reserved

 

Is there no way to program 2 sets of calibration settings in and then flip back and forth between them? From what I gather it looks like the color tuner and 11 point balance is universal and applies to all settings (e.g. you can't have 2 sets of these values saved against different settings)

 

REC.709, Dolby Vision, HDR10

FIRMWARE: 5.0.14.1 (UPDATED 11/24/18)
BG LED display Profiled with ColorMunki Photo
D65 HD Rec.709 w/2.2 Gamma
FALD ON, 10% window, Constant APL
White: 125cd/m²(nits)


Picture Mode: Calibrated NoLights/Calibrated Dark/Calibrated
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 20/40/85
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50/50/55
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 5

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active Full Array: On
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Clear Action: Off, ON for GAME
Reduce Motion Judder: 0
Reduce motion Blur: 0
Game Low Latency: 0ff, ON for GAME
Film Mode: On
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2 (Calibrated NoLights, Calibrated Dark) 2.0 (Calibrated)

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue
Red: 3
Green: 0
Blue: -2
Cyan: 1
Magenta: 0
Yellow: -1

Saturation
Red: -4
Green: -5
Blue: -2
Cyan: 0
Magenta: -4
Yellow: -2

Brightness
Red: 2
Green: -2
Blue: 0
Cyan: -3
Magenta: 0
Yellow: 0

Offset
Red: -7
Green: 0
Blue: -4

Gain
Red: 0
Green: 11
Blue: 0

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5% 27,10,32

10% -10,-13,10

20% -4,-2,-2

30% 8,3,5

40% 12,2,8

50% 0,7,7

60% -5,1,3

70% 5,3,4

80% 2,1,1

90% 0,-2,-5

100% 15,-1,-7


================================================== ===================================


Dolby Vision HDR Settings(UPDATED 11/24/18)
FIRMWARE: 5.0.14.1
BG LED display setting Profiled with ColorMunki Photo
BT.2020 Colorspace / Dolby Vision P75 EOTF
FALD ON
Gamma 2.2
10% window Constant APL

Picture Mode:Calibrated Dark/Calibrated

Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 30
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50/55
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 5

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active Full Array: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Film Mode: On
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2/2.0 (Calibrated Dark/Calibrated)

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue:
Red: -3
Green: 10
Blue: -4
Cyan: -2
Magenta: 6
Yellow: -5

Saturation
Red: 5
Green: 0
Blue: -6
Cyan: 10
Magenta: 0
Yellow: -2

Brightness
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0
Cyan: 0
Magenta: 0
Yellow: 0

Offset
Red: 0
Green:0
Blue: 0

Gain
Red: 20
Green: 37
Blue: 20

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5% 0,7,25

10% -5,4,10

20% -7,2,-3

30% 4,7,2

40% 15,8,7

50% 1,12,4

60% 5,13,6

70% 10,12,5

80% 0,0,0

90% 0,0,0

100% 0,-2,-5

================================================== ====================================

HDR-10 Settings(UPDATED 11/24/18)
FIRMWARE: 5.0.14.1
BG LED display setting Profiled with ColorMunki Photo
BT.2020 Colorspace / ST2084 HDR PQ
FALD ON
Gamma 2.2
10% window Constant APL


Picture Mode:Calibrated Dark/Calibrated
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 55
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 55/58
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 5

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active Full Array: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Film Mode: On
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2/2.0 (Calibrated Dark/Calibrated)

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue:
Red: 1
Green: 6
Blue: 0
Cyan: 0
Magenta: 0
Yellow: 3

Saturation
Red: -6
Green: 0
Blue: -4
Cyan: -6
Magenta: -5
Yellow: -3

Brightness
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0
Cyan: 0
Magenta: 0
Yellow: 0

Offset
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0

Gain
Red: 10
Green: 22
Blue: 0

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5% -7,0,-5

10% -23,0,4

20% -14,0,-11

30% -9,2,-7

40% -4,0,-5

50% -12,9,-3

60% -15,12,0

70% -10,10,0

80% -14,12,3

90% 0,13,0

100% 0,0,0

 

Adjustments done using xRite i1Display Pro with CalMAN Enthusiast.

Every screen is a little different so use at your own doing.

FIRMWARE: 1.1.14.4(UPDATED 5/27/2016)
BG LED display setting
REC-709 w/bt.1886 Gamma Effective
FALD off, APL 45, 9% window
White: 125cd/m?(nits)

I'm loving this!!

