabled monitor. For this reason I suggest NOT altering the Calibrated Dark picture mode while DV is engaged. The color values, brightness and black level are being repeated on your home display virtually identically to the way the films creators viewed it during the final mastering process. By all means, do what you want. It's your TV. The interplay of the picture mode controls while DV is engaged is just not entirely understood at this time. We do know that changing backlight, for instance, has no affect on peak white, but rather impacts the midtown luminance curve.


P75-C1 Settings
shoman94 2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread

thomasfxlt 2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread

P65-C1 Settings
beardontwalk123 2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread (Rec. 709)
beardontwalk123 2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread (Dolby Vision)
ChadEDunham 2016 Vizio P Series Calibration Thread

P55-C1 Settings
DisplayCalNoob http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2396954-2016-vizio-p-series-calibration-thread-post43867730.html


P50-C1 Settings
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Last edited by beardontwalk123; 06-25-2016 at 08:09 PM.
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post #2 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 04:27 PM
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Samsung 55ES8000
Vizio 70 P Series, Calibration settings
CalMAN 5 Novice Walkthrough
Denon X4200, 5.1.4 setup
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post #3 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 04:31 PM
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REC.709 & Dolby Vision

Adjustments done using xRite i1Display Pro with CalMAN Enthusiast.

Every screen is a little different so use at your own doing.

FIRMWARE: 1.1.14.4(UPDATED 7/10/2016)
BG LED display setting
REC-709 w/bt.1886 Gamma Effective
FALD off, 10% window
White: 125cd/m²(nits)

I'm loving this!!

Picture Mode: Start with Calibrated Dark then save your own...
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: Set the backlight to your preference. It doesn't effect calibration.
Set to 15 [125nits] for Night(No Lights), 50 Night (Ambient Light), 100 (Day light, I have 2 windows and 2 skylights in my living room.)
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 20

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: low
Reduce Block Noise: medium
Game Low Latency: Off -- On for Gaming
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.4 or 2.2 for Day PIC Mode

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue:
Red: 4
Green: -6
Blue: -6
Cyan: 2
Magenta: -3
Yellow: -6


Saturation
Red: -3
Green: -11
Blue: -2
Cyan: -9
Magenta: -10
Yellow: -3

Brightness
Red: 0
Green: 3
Blue: 3
Cyan: 1
Magenta: 3
Yellow: 0

Offset
Red: -4
Green: 0
Blue: -4

Gain
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: -30

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5%
50,50,9

10%
47,42,30

20%
22,21,23

30%
19,19,20

40%
14,14,17

50%
10,10,14

60%
6,6,10

70%
3,2,9

80%
3,1,4

90%
-1,-1,-5

100%
0,0,2

================================================== ================================================

Dolby Vision HDR Settings(UPDATED 7/10/2016)
FIRMWARE: 1.1.14.4
BG LED display setting
Dolby Vision EOTF
FALD ON
Gamma 2.2
Full Screen: 609nits
10% window: 513nits
Black: 0.004nits


Picture Mode:Calibrated/Calibrated Dark (Factory)
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: Default
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 20

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.0/2.2

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue:
Red: 9
Green: -7
Blue: 7
Cyan: 0
Magenta: -5
Yellow: -2

Saturation
Red: -13
Green: -11
Blue: -4
Cyan: -50
Magenta: -8
Yellow: -5

Brightness
Red: 2
Green: 8
Blue: 0
Cyan: 17
Magenta: -6
Yellow: 0

Offset
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0

Gain
Red: 39
Green: 47
Blue: 0

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5%
-8,3,22

10%
-13,-6,8

20%
-7,-6,-1

30%
-11,-8,-6

40%
-13,-10,-6

50%
-14,-11,-7

60%
-8,-8,-3

70%
-5,-6,-1

80%
-1,-3,1

90%
0,-4,-1

100%
0,25,30
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.
Vizio P75-C1 (fw-1.1.14.4)(CV-1.18.60081), Pioneer Kuro 5020
Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH
XBox One
TiVo Roamio OTA, TiVo Mini, Antennas Direct DB4e w/Dipole OTA antenna

Last edited by shoman94; 07-09-2016 at 11:44 PM.
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post #4 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 04:40 PM
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Thank you for starting this! the owners thread is moving too fast. Finding this info was stressful
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post #5 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 04:44 PM
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Updated 4/27/16
Calibrated with Spectracal C3 (Colormunki Smile) + HCFR v3.4.0

Focused on getting accurate grayscale + BT.1886 gamma, and left CMS controls at default

HCFR with CCast generator is incredibly easy to use with this TV

Generator configuration: 18% image area with 18% APL. Related, I kept local dimming ON.

Sensor configuration: My C3 was understandably the biggest issue. It does not register at all for 0% black. To get the BT.1886 gamma to properly set targets, I had to manually enter a value. I chose 0.02 cd/m^2. It took me a little while to figure this out.

Readings: Measurement precision was not great. I used longer latency time and measurements and it worked ok. I found it best to use continuous measurements, wait for a bit of stabilization after adjustments were made, and 'average' a few readings in my head. I'm a dope and didn't use the average measurements feature on HCFR. I'll do that next time.
One other little thing I found - the readings changed slightly when the setting change notification appeared / disappeared at the top of the display - perhaps due to local dimming compensating. As I got more dialed in, I had to be patient and wait for notification to disappear.

Picture Mode: Calibrated Dark
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 18
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 10

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.4

---Color Calibration---

Offset
Red: 1
Green: 0
Blue: 2

Gain
Red: -20
Green: 0
Blue: -24

11-point
5%: -4, 10, -18
10%: -4, 2, -3
20%: -10, -8, -8
30%: 8, 4, 3
40%: 1, 2, 4
50%: -3, -6, -3
60%: -20, -23, -20
70%: 1, -6, -5
80%: 0, -9, -6
90%: 2, -2, 0
100%: 20, 0, 6
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Last edited by k124; 04-27-2016 at 05:02 PM.
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post #6 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k124 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
Hello Everyone, I started this thread so that we could share our calibration experiences and settings. The 2014 P Series was tough to calibrate and I want to make sure we don't clutter up the owners thread so please keep posts here about calibration. I will start by posting my settings.


Here is my Calibration for the P65-C1. I calibrated to BT.1886 and Rec. 709 with light output of 40fL or 137cd/m2 with ALZ off, and I turned it back on after Calibration. The 2pt Calibation brought everything in the 11pt sweep below deltaE of 3. Usually you don't want to copy 11pt settings anyway. I had gotten everything great with CMS but then when I went to watch actual shows the skin tone was awful so I left CMS at default for now until some bugs get worked out. In order to get Reduce Motion Blur to work, Reduce Judder must be set to at least one. That is another little bug that I see getting fixed in the future.

Picture Mode: Calibrated Dark
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 14
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1
Reduce Motion Blur: 10
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.4

---Color Calibration---

Offset
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0

Gain
Red: 0
Green: -9
Blue: -22
I have read that you are not supposed to adjust the Green setting. Is this untrue?
I thought that also.....Calman says to measure to the lowest measured color.....which in my case was Red. I am open to other opinions on this.
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post #7 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 04:55 PM
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65" Gamma 2.2 calibration

I calibrated my 65P today with Color HCFR and an i1DisplayPro probe. Here are the settings I wound up with, targeting a max brightness of Y=120.

Mode: Calibrated Dark
Auto Brightness: Off
Backlight: 12
Brightness, Contrast, Color : 50
Sharpness, Tint : 0
Color Temp: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED: Off for calibration, on for viewing
Reduce Judder, Reduce Motion Blur: 5
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise, Reduce Block Noise: Off or Low, depending on source
Game Low Latency: Off
Film Mode, Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.1
Offset - Red: 4
Offset - Green: 0
Offset - Blue: -5
Gain - Red: -9
Gain - Green: 0
Gain - Blue: 2

To get a better gamma curve, with better RGB balance, I adjusted all three colors on the 11-point calibration. Green is the color that makes up the most luminance, so I adjusted Green for every step in order to get close to the target luminance, then adjusted Red and Blue to balance the colors.