Picture Mode: Start with Calibrated Dark then save your own...
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: Set the backlight to your preference. It doesn't effect calibration.
Set to 15 [125nits] for Night(No Lights), 50 Night (Ambient Light), 100 (Day light, I have 2 windows and 2 skylights in my living room.)
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 15

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1
Reduce Motion Blur: 10
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: low
Reduce Block Noise: medium
Game Low Latency: Off -- On for Gaming
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.4

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue:
Red: 3
Green: -4
Blue: -3
Cyan: 3
Magenta: -3
Yellow: -4


Saturation
Red: -3
Green: -7
Blue: -2
Cyan: -1
Magenta: -10
Yellow: 0

Brightness
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0
Cyan: 0
Magenta: 3
Yellow: -2

Offset
Red: -4
Green: 0
Blue: -4

Gain
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: -30

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5%
50,50,9

10%
43,38,27

20%
19,18,19

30%
16,16,17

40%
12,12,15

50%
9,9,13

60%
8,8,12

70%
5,4,12

80%
5,5,8

90%
3,2,2

100%
0,0,2

==================================================================================================

Dolby Vision HDR Settings(UPDATED 6/01/2016)
FIRMWARE: 1.1.14.4
BG LED display setting
Dolby Vision EOTF
FALD ON
Gamma 2.2
Full Screen: 611nits
10% window: 512nits
Black: 0.004nits


Picture Mode:Calibrated/Calibrated Dark (Factory)
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: Default
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 20

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Default
Reduce Block Noise: Default
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.1/2.2

---Color Calibration---

Color Tuner:

Hue:
Red: 6
Green: -10
Blue: 4
Cyan: 0
Magenta: -6
Yellow: -1


Saturation
Red: -11
Green: -12
Blue: 0
Cyan: 0
Magenta: -3
Yellow: 10

Brightness
Red: -8
Green: 15
Blue: 0
Cyan: 0
Magenta: 0
Yellow: 2

Offset
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0

Gain
Red: 39
Green: 47
Blue: 0

11 Point White Balance: Listed as R,G,B

5%
-12,-4,10

10%
-11,-6,7

20%
-8,-6,-4

30%
-8,-7,-5

40%
-12,-10,-7

50%
-13,-10,-7

60%
-11,-9,-8

70%
-2,-2,5

80%
-3,-5,1

90%
-2,3,2

100%
50,16,24

I've been patiently waiting to receive the latest fw update so I can try out your DV calibrated settings. I got the update yesterday and updated your previous FW settings for regular viewing and I love your settings they look fantastic. I just have a few questions about how to apply the calibrated DV settings. I'm assuming I calibrate either CD or calibrated and once the Dolby vision movie starts do I then switch to that picture setting or do I apply the setting before I start the movie? And whatever picture setting I choose to use for DV will that then only be designated for DV or can I still use it to watch regular programming? Or will that look bad since its calibrated for DV? Thanks for any advice and input you can provide.

 

Thank you for starting this! the owners thread is moving too fast. Finding this info was stressful

 

Updated 3/5/17
P65 w/ firmware 3.0.14.0
Sensor: Colormunki Display
Software: HCFR v3.4.2
Generator for Grayscale & Color Saturation: AVS HD709, MP4s on USB w/ Roku Ultra - note: Enable use of round-down values on HCFR
Generator for Color checker: Ted's Lightspace MP4's via Roku

I much prefer this set with flat gamma vs. BT.1886.
I targeted 2.22 power law.
I am thrilled with current results.

Settings:
Backlight: 14
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Gamma: 2.2

All values (R,G,B)
Offset: (-8,0,1)
Gain: (-1,0,1)
5%: (20,0,-40)
10%: (11,12,0)
20%: (2,6,2)
30%: (2,8,5)
40%: (-4,7,3)
50%: (-9,-3,-2)
60%: (-12,0,-2)
70%: (-3,12,6)
80%: (4,14,10)
90%: (-3,5,5)
100%: (-7,1,3)

CMS: (r,g,b,c,m,y)
Hue: (1,1,-4,0,-1,-2)
Sat: (-2,-2,0,2,-6,-3)
Brightness: (0,0,0,1,0,1)

Got me to:
Grayscale dE: 0.19/0.38 [CIE76(uv)] [Absolute Y w/o gamma]
Colorchecker dE: 0.82/2.21



HDR10:
Used free grayscale patterns from Masciola and played via Roku Ultra.
I found that the 50% works, but rest of 11-pt do not. Still, it let me dial things in much better than with just 2-pt. I wonder if this would help w/ others that have been adjusting the backlight for mid-ranges?
Offset (-3,0,2)
Gain (-7,0,-11)

5 (adjusts ~10) (-7,0,-18)
10 (adjusts ~20) (-1,0,12)
20 (adjusts ~30) (-3,0,2)
30 (adjusts ~40) (-10,0,0)
40 (adjusts ~50) (-12,0,-4)
60 (adjusts ~60) (-10,0,-4)

 

I have read that you are not supposed to adjust the Green setting. Is this untrue?

It use to be true, when many sets would suffer from green push.

 

Hello Everyone, I started this thread so that we could share our calibration experiences and settings. The 2014 P Series was tough to calibrate and I want to make sure we don't clutter up the owners thread so please keep posts here about calibration. I will start by posting my settings.


Here is my Calibration for the P65-C1. I calibrated to BT.1886 and Rec. 709 with light output of 40fL or 137cd/m2 with ALZ off, and I turned it back on after Calibration. The 2pt Calibation brought everything in the 11pt sweep below deltaE of 3. Usually you don't want to copy 11pt settings anyway. I had gotten everything great with CMS but then when I went to watch actual shows the skin tone was awful so I left CMS at default for now until some bugs get worked out. In order to get Reduce Motion Blur to work, Reduce Judder must be set to at least one. That is another little bug that I see getting fixed in the future.

Picture Mode: Calibrated Dark
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 14
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--More Picture---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1
Reduce Motion Blur: 10
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Picture Size: [no change]
Picture Position: [no change]
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.4

---Color Calibration---

Offset
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 0

Gain
Red: 0
Green: -9
Blue: -22

I have read that you are not supposed to adjust the Green setting. Is this untrue?

I thought that also.....Calman says to measure to the lowest measured color.....which in my case was Red. I am open to other opinions on this.

 

65" Gamma 2.2 calibration

I calibrated my 65P today with Color HCFR and an i1DisplayPro probe. Here are the settings I wound up with, targeting a max brightness of Y=120.

Updated, 10/18/2016, for firmware 2.2.7.4 and BT1886 gamma

Mode: Calibrated Dark
Auto Brightness: Off for calibration. I have been using it for regular viewing and enjoy it. Like manually adjusting backlight for the viewing environment, it doesn't seem to affect the calibration.
Backlight: 12 for Y=120. Disabled if using Auto Brightness control.
Brightness, Contrast, Color : 50
Sharpness: 20. I didn't evaluate sharpness with a test pattern. It is likely too high out of the box.
Tint : 0
Color Temp: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED: Off for calibration, on for viewing
Reduce Judder, Reduce Motion Blur: Off
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise, Reduce Block Noise: Off or Low, depending on source
Game Low Latency: On.
Film Mode, Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.4
Offset - Red: 3
Offset - Green: 0
Offset - Blue: -1
Gain - Red: 5
Gain - Green: 0
Gain - Blue: 6

11-point adjustments (R / G / B):
5%: -7 / 41/ 11
10%: 21 / 28 / 12
20%: 13 / 17 / 13
30%: 9 / 7 / 5
40%: 12 / 10 / 10
50%: 7 / 5 / 8
60%: 7 / 10 / 7
70%: 8 / 10 / 8
80%: 8 / 10 / 8
90%: 9 / 9 / 9
100%: 0 / 0 / 0

 

targeting a max brightness of Y=120

What do you all think about this?

I recognize that we are mainly discussing Rec. 709 signals and not HDR, but this display is all about extreme contrast, etc.

How important is it to account for luminance in grayscale calibration?

What target should we be using for this display?

I'd imagine it depends on viewing environment a lot as well, yes/no?

 

SDR Calibration

Window Size - Full (FALD Off)
Gamma Target - BT.1886
Color Space - Rec.709
Firmware: 4.0.23.2

---Picture settings menu---
Picture Mode: Calibrated
Auto Brightness Control: Off
Backlight: 15 (140 nits)
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

--More Picture submenu---
Color temperature: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Xtreme Black Engine Pro: On
Reduce Judder: 0
Reduce Motion Blur: 10
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off
Reduce Block Noise: Off
Game Low Latency: Off
Pure Cinema: On
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2

---Color Calibration submenu---

Red Offset: -2
Red Gain: --19
Green Offset: 0
Green Gain: 0
Blue Offset: -6
Blue Gain: -20

11-point white balance:
[Red, Green and Blue Gain]
5%: 14, 20, 29
10%: 0, 3, 8
20%: -10, -4, -3
30%: -12, -9, -9
40%: -16, -15, -12
50%: -20, -8, -15
60%: -22, -10, -12
70%: -17, -12, -13
80%: -16, -9, -13
90%: -15, -9, -11
100%: -2, 0, 0

 

I calibrated to REC. 709 and BT.1886 gamma with ALZ off.