Here are the graphs that I wound up with:
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post #8 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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P65-C1 Calibration Settings - Firmware 1.1.14.4

Here is my Calibration for the P65-C1. I calibrated to REC. 709 and BT.1886 gamma with ALZ off. 2.2 gamma actually had less error for me so I used that to get BT.1886 In order to get Reduce Motion Blur to work, Reduce Judder must be set to at least 1. This is a little bug that I see getting fixed in the future. CMS doesn't calibrate the best so I left it alone.....it's great as is though! I reached out to Chad B. who is a well known calibrator and he said to Calibrate these sets with FALD off and to put .01 for the Black Level manually to help with Shadow Detail, so the contrast ratio is not correct on the chart.....it looks amazing! Graphs Below.

Picture Mode: Calibrated Dark
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 10 for 120 cd/m2 (can be set to whatever without ruining calibration)
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1
Reduce Motion Blur: 10
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2

---Color Calibration---

Offset
Red: -1
Green: 0
Blue: -3

Gain
Red: -2
Green: 0
Blue: -23

11-point white balance:
[Red, Green and Blue gain]
5%: 31, 26, 14
10%: 3, 0, 5
20%: -7, -6, -4
30%: -10, -10, -9
40%: -17, -17, -14
50%: -19, -14, -18
60%: -22, -14, -17
70%: -16, -17, -18
80%: -16, -15, -15
90%: -12, -10, -14
100%: 0, 0, 0
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Last edited by beardontwalk123; 06-04-2016 at 03:50 PM.
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post #9 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 06:25 PM
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Can anyone point me to a good walkthrough for doing a calibration with HCFR..

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
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post #10 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k124 View Post
I have read that you are not supposed to adjust the Green setting. Is this untrue?
It use to be true, when many sets would suffer from green push.
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post #11 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 07:29 PM
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I am a novice at calibration so i have a question that I've been wondering about or a while. I calibrated my 65p the other day, and during the color management portion of Calman I'm curious about the CIE 1931xy graph. So since this set has LCH, I'm assuming you ignore the RBG graph, and use the LCH graphs for your adjustments. What I'm curious about is the DeltaE the only thing you should worry about, or should you sacrifice some DeltaE to get the CIE 1931xy dots to move into the Squares for each color? Or does that graph not matter at all and DeltaE is the only thing I should worry about? I've always wondered about that during the CMS portion.
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post #12 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slippery44 View Post
I am a novice at calibration so i have a question that I've been wondering about or a while. I calibrated my 65p the other day, and during the color management portion of Calman I'm curious about the CIE 1931xy graph. So since this set has LCH, I'm assuming you ignore the RBG graph, and use the LCH graphs for your adjustments. What I'm curious about is the DeltaE the only thing you should worry about, or should you sacrifice some DeltaE to get the CIE 1931xy dots to move into the Squares for each color? Or does that graph not matter at all and DeltaE is the only thing I should worry about? I've always wondered about that during the CMS portion.
Are you talking about the saturation points,(0, 25, 50, 75) or just 75, which would be the only visible squares on the CIE chart?

What you want, is all saturation points across the gamut. That affects many of most common colors used.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisplayCalNoob View Post
Are you talking about the saturation points,(0, 25, 50, 75) or just 75, which would be the only visible squares on the CIE chart?

What you want, is all saturation points across the gamut. That affects many of most common colors used.
In Calman Advanced Home advanced workflow, the section where you 'adjust Color Management System'. I'm assuming that the color patterns for the primary and secondary colors are all 75%, as you adjust them you can get a lower DeltaE value on the one graph while in turn move the dot farther away from it's target on the CIE chart. I was curious if being in the target zone was more important than having a lower deltaE. Not a huge deal, I was just always curious if one was more important than the other. Or if they were equally important.
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post #14 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 08:00 PM
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Now that I've sat here and thought about it, I think I may have answered my own question. You know it could be that the DeltaE is lower with the dot being farther away because the CIE graph is only 2 dimensional and you're actually measuring a Z axis too. So while it may 'seem' closer on the graph displayed, it's actually not because the DeltaH is actually further that isn't displayed on that CIE graph. So probably lower detaE is the most important.
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post #15 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadEDunham View Post
targeting a max brightness of Y=120
What do you all think about this?