CMS doesn't calibrate the best so I left it alone

Backlight: 10 for 120 cd/m2

I'm a newbie who's not super tech-inclined trying to calibrate my P65 for 1080p content.

1.) Should I be turning FALD off? I didn't see where you have this option.

2.) What is ALZ? Again, I didn't see an option in the picture settings to turn it off.

3.) So CMS for Hue, Saturation, etc. everything set to 0?

4.) My backlight options are 0-100. What is 10 for 120 cd/m2 and where do I make these selections?

5.) Finally, how do I save a custom calibration setting? I was able to input the recommended numbers but it was saved under "Calibrated Dark*"

Thanks so much!

 

Can anyone point me to a good walkthrough for doing a calibration with HCFR..

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

I am a novice at calibration so i have a question that I've been wondering about or a while. I calibrated my 65p the other day, and during the color management portion of Calman I'm curious about the CIE 1931xy graph. So since this set has LCH, I'm assuming you ignore the RBG graph, and use the LCH graphs for your adjustments. What I'm curious about is the DeltaE the only thing you should worry about, or should you sacrifice some DeltaE to get the CIE 1931xy dots to move into the Squares for each color? Or does that graph not matter at all and DeltaE is the only thing I should worry about? I've always wondered about that during the CMS portion.

 

Are you talking about the saturation points,(0, 25, 50, 75) or just 75, which would be the only visible squares on the CIE chart?

What you want, is all saturation points across the gamut. That affects many of most common colors used.

 

Now that I've sat here and thought about it, I think I may have answered my own question. You know it could be that the DeltaE is lower with the dot being farther away because the CIE graph is only 2 dimensional and you're actually measuring a Z axis too. So while it may 'seem' closer on the graph displayed, it's actually not because the DeltaH is actually further that isn't displayed on that CIE graph. So probably lower detaE is the most important.

 

There seems to be quite a difference between the 65in and 75in displays.

 

The Delta E's on color look surprisingly poor. The CIE chart shows greens to be clearly skewed off from all saturation targets.

Is it not possible to adjust the CMS on this set to get these under 1.5?

 

It was recommended I should not touch them at the moment. But I do plan to read more about it and what to change to adjust them along with the impact on other settings they will have. Fwiw I'm a noob at this.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

 

Your dots should be getting closer to your target square as you lower deltaE with LCH or your Luminance, Saturation and Hue. Hope that helps.

 

I understand that the targets need to be in the box but as an example which setting should be adjusted to just green. Then after that setting is made, what other adjustment would likely be needed because of it?

Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

So @mpgxsvcd says we should not box ourselves into the REC 709 standard with this display. What do you guys think about that?
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...16-p-series-owners-thread-uhd-hdr-dv-no-price-talk-please-175.html#post43160458

 

I know I opened a can of worms with that statement but I strongly believe we need to take a look at how we blindly follow REC.709 as gospel when it is such a limiting factor.

 

The responses on green adjustments and luminance made sense, thank you. I have not had a chance to measure grayscale accuracy once calibrated vs. backlight strength. It is good to hear that it is holding accurate across dark to bright viewing modes, especially since there is only a single global CMS profile that cannot be saved and selected.

One additional question for now - Do you all recommend calibrating grayscale + color w/ 10% window pattern or 100% screen?

 

I use the ABL patterns on the AVSHD disc. Otherwise, 10% window patterns seem to be the norm.

 

P75 Calibration in Orange County CA

Not sure this is the right place for this question, but do you know of anyone that can properly calibrate my P75 in orange county, CA? I don't have the equipment or skills so I need help

 

It sounds like you cannot set the P to WCG in any mode other than DV, is that correct? That would be a real shame, especially for us 3D LUT users

 

No, you can only select RGB or YCbCr or Auto. Not really sure what Auto does whether it only switches between those two.

What I do with the 2015 M is leave Active LED enabled, but use the smallest possible window size in HCFR/madTPG (1%). A window this small does not trigger the local dimming, which means you can calibrate as if Active LED were set to disabled, but you account for any anomalies that it might bring with it. In my opinion, that is the best way. It's not an option for external patterns, like the AVS HD 709 disc, because it doesn't have windows that small. In addition to the 1% size, use a 100% white background.


The 2016 P might behave differently, so I welcome anyone's feedback.

Interesting... Can you put that window anywhere? When I did mine, even though I selected 100% the window was only about 25" diagonal in the top left. I used the Display as my extended desktop to my laptop screen.

 

Rec. 709 falls within the P3 gamut, right. Can't the display, display whats being fed to it?