I recognize that we are mainly discussing Rec. 709 signals and not HDR, but this display is all about extreme contrast, etc.

How important is it to account for luminance in grayscale calibration?

What target should we be using for this display?

I'd imagine it depends on viewing environment a lot as well, yes/no?
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post #16 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 08:09 PM
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There seems to be quite a difference between the 65in and 75in displays.
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post #17 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k124 View Post
I have read that you are not supposed to adjust the Green setting. Is this untrue?
its not necessarily harmful but it is somewhat pointless. Green is most of the light output, so with 2pt controls changing green offset is more or less equivalent to adjusting the brightness control, while changing green gain is roughly equivalent to changing the contrast control.

You should use 2pt red and blue adjustments to bring white into balance, and set brightness and contrast to set black and white level.

In 10pt controls you can use green to adjust the gamma curve. I do a 2pass process. First pass use only red and blue to balance 10pt controls. Then i need to modify gamma curve adjust green to fit, and finally make minor red and blue adjustments to balance
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Calibrated settings for: Sony x930d (update: 4/8/16) | LG 65EF9500
4k60hz fanless HTPC build
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post #18 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k124 View Post
What do you all think about this?

I recognize that we are mainly discussing Rec. 709 signals and not HDR, but this display is all about extreme contrast, etc.

How important is it to account for luminance in grayscale calibration?

What target should we be using for this display?

I'd imagine it depends on viewing environment a lot as well, yes/no?
Well when I calibrated mine at 50% I bumped the Backlight to 100% after and rechecked 11pt GS and it was unchanged. then I did the same down to 15% which gave me around 130nit at 100% and again the 11pt balance was unchanged.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings.
Vizio P75-C1 (fw-1.1.14.4)(CV-1.18.60081), Pioneer Kuro 5020
Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH
XBox One
TiVo Roamio OTA, TiVo Mini, Antennas Direct DB4e w/Dipole OTA antenna
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post #19 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by shoman94 View Post
Well when I calibrated mine at 50% I bumped the Backlight to 100% after and rechecked 11pt GS and it was unchanged. then I did the same down to 15% which gave me around 130nit at 100% and again the 11pt balance was unchanged.
The fact that greyscale didn't change, seems to point to part of why HDR works. What nits did the meter read with backlight at 100%?
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post #20 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 09:36 PM
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The fact that greyscale didn't change, seems to point to part of why HDR works. What nits did the meter read with backlight at 100%?
It was in the 500's but I don't remember the exact number I wanna say mid 500's.

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post #21 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 09:44 PM
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The Delta E's on color look surprisingly poor. The CIE chart shows greens to be clearly skewed off from all saturation targets.

Is it not possible to adjust the CMS on this set to get these under 1.5?
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post #22 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 09:49 PM
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The Delta E's on color look surprisingly poor. The CIE chart shows greens to be clearly skewed off from all saturation targets.

Is it not possible to adjust the CMS on this set to get these under 1.5?
It was recommended I should not touch them at the moment. But I do plan to read more about it and what to change to adjust them along with the impact on other settings they will have. Fwiw I'm a noob at this.

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post #23 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 09:52 PM
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The Delta E's on color look surprisingly poor. The CIE chart shows greens to be clearly skewed off from all saturation targets.

Is it not possible to adjust the CMS on this set to get these under 1.5?
It looks like the hue line is tracking towards DCI targets instead of rec709. Setting colorspace to "auto" may default to a wide color gamut target.


source: spectracal
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post #24 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 10:01 PM
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It looks like the hue line is tracking towards DCI targets instead of rec709. Setting colorspace to "auto" may default to a wide color gamut target.


source: spectracal
Could that be a reason as to why I feel like all my colors seem to pop? They look so real.....

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post #25 of 1307 Old 04-10-2016, 10:11 PM
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Could that be a reason as to why I feel like all my colors seem to pop? They look so real.....

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Perhaps, but it's not accurate... The only time you should be using P3 or 2020 color space is for HDR content which is mastered that way. For everything else, rec709 is the only accurate way.

Would love to see a CIE diagram and dE chart for primary/secondary colors with the color space set to rec 709.
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post #26 of 1307 Old 04-11-2016, 03:29 AM
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Perhaps, but it's not accurate... The only time you should be using P3 or 2020 color space is for HDR content which is mastered that way. For everything else, rec709 is the only accurate way.

Would love to see a CIE diagram and dE chart for primary/secondary colors with the color space set to rec 709.
The colors are in no way unrealistic to me. Everything looks so real to me that's why I said it pops.
The HCFR software is configured to REC 709. Also P3 is not ENABLED on the tv. It's set to Auto which is YCbCr. The triangle is what it is. The colors likely need some fine tuning but at the moment that's going to take some understanding by me before I make those adjustments. More so the actual adjustments I should be using and what other aspects of the calibration it's going to effect.

Edit ; Does it matter that I'm using my laptop to send the colors thru HDMI to the Display from the HCFR software? Does the output from the laptop need to be set a certain way?

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post #27 of 1307 Old 04-11-2016, 03:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Your dots should be getting closer to your target square as you lower deltaE with LCH or your Luminance, Saturation and Hue. Hope that helps.
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post #28 of 1307 Old 04-11-2016, 05:03 AM
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Your dots should be getting closer to your target square as you lower deltaE with LCH or your Luminance, Saturation and Hue. Hope that helps.
I understand that the targets need to be in the box but as an example which setting should be adjusted to just green. Then after that setting is made, what other adjustment would likely be needed because of it?

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Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH
XBox One
TiVo Roamio OTA, TiVo Mini, Antennas Direct DB4e w/Dipole OTA antenna

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post #29 of 1307 Old 04-11-2016, 06:19 AM
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The colors are in no way unrealistic to me. Everything looks so real to me that's why I said it pops.
That's the thing, humans are very bad at telling the difference between accurate colors and inaccurate colors without a meter. While you might think it "looks so real", if it has a deltaE of 3, it is a color shift error. There the only color information on a Bluray or 1080p video feed is inside the rec709 CIE triangle. The capture here shows the colors being rendered outside of that triangle, and with a shift on angle as you get farther away from grey.

There's no magic that allows a screen with a WCG to guess what colors were originally there that were removed in the production process, nor any way to infer what the director intended if the gamut had been larger. The point of calibration is to have the screen show the image exactly as intended by the director.

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Edit ; Does it matter that I'm using my laptop to send the colors thru HDMI to the Display from the HCFR software? Does the output from the laptop need to be set a certain way?

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Yes, that can make a difference. Computer graphics cards tend to introduce their own color error. It would be more accurate if you used the option to have the test pattern source be a "DVD" in the software, and then use the AVS709 patterns from this thread: AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration

You would need to either burn these to a DVD or Bluray and use a bluray player, or copy the .mp4 files to a thumb drive and have some device that is capable of playing it handle it, or stream it to the TV using Chromecast or AppleTV or something of that nature. Be careful to make sure that any streaming software you use passes the video along as "h.264 pass through", and doesn't re-encode the video, as again, that might introduce error.


Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to just give you hell about the screen -- I have been watching the P-Series thread with a lot of interest, and I checked one out at Best Buy. I don't own one, but I have no alleigance to Sony, Samsung and LG. It's clear that no matter the result of final calibration that the P-Series is a great screen at that price, and a huge step forward for Vizio. Excellent native contrast, good local dimming, a great concept for the remote control, etc. But that doesn't mean you should ignore what meters say as far as color accuracy. Rtings review had a similar problem -- high delta E on colors. If you compare it to calibration reports for Sony x930c/x940c (Rtings has one for the x930c), you can see that the delta E, even after calibration, is 2-3X higher on colors for the Vizio than for Sony or Samsung.

This is the AV *Science* forum, and this is the Calibration Sub-Forum. Calibration is not a matter of "making the image look the way you like!", Calibration is about making the image appear exactly has it was intended by the director.
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post #30 of 1307 Old 04-11-2016, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Your dots should be getting closer to your target square as you lower deltaE with LCH or your Luminance, Saturation and Hue. Hope that helps.
I understand that the targets need to be in the box but as an example which seeing should be adjusted to just skat green. Then after that setting is made, what other adjustment would likely be needed because of it?

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Sorry.....I meant to quote slippery44 when I posted.....
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