How does it work when casting, I'm assuming the Cast input is calibrated to the P3 gamut. If so then any 1080p programming on NETFLIX or movies on Vudu are inaccurate when it comes to color?

 

I assume I can't use any of these calibration settings (e.g. the only way is to really have my set calibrated on its own)?

 

You can likely copy someone else's calibration settings for all values except for the 11-point, and get somewhat closer to accurate than out-of-box. In general, it looks like the white balance is heavy on Green and Blue on everyone's screens to varying degrees, so turning that down will get it closer to correct. 11-point's are going to be completely different from one screen to the next, so you shouldn't bother copying those.

Adjusting Contrast/Brightness (White level/Black level) is easy to do without any specialized tools, and you should just do that yourself.

These youtube videos may not be 100% accurate but they will be close enough.

Use these for adjusting white level -- you should be able to see 233 flash, with 235 not flash on white and all 3 colors. It is acceptable to allow numbers higher than 235 flash on some colors if necessary to allow all 3 colors to have at least 233 flash, but you should use the minimal setting that allows at least 233 flashing on all 3 colors:

Use this for adjusting black level: 16 Must not flash. 17-18 should flash but it is acceptable if they do not, it is more important that 16 does not flash. 19 Absolutely must flash. Most likely, you will be able to make it so 16 does not flash, but 17 does. This adjustment should be done in a very dark room, and it is acceptable for you to get right up on the screen to look for the minor light differences.

 

For regular SDR rec709/bt1886 calibration I got excellent results using 18% window patterns with FALD turned on. If you calibrate with it turned off and then turn it on you'll get vastly different results than if you calibrated with it on.

 

Hey Tyler! Would the equal energy patterns from Spears and Munsil work good with FALD on? There is a pretty big difference between on and off but I was worried I will mess up the FALD by calibrating with it on.....I feel like the FALD stands in where it needs to based of our FALD off calibration results and that calibrating the set with it on would really mess with results......any input would be appreciated.

 

Spent some time on this tonight... way past my bed time. 5 am is coming fast.
CCast gave me a headache. I could only do Grayscale with it. Compared my HDMI and CCast on Grayscale and it was the same.

How does this look to the specialists...

I'll update my post in my sig in the evening.

 

Although I'm not a specialist or a pro, I'd say that looks pretty damn good for the most important part of the gamut (75%).
How does the color checker look? As that's actually what really makes colors you see on the screen accurate.

 

What's the color checker... Lol?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

 

@shoman94
It is the 2nd from last in the View drop down box. (where you select grey scale and primaries).

 

Probably one of the only things I didn't run... Lol. I'd have to set the meter back up for that. Not sure if that will happen today/tonight. I have a bunch of other graphs I'll be posting though.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

 

Hi Henry! Someone in another thread is basically saying that the "P" series is the only "future proof" tv offered today. Thoughts on that?

 

Otto, my man! That's dangerous territory I'm a huge Vizio fan, and I love my M, but I'm holding off on the P for now for various reasons. I will buy one eventually, though.

 

Poor man's calibration with AVSHD 709 DVD

Hello all,
Fantastic thread first of all!

I tried to calibrate to Rec.709 (basic calibration) with just the AVSHD 709 DVD.
I'd appreciate it if you would be kind enough to share a few pointers:
For the white clipping should I stop when 235 flashes or let the higher numbers flash?
For the color and tint calibration I used the colour tuner to turn off Red and Green thereby mimicking a blue filter. Is this valid?
I noticed that I have to get the color to 61 and Tint to 1 to get the flashing rectangles to blend in.

Should I try and copy someone else's 2 pt grayscale as well?

Would really appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks

 

Hello all,
Fantastic thread first of all!

I tried to calibrate to Rec.709 (basic calibration) with just the AVSHD 709 DVD.
I'd appreciate it if you would be kind enough to share a few pointers:
For the white clipping should I stop when 235 flashes or let the higher numbers flash?
For the color and tint calibration I used the colour tuner to turn off Red and Green thereby mimicking a blue filter. Is this valid?
I noticed that I have to get the color to 61 and Tint to 1 to get the flashing rectangles to blend in.

Should I try and copy someone else's 2 pt grayscale as well?

Would really appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks

I personally wouldn't mess with the color tuner at all without a good color meter, that will work correctly with this TV.
Adjusting Brightness and Contrast is also not recommended, as the TV might clip.
I'd try some else's 2 pt greyscale. See if you like it better than default.
But really, with these TVs you really need to have a meter to get the best out of them. One the other hand, factory calibration is great from the get go, so I wouldn't say it's really that important